Mobil 1 advanced vs Pennzoil ultra platinum which cleans best!

ziggy said:
Lol I forgot I posted a thread!
Well for rings .I do know from what I've read,it's not easy for oil too clean piston rings. Like , would Mobil advanced also do a good amount of ring cleaning? I read another member here saying only Pennzoil n Mobil really know..but if anyone here would know or guess.
I don't have stuck rings...
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I wouldn’t think any oil is going to clean your piston rigs/lands/groves. Now could an a good prevent buildup in that part of the piston? I think some can more than others, but I wouldn’t expect any oil to be able to actually clean that area. I wouldn’t even trust many products that claim they can - I’m talking the piston soak stuff - in my experience once the rings are stuck, they’re staying stuck. The key is not to allow them to get stuck in the first place, and even that’s hard to do on some engines. Some engines are just poorly designed...and it doesn’t help when that poorly designed engine is also being extended on oil change intervals, or neglect. And then someone comes along and buys that car with 120,000 miles on it and thinks they’re going to cure abuse (and poor design) with an off the shelf Mobil1 or Pennzoil. It’s not happening, IMO.
 
In my Hyundai 2.4L DI (non - turbo) engine it has always had a steady diet of D1 / Gen 2 & 3 5W30 Synthetic oils at 4,000 mile / 6 months OCI's using decent oil filters + keeping a clean PCV valve . I'd like to think I keep a clean engine but just in case I pour in a bottle of Rislone engine treatment into the oil crank case to give the rings a little extra cleaning every few oil changes . Not sure how much cleaning it does but the Rislone smells very fruity / sweet which makes me think esters are part of the Rislone ingredients . For outright cleaning probably Mobil 1 FS 0W40 or one of the HPL synthetic oils would get my vote .
 
ziggy said:
As title says! Which would clean engine best!? I know ultra advertises up to 65% sludge carbon..but Mobil advanced dosnt market on bottle or website as glamorous.i know Mobil is not a real synthetic anymore. But...for cleaner engine,and pistons Pennzoil seems too have the additive advantage.
Thoughts,input?
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Either one will keep things clean. There is no “better” OR “BEST”
 
ziggy said:
I took interest in pennzoils advertising.ultra up too 65% cleaner pistons . Years ago,2004/5 I used Mobil 1 advanced one oil change.beater 95 neon I had. I don't remember to eframe maybe 3 weeks, it cleaned out the rear main seal . Puddle of fresh oil under it. I ve read up on advanced here,today,and the experts here are saying the PAO ,esters in advanced are gone today.except for 0w40. The advanced today is group 3 basically. So it seemedcl to me ultra had the better advertising and claim about cleaning an engine up
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“Up to 65% cleaner pistons” does NOT say the oil will clean any existing accumulation… just that from the point PUP is introduced in an engine, it MAY result in up to 65% fewer deposits than the competition SOPUS tested against.

Don’t take the marketing pitch at face value.
 
ford250 said:
most oils will do the job
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Ehhh…. Minimizing additional deposits, maybe. But in the US, there are probably less than one handful manufacturers with oils that will actually clean, with additives designed for cleaning (ANs and esters). To my knowledge, they are all under the Mobil 1 and HPL banners. There may be a select other few, but it’s not many.
 
demarpaint said:
Given the choice I'd go with the XOM product. Why? Because I have more confidence in XOM. As always opinions will vary.
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Totally agree. XOM is the clear choice of those two.
But an Ester based oil like HPL or Redline will easily clean better than a non Ester based oil.

I've actually taken a different route will engine cleanliness.

I use a low priced full synthetic with short 4k miles/ 6 month OCI's,
and I do an STP higly concentrated engine flush ($5.97 a bottle at Walmart)
with every oil change.
 
