Mobil 0W-20 at 5k; 30k on Lexus LS460

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We didn’t find anything too out of line here. Universal averages show how metals should look after about 6,DOO miles oil use. Your engine made average metal readings after just 5,000 miles on the oil, but that’s not really a problem because not all engines wear exactly like our averages show. As trends develop, we’ll learn more about your engine’s particular wear patterns. In the meantime, no fuel, coolant, water, or excessive dirt was found. The TBN is fine at 3.1 since I .0 is low. Go another 2,000 miles on this fill before resampling for another look at metals

4972 Miles on Oil
30126 Miles on Vehicle
The Two Columns are MY CAR and UNIVERSAL AVERAGES

Aluminum 2 3
Cromium 0 0
Iron 17 11
Copper 3 3
Lead 0 0
Tin 0 0
Molybdenum 71 285
Nickel 0 0
Manganese 0 0
Silver 0 0
Titanium 0 0
Potassium 0 1
Boron 49 53
Silicon 14 10
Sodium 3 9
Calcium 1265 1838
Magnesuim 632 455
Phosphorus 577 672
Zinc 625 783
Barium 0 0
SUS 51.3 46-56
cST 7.67 6-9.4
Flashpoint 400 >385
Fuel % Antifreeze % 0 0
Water % 0 Insolubles% .4 TBN 3.1
 
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What can you folks tell me about this first analysis on my 2009 Lexus LS460AWD. It's my second fill with M1, but the first time for oil analysis. The prior fill I went 9000 miles, so there should be no residue from non-Mobil 1 oil that was in there before.
 
I bet you almost any major 5w20 conventional would hold up to this use. I would not even bother with the "syn". I don't think I am anymore either, conventional has gotten much better.
 
Originally Posted By: chubbs1
I bet you almost any major 5w20 conventional would hold up to this use. I would not even bother with the "syn". I don't think I am anymore either, conventional has gotten much better.


On the freeway I'd agree because it's a big powerful engine.

However, his TBN was 3.1 at 5k. They say to go to 7k. He went to 9k the first time which may have been too far.

So even synthetic isn't holding up particularly well in his case. I wonder what his driving style is.
 
Toyota V8s usually have better iron wear numbers, even on M1. Insols are above average at .4, also. Odd.

Otherwise, the rest of the numbers look fine.

How much time did this change have on it? You have a 2009 model with only 30K on it, seems like a small amount of miles for a daily driver.

I'd try the Toyota 0w20, personally.
 
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The time was 4 months and 1 week. I bot the car at the end of 2009 and drove our Corolla for a while. But I'm putting on about 1000 miles per month now. It is mostly nasty Pittsburgh city driving, including some "it's cold...let the engine run while I go to the store" idling.

My results with Mobil1 have been disappointing on both this vehicle and on my 2006 Lexus RX330. I had hoped to be able to go 10K per change, but as others have pointed out, it appears that the sweet spot is about 7500. I might as well go back to Lexus recommended 5000 changes and use dino oil.
 
First of all, this is only a singular UOA, so we can only draw some wide-view inferences, and no solid conclusions. A few more UOAs would really help out here.


Your Fe is 50% higher than average with mileage that is less than average; that's not "great" by any means, but the level is low enough not to be alarming. Because the Cu, Pb and AL are well in check, the Fe is something to watch rather than panic over.

The TBN is a bit disappointing if you ask me. A premium expensive syn and it's dropped that far in 5k miles? Hmmmmmm. I would want better retention than that. In no way is 3.x bad, but I've seen other oils hold their TBN just as well, and even better at times, given this exposure. Now, with TBN at 3.x, you certainly can run this oil out further. I would think 7.5k miles would be just about right. Do another UOA then.

If you got these numbers at 10k miles, I'd be more inclinded to be complimentary. Frankly, I suspect any quality dino oil could do this well at 5k miles; the M1 is not impressing me at this point.
 
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Vis is good with no shearing. Metals don't really mean much, but yours are very good. FP is excellant. As for the TBN you are fine. This oil starts out with a TBN of 8.8 and your's at 3.1 will carry you for many miles yet. Remember not all TBN is the same and often TBN will drop a lot at first but will provide excellant protection even with lower numbers for many miles without droping much more. If this was my engine 10K wouldn't bother me.
 
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I like your idea of using conventional and changing it every 5K miles BEST.

If you choose to stay with a syn, why not try a SOPUS product like QS or PP?

You certainly wouldn't be the first user to have high Fe levels with Mobil-1, and lower levels with another brand of oil.

Thanks for posting the UOA.
 
If I do switch to another synthetic, I'll sample and post again. But frankly it costs $55 for me to sample (including overnight postage) so it seems that I'm just better off scaring the dinosaurs again.
 
Someone please help me understand this. Almost 5K and the TBN is 3.1 Blackstone suggests going another 2K, making a 7K OCI with M1. Aren't others doing that well or some better with a dino oil like PYB?

I would definitely try another syn other than M1.
 
Originally Posted By: Daryll
If I do switch to another synthetic, I'll sample and post again. But frankly it costs $55 for me to sample (including overnight postage) so it seems that I'm just better off scaring the dinosaurs again.


UOA at the local Caterpillar dealer here is about $12, and Toyota 0w20 can be had for about $6 a quart at case pricing. With Dino pushing $4 a quart, seems like a pretty good deal.
 
I sent my first sample by regular mail and it took 3 weeks. The second one I sent by overnight and Blackstone has the results to me about 30 hours after I left the post office. So big points for Blackstone, none for regular mail. Maybe I'll try the Toyota oil next time before I give up on synthetic. My results with Mobil1 on my wife's RX330 were not great either:

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2456292&page=1
 
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