Mobil 1 0w30 2008 Chevy Cobalt 2.2L Ecotec

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Originally Posted By: IndyFan
Ok, help me understand shear. What viscosity range did it shear to? Even if it shears to a 20wt, doesn't 20 wt protect well enough? Does M1 0w20 not shear like 0w30? I'm asking because I'm going with 0w20 for my Jeep when it comes due for a change in approximately the next month. I'm also considering M1 0w30 for my Soltice, which won't need a change until fall.

Heck, I might even run 0w30 in the van.


The fact that this oil sheared solidly into the 20wt range and that a 20wt oil may be still provide adequate protection is not really the issue because the end result is not the same as a 0W-20 or even a 5W-20 oil. The 0W-30 will still have a higher start-up viscosity than the 20wt oils even after all that shearing. If a 40C vis test was also done then we would know more precisely how the oils start-up viscosity is being affected.

I have not seen a UOA of M1's 0W-20 or 5W-20 that has sheared any more than 10% including the effect of fuel dilution. Consiquently the OP would be better off going with a 20wt oil in the first place.
 
Originally Posted By: Steve S
Originally Posted By: kender
Originally Posted By: addyguy
Again, a completely pointless, short, wasteful OCI.

The GM OLM is calibrated to be run to 0% on DINO oil. It takes into account the driving conditions and temperature, so you don't have to drain it early b/c of weather conditions.

By using a quality synthetic, you GUARANTEE you can make it to 0% on the OLM.....but no, you second guessed both the OLM, and M1 blenders....you must be REALLY, REALLY smart to know more than they do, eh?

This is freakin' rediculous!!!!!


I can think of a whole lot more things in life to get upset about than how many miles are on someone elses car when they decide to change their oil!!
My wifes Mazda only gets about 5,000 miles a year. I change it every 4 months! What do you think of that? LOL!!!
That is what Bob Is The Oil Guy Is for!!! Where else in the world can someone go and get "ask for " criticized on the manor of their oil changing habits?


I think it's fine to tell someone "hey, you could have gone a lot longer with that oil". But to say stuff like this.....

"Again, a completely pointless, short, wasteful OCI".
"you must be REALLY, REALLY smart to know more than they do, eh?"
"This is freakin' rediculous!!!!!" his spelling, not mine (ridiculous)

....is freakin' ridiculous!!!!!

Then when he finds out the personal reasons for the "short" OCI, he say's that's ok then. "QUE COJONES!!!
I guess some people have "internet muscles"
I don't have many posts, but have been a member for a few years. And I was a lurker for a couple of years before that. As some have been saying this site is not what it once was. I still enjoy the UOA's, and the cut-open-filter pics. But some people really go overboard with their "agenda". They get "in your face" if you don't believe what they do. Whether it's synthetic oil, extended drains, a certain brand name oil, or filter, etc.

In the end it's just oil guys! In a short time your "baby" will be rusting away in the junkyard and you will have a new toy.

BTW, money was spent for this UOA. And the time was taken to post it for all of us to see.
 
Fine, I did get to worked up about it, or typed it as such.

This site 'used to be' about making sensible decision based on FACTS.

It isn't anymore, and I just have to accept that.

Consider this: If you bought a set of tires that were rated for 60k miles, would you replace them at 15k miles? Do you replace timing chains or belts every 20k? Do you replace air filters every 2k?

Of course you don't because they last much longer than that. Oil does too, but for some reason, on an oil site, we don't know that....?
 
Geez, I didn't think this short OCI would cause such an uproar. I don't really care about that, but I'm surprised none-the-less.

As far as being useful, information to see how a well-made 0w30 reacts over a short run is important with regards to shearing tendancies when it's run in a relatively high-revving engine like the Ecotec along with the supposed high wear rates that show up early in an oil's stint in service. Maybe I'm alone on this one, but I would love to see a 10-point data plot for every 1,000 miles on a UOA showing things like viscosities, wear metals, etc.

Every piece of data is useful whether it be a 10,000 mile OCI or a short one. I didn't think that you had a to be a scientist to realize that, but apparently that is not the case since opinions seem to be very important to people.
 
Originally Posted By: addyguy
Again, a completely pointless, short, wasteful OCI.

The GM OLM is calibrated to be run to 0% on DINO oil. It takes into account the driving conditions and temperature, so you don't have to drain it early b/c of weather conditions.

By using a quality synthetic, you GUARANTEE you can make it to 0% on the OLM.....but no, you second guessed both the OLM, and M1 blenders....you must be REALLY, REALLY smart to know more than they do, eh?

This is freakin' rediculous!!!!!