SubieRubyRoo said:
Ehhh…. Minimizing additional deposits, maybe. But in the US, there are probably less than one handful manufacturers with oils that will actually clean, with additives designed for cleaning (ANs and esters). To my knowledge, they are all under the Mobil 1 and HPL banners. There may be a select other few, but it’s not many.
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I’m most likely a lot older than you and I’ve torn down several motors thru the years and even back in the 70’s and 80’s that used just good ole mineral based oil that was changed on a regular bases and the engines were clean no sludge. So as good as oil is today if you change your oil ever 5K being clean want be an issue
 
ford250 said:
I’m most likely a lot older than you and I’ve torn down several motors thru the years and even back in the 70’s and 80’s that used just good ole mineral based oil that was changed on a regular bases and the engines were clean no sludge. So as good as oil is today if you change your oil ever 5K being clean want be an issue
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I think you’re misunderstanding my post. I’m certainly not arguing that short OCIs on even “run-of-the-mill” oils will result in dirty engines… quite the opposite. If the oil is not run past one of the many condemnation points that can be determined from UOAs (TBN, insolubles, oxidation, etc) it’s certainly possible for the engine to live a long, happy, clean life… similar to @dnewton3 ‘s experiences.

However, if the oils are run past their capabilities and start leaving deposits in an engine, mineral oils and even most synthetics can’t really clean varnish and coked leftovers. Those kinds of deposits require ANs and esters to chemically dissolve the deposits. 👍🏻
 
This thread is horrible. The original poster does not identify the engine, car, issue needing resolved. He posits a choice between two good oils. The responders recommend both, neither, STP cleaner and make some OCI recommendations. We get some comments on manufacturing and the vague idea that maybe these oils are closer to each other because of that. The OP is referred to some other posts and then is admonished for not reading them.
 
TomYoung said:
This thread is horrible. The original poster does not identify the engine, car, issue needing resolved. He posits a choice between two good oils. The responders recommend both, neither, STP cleaner and make some OCI recommendations. We get some comments on manufacturing and the vague idea that maybe these oils are closer to each other because of that. The OP is referred to some other posts and then is admonished for not reading them.
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Welcome to BITOG. 😁

I once started a thread here about 0w40 oil.
Being brand new to the forum, was unaware that was a controversial issue.
I'm now aware, and have my asbestos suit ready if I ever start a new oil thread lol
 
SubieRubyRoo said:
I think you’re misunderstanding my post. I’m certainly not arguing that short OCIs on even “run-of-the-mill” oils will result in dirty engines… quite the opposite. If the oil is not run past one of the many condemnation points that can be determined from UOAs (TBN, insolubles, oxidation, etc) it’s certainly possible for the engine to live a long, happy, clean life… similar to @dnewton3 ‘s experiences.

However, if the oils are run past their capabilities and start leaving deposits in an engine, mineral oils and even most synthetics can’t really clean varnish and coked leftovers. Those kinds of deposits require ANs and esters to chemically dissolve the deposits. 👍🏻
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I’m not misunderstanding at all
 
Last edited:
ford250 said:
I guess my point should have been
Clean engines just need proper care and regular oil changes and then there want be a need for an oil to clean up the mess left over by neglect
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With commodity oils there are always going to be some deposits. The API and ACEA sequences don't require surgical room cleanliness to be maintained, just a reasonable amount. This is why AN's and esters, in volumes that matter, are typically not included in these oils, blended at a price point. Doesn't mean you won't get great service life from the equipment or that the deposits will ultimately matter, but it does mean that if you were to tear it down, you will find some, particularly in the ring lands.
 
ford250 said:
I guess my point should have been
Clean engines just need proper care and regular oil changes and then there want be a need for an oil to clean up the mess left over by neglect
Click to expand...

The problem is the API standards for piston deposits, volatility, etc... are just too weak. Even if you change the oil every 3,000 miles, the accumulation of carbon deposits still happens with a fresh oil change the first couple times the oil gets hot and the light ends evaporate off. I've been inside several engines that had routine 3k mile oil changes like clockwork that had oil consumption, stuck rings, and sludge under the valve cover and in the oil pan. No consistent short tripping or extreme use, just daily commuter engines.
 
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