Motul 300V 0W40 or M1 0W40?

[Brit33]

Originally Posted By: Popsy
Ok, thanks

Will try it, probably 7000Km OCI.


How much is it over there?

Here 5w30 300v goes for about 28 GBP x 2 litres.
Would love to try that again but the wife would kill me if she saw the price!

 

[Popsy]

Like 22-23€ for 2 litres for the 0W40, M1 0W40 is around 10€/L so not a huge difference.

The Colt takes only 3L so it's my excuse

http://www.lgmotorsport.fr/motul-huiles-300v,fr,3,1.cfm

 

[deven]

I have used Red Line oil(Esters)for 10,000 miles with no issues. The 300V has a better starting TBN than Red Line oil. Even though I am not sure about its TBN retention during its usage, I am still confident that it can do 10,000 KM's easily even with a 3 liter sump.

 

[Brit33]

Originally Posted By: deven
I have used Red Line oil(Esters)for 10,000 miles with no issues. The 300V has a better starting TBN than Red Line oil. Even though I am not sure about its TBN retention during its usage, I am still confident that it can do 10,000 KM's easily even with a 3 liter sump.


Red Line is expensive in the UK (and maybe France) here unfortunately. As much as if not more than the 300v.
I think Opie oils sell 1 US gallon for 55-60 GBP!!

 

[Popsy]

Red line is expensive here too, 1 US Gal for ~60€.

I'll use 300V!

 

[Jetronic]

which redline oil? most are quite loaded with additives, but the euro oils might be a bit lighter, I haven't looked into those.

 

[Popsy]

I haven't really looked into these oils, all are very expensive!

Also heard they have very high HTHS value so not sure about one to pick if I feel like trying someday.

 

[Jetronic]

I'd get the 10w30 unless youre expecting very cold starts.

 

[BrocLuno]

I'm not lucky in that I don't have a source of Motul 300 except by mail order - and it's pricey

But given that you only have 3L capacity, I'd go the best oil I could afford reasonably. For me, that would be Motul.

I have had real good luck with their oil in some applications where the motors are stressed pretty badly (Bikes) and never an incident

 

[B320i]

I would have to say the Motul if you can get it without too much hit to the back pocket.

In my experience, M1 was a very noisy oil. No consumption, just very noisy (very pronounced VANOS rattle, lifter tick) even though it was the correct grade for my BMW (M50).
The VANOS noise largely disappeared after a switch to a popular 5w40 Synthetic Diesel oil, while the lifters quietened down a little bit.

 

[Popsy]

This is what I saw the last time I opened the manual for an insight of oil choice. I only caught "229.1" and wide oil range selection according to temperature.


But then it says "except for Clear Tec" (basically 1,3 and 1,1L engines equipped with stop and start and 0W20 oil from factory), and "except turbo engines"...

Actually you have to go several pages further to find the correct graph for turbo engine (4G15T which is different from NA 1,5L engine), and then



Back in the eighties! Yes it is a 2010 car, and the manual is the one that came with it. I guess since the engine was created in the eighties and not that much modified (not talking about injection or ignition but strictly mechanically) since (major change is it went from timing chain to timing belt in 2010).

According to the manual, API SG and 20W40 grade sounds good. 10W30 like Jetronic said is good too (except it is the one grade I can't find here). 5W30 is tolerated in cold climates to ease starting at low temperatures, so I guess 300V should be ok too! I could even use 5W30 instead of xW40 grade.

I still have to imagine 10000Km (that's what the manual says) with mineral 15W40 and a 3L sump.

At the moment it runs fine and smooth with 300V 0W40, no tick or rattle or whatever (but there was none before)

HT but M1 0W40 is slightly noisier in my Barchetta (than previous 5W40), not cold nor warm but in between, slightly more variator noise. No lifters tick when cold, no variator noise when hot.

 

[dailydriver]

Originally Posted By: Popsy
At the moment it runs fine and smooth with 300V 0W40, no tick or rattle or whatever (but there was none before)

HT but M1 0W40 is slightly noisier in my Barchetta (than previous 5W40), not cold nor warm but in between, slightly more variator noise. No lifters tick when cold, no variator noise when hot.


I wonder if the above is due (primarily) to the high group 5/ester base stock content of the 300V, vs. the little to NONE ester content of the M1 0W-40's base stock, or something else completely?

There was some talk about this specific oil (the Trophy 300V 0W-40) shearing quicker than expected in high heat/racing/open tracking scenarios, especially in turbo boosted apps, but I CANNOT find the links, nor the threads about this topic (I am thinking about trying this oil at my next change).

Anyone have a link to this thread/info??

 

[Popsy]

I've read a lot of threads about trophy 0W40 but I don't remember seeing some talk about it shearing quickly. I guess it is to be expected from a 0W40 oil in harsh use though.

The Colt doesn't appears to be hard on oil, it sure has a turbo but fairly low pressure (mine is a 150hp only), doesn't run THAT hot, doesn't redline, and doesn't even have a timing chain anymore. Maybe the 3L sump isn't ridiculous after all.


I see you are currently using 0W30 oil, so Trophy 0W40 should be good for you, even if it shears to a 30 grade

 

[dparm]

300V 0w40 should be quite shear stable. Even if it does drop 10% (from HTHSV of 3.9 to 3.6), you're still holding at a light-40/heavy-30, which is well within the acceptable range.

 

[dailydriver]

Originally Posted By: dparm
300V 0w40 should be quite shear stable. Even if it does drop 10% (from HTHSV of 3.9 to 3.6), you're still holding at a light-40/heavy-30, which is well within the acceptable range.


Yes, this will be the next brew I try when I dump this PP Euro LX swill.

I may thin it out with a liter (5:1 ratio) of the 300V High RPM 0W-20, depending on the ambient temp trends when I do the change.

I already checked with Motul USA tech, and they said that the add packs are so similar between the two weights that there will be NO problems doing such (just like Dave at Red Line says about their street oils).

After that, the thick(er) RLI 0W-30 is the only other one I have the desire to try in this engine.

 

[lubricatosaurus]

Originally Posted By: Popsy
Time has passed, and I'm back with the same question... I'm doing an OC in the Colt tonight, and I'm still unsure of what to use. I have Motul 300V


Not only is Motul great oil, buying it supports the French. I'm serious. After all that France is going through with the Hebdo, Paris, nearby terrorist attacks, etc., we need to try to buy and use more French products. I put a small French flag in my rear window with the words "Nous sommes avec vous" to show solidarity. Buy French wine, cheese of course, now trying to figure out what else I can do.

 

[lubricatosaurus]

Buy Motul, and also Michelin tires, another French brand, are also some of the finest in that market. French brands, and they aren't making junk.

 

[chrisri]

I agree, French are nice people, and they can make high quality products when they wish to.
My Berlingo is close to 300k now, on original clutch! Pity my other one was POS.

 

[Popsy]

You can add Facom tools to the list

The keywords are "when they wish to"^^

 

[chrisri]

Yes, when you drink wine over lunch time on working days things can go both ways - brilliant or disastrous

Edit; Facom are some really nice tools, I have few items from them, top notch.