One reason I am here is to learn from others mistakes, or possibly their prudence.

I am planning to switch from Pennzoil YB to M1 and go longer than my current 3months/6 K in my Ecotec. I already put 5 w-30 M1 in my truck 3 months ago. I really wanted to go with 0W-30, but haven't found any around here. So yes, I am very happy to see this report.
 
The oil IMO did Shear quite a bit for so little fuel dilution, and the short miles it was driven. I would suggest another 30 grade oil if 30 grade is the oil the OP wants to use. Try another Mobil 1 product, or switch brands completely. JMO
 
Originally Posted By: Nyquist
Geez, I didn't think this short OCI would cause such an uproar. I don't really care about that, but I'm surprised none-the-less.

Yea well thats what happens here mostly,topics slide off waay to easy around here and before you know it you have 10 pages of B.S. not even pertaining to the question you asked. stay on topic! i wish mods would inforce that more around here.
 
Originally Posted By: addyguy
Fine, I did get to worked up about it, or typed it as such.

This site 'used to be' about making sensible decision based on FACTS.

It isn't anymore, and I just have to accept that.

Consider this: If you bought a set of tires that were rated for 60k miles, would you replace them at 15k miles? Do you replace timing chains or belts every 20k? Do you replace air filters every 2k?

Of course you don't because they last much longer than that. Oil does too, but for some reason, on an oil site, we don't know that....?



Tires and timing chains are not a good analogy since they cost at least 10 times as much as motor oil and more importantly can be visually inspected.
Air cleaners have a longer life than motor oil and are unaffected by short trips.

There are many valid reasons to do short OCI's even with syn oils. The fact this oil sheared out of grade, certainly if for no other reason justified the oil change, and therefore the OTT comment was particularly unwarranted.
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM



There are many valid reasons to do short OCI's even with syn oils.




Yep, such as if you change your oil but then Pennzoil Ultra arrives in town so you decide to try that out before your current interval is near the end. (in other words, if Ultra arrives here in Canada before my oil life monitor counts down to zero I'm going to be very tempted to change the oil, even if I've only got 2 or 3000 miles on it, and I'm fully prepared for the uproar on here!)
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I agree, there always seems to be something new that you didn't foresee coming that you just have to try.
Leaving the oil in for even a year let alone two in low mileage situations is a very long time in a fast changing market place especially with GF-5 coming in a year end.
 
Shearing DOES NOT justify an oil change alone. That is a mistruth!

LOTS of oils shear, and still protect perfectly well for a full OCI. That is a fact, one that most if not all, tribologists will agree with.

Again, a lie to justify a 'gut reaction' position.

Maybe it doesn't matter, but it doesn't make it any less shameful that this site is no longer about facts......
 
Originally Posted By: Nyquist


Every piece of data is useful whether it be a 10,000 mile OCI or a short one. I didn't think that you had a to be a scientist to realize that, but apparently that is not the case since opinions seem to be very important to people.


I completely agree. Thanks for taking the time and effort to post this data for everyone to see and use.
 
Originally Posted By: addyguy
Shearing DOES NOT justify an oil change alone. That is a mistruth!

LOTS of oils shear, and still protect perfectly well for a full OCI. That is a fact, one that most if not all, tribologists will agree with.

Again, a lie to justify a 'gut reaction' position.

Maybe it doesn't matter, but it doesn't make it any less shameful that this site is no longer about facts......


To use an out-dated cliche, you sound like a broken record.
We're not talking about shear of a few percentage points, this is 18% and out of grade.
As I mentioned earlier most auto manufacturer's set the condemnation level for maximum shear at 15%.
 
Originally Posted By: addyguy
Shearing DOES NOT justify an oil change alone. That is a mistruth!

LOTS of oils shear, and still protect perfectly well for a full OCI. That is a fact, one that most if not all, tribologists will agree with.

Again, a lie to justify a 'gut reaction' position.

Maybe it doesn't matter, but it doesn't make it any less shameful that this site is no longer about facts......


"justify"

So now we have to "justify" our oil changes?

Hey, how about we create a new government agency in charge of oil changes. They will keep track of your vehicles mileage of course. And all oil sales will be controlled. Kind of like going to a pharmacy for meds. You can only buy oil, or have it changed by a shop if you have "justified" that you have used up all the additives and your TBN is down to 1!!!
 
Originally Posted By: shpankey
That's some severe service. Oil did fantastic imo. I just changed out my wifes SUV M10w30 last night. 4k mi. Unfortunately I can't afford the UOA.
frown.gif



The analysis kits are $11 at my local Caterpillar engine shop. Personally if I were you, i'd use Dino and get the analysis if I was short on funds.
 
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