now you did it, iam thinking of how to put a buzzer on my dakota. but i cant design the electronics.
Mechanical Oil Pressure Gauge Installation--PHOTOS
- Thread starter TallPaul
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Originally Posted By: TallPaul
Originally Posted By: cchase
From a general engineering design standpoint, no one installs electric gauges for things that matter.
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No one relies on a human to monitor any sort of gauge for things that matter.
Originally Posted By: cchase
From a general engineering design standpoint, no one installs electric gauges for things that matter.
_______________________
No one relies on a human to monitor any sort of gauge for things that matter.
Originally Posted By: TallPaul
Me and zip ties go way back. Here is the gauge I ran on the F150 for 8 years with no leaks and the nylon line was not protected at all:
Oil Gauge mounting photo F150
Nylon tubing connects a Stewart Warner gauge in the 63 Ford listed in my sig for 40 years and over 100,000 miles; no leaks. The melting point of even common nylon is nearly 400 degrees F. As long as it away from the exhaust, it's not a problem.
Well done sir.
Kevin
Me and zip ties go way back. Here is the gauge I ran on the F150 for 8 years with no leaks and the nylon line was not protected at all:
Oil Gauge mounting photo F150
Nylon tubing connects a Stewart Warner gauge in the 63 Ford listed in my sig for 40 years and over 100,000 miles; no leaks. The melting point of even common nylon is nearly 400 degrees F. As long as it away from the exhaust, it's not a problem.
Well done sir.
Kevin
Originally Posted By: ag_ghost
Nylon tubing connects a Stewart Warner gauge in the 63 Ford listed in my sig for 40 years and over 100,000 miles; no leaks. The melting point of even common nylon is nearly 400 degrees F. As long as it away from the exhaust, it's not a problem.
Well done sir.
Kevin
Nylon line
Great Cars too!
Nylon tubing connects a Stewart Warner gauge in the 63 Ford listed in my sig for 40 years and over 100,000 miles; no leaks. The melting point of even common nylon is nearly 400 degrees F. As long as it away from the exhaust, it's not a problem.
Well done sir.
Kevin
Nylon line
Great Cars too!
Originally Posted By: TallPaul
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
OBTW- here's the gauge installation on my Ram:
http://smg.beta.photobucket.com/user/440_Magnum/media/OP_0w20_4_7.mp4.html
Your gauge is working just like mine does hot. Idle is around 20 psi and rev to 4000+ and it goes to 85 psi. The big quesiton is what does yours go to on a cold morning? How cold does it get in your part of Texas? What is the cold start pressure and cold rev (but not to 4000) pressure?
By the way, nice rock steady idle at 600 rpm. Many EFI will idle at 800+ or did you have it in gear?
I've never seen that Ram top 100 psi, even when cold on either 0w20 or 5w20. I have to be pretty careful with the old big-blocks, because they'll easily peg the gauge when stone cold (40-wt oils and high-volume oil pumps).
The idle on the 4.7 Ram is interesting. If you have the AC off and the engine is fully warmed up, the idle will drop to 500 and sit there very solidly, in gear or out. Its almost disconcerting to be at a traffic light in winter and not be able to even hear it running. That video was done at the end of a 100+ degree day, so I'm sure the air was on! When the air is on, it won't go below 600 It wasn't in gear.
On a cold start, it will jump to 1500 RPM and is very slow to come down. But if you put it in gear, the idle drops quickly before the trans engages- the miracles of networked engine and transmission computers
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
OBTW- here's the gauge installation on my Ram:
http://smg.beta.photobucket.com/user/440_Magnum/media/OP_0w20_4_7.mp4.html
Your gauge is working just like mine does hot. Idle is around 20 psi and rev to 4000+ and it goes to 85 psi. The big quesiton is what does yours go to on a cold morning? How cold does it get in your part of Texas? What is the cold start pressure and cold rev (but not to 4000) pressure?
By the way, nice rock steady idle at 600 rpm. Many EFI will idle at 800+ or did you have it in gear?
I've never seen that Ram top 100 psi, even when cold on either 0w20 or 5w20. I have to be pretty careful with the old big-blocks, because they'll easily peg the gauge when stone cold (40-wt oils and high-volume oil pumps).
The idle on the 4.7 Ram is interesting. If you have the AC off and the engine is fully warmed up, the idle will drop to 500 and sit there very solidly, in gear or out. Its almost disconcerting to be at a traffic light in winter and not be able to even hear it running. That video was done at the end of a 100+ degree day, so I'm sure the air was on! When the air is on, it won't go below 600 It wasn't in gear.
On a cold start, it will jump to 1500 RPM and is very slow to come down. But if you put it in gear, the idle drops quickly before the trans engages- the miracles of networked engine and transmission computers
Originally Posted By: morris
why wouldn't a buzzer be better? after all you cant keep your eye on a gauge all the time. they used to put them on semi-trucks.
Every car I've owned since a 1993 model (it was probably common a few years before that) will ding a chime and set a "check gauges" light if any reading (oil, temp, voltage) goes too far out of range. And that includes the ones with full gauges like my Cherokees.
why wouldn't a buzzer be better? after all you cant keep your eye on a gauge all the time. they used to put them on semi-trucks.
Every car I've owned since a 1993 model (it was probably common a few years before that) will ding a chime and set a "check gauges" light if any reading (oil, temp, voltage) goes too far out of range. And that includes the ones with full gauges like my Cherokees.
my car dings, chimes, turns on red lights, but i cant figure out what its saying. thats TO much info.
All the chimes and warning bells in cars these days is like the boy who cried wolf. We will learn to ignore them.
Last time I did this I used high pressure hydraulic line. Really durable and takes the heat well.
even though high "pressure hydraulic line" will work very good, it is a little over kill, but thats OK. i might do the same.
Nothing wrong with overkill. I sort of have that with the extra plastic tube which would hopefully prevent me being sprayed if the end of the nylon line came out. Not that I expect it to.
Originally Posted By: TallPaul
Nothing wrong with overkill. I sort of have that with the extra plastic tube which would hopefully prevent me being sprayed if the end of the nylon line came out. Not that I expect it to.
I agree. My only beef with your installation is the material for that outer tube (well, and maybe the zipties, but not so much ;-) ). Clear tubing is nice when its new, but it will get dark and brittle quickly. Black vacuum hose would last a lot longer and give better protection against the capillary line chafing.
Nothing wrong with overkill. I sort of have that with the extra plastic tube which would hopefully prevent me being sprayed if the end of the nylon line came out. Not that I expect it to.
I agree. My only beef with your installation is the material for that outer tube (well, and maybe the zipties, but not so much ;-) ). Clear tubing is nice when its new, but it will get dark and brittle quickly. Black vacuum hose would last a lot longer and give better protection against the capillary line chafing.
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
... My only beef with your installation is the material for that outer tube (well, and maybe the zipties, but not so much ;-) ). Clear tubing is nice when its new, but it will get dark and brittle quickly. Black vacuum hose would last a lot longer and give better protection against the capillary line chafing.
Yes, that would be a nice way to go. When the clear hose goes bad I can do it. Would still want an overlap on the nut with a fatter tube. Ideally make a large hole in the firewall and sheath the entire nylon line in a single length of the vacuum hose.
... My only beef with your installation is the material for that outer tube (well, and maybe the zipties, but not so much ;-) ). Clear tubing is nice when its new, but it will get dark and brittle quickly. Black vacuum hose would last a lot longer and give better protection against the capillary line chafing.
Yes, that would be a nice way to go. When the clear hose goes bad I can do it. Would still want an overlap on the nut with a fatter tube. Ideally make a large hole in the firewall and sheath the entire nylon line in a single length of the vacuum hose.
Here it is. I'm planning on loading up some videos of it in action soon.
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