Maxlife 10w40 for Diesel Application

[3311]

Hey Gang,

I wanted to get everyone's opinion on mixing 10w40 Maxlife with my current fill of Rotella 15w40.
The truck is a GMC c7500, 7.8l Duramax(Isuzu) LG4, Allison 2400 5 speed auto, 123k miles mostly(70%) highway.
I'm about 3k miles(normal oci is 10-12k per olm) into the current fill, Rotella 15w40, and have noticed the rear main is starting get wet, not really a drip but starting.

On days the truck is not on the road we move it out of the shop and park it outside, think all these cold starts may have something to do with the issue.

Anyway back to the question. The sump/oil capacity is 24quarts and I was thinking of dumping 5 qts and refilling with 10w40 Maxlife for the reaming oci and then contiuing this mix moving forward. I know Maxlife blend does not carry a diesel rating like full synthetic does but it can be had for cheap right now at Wallys and I already have 5qts.

Thoughts anyone?

 

[JHZR2]

I wouldn't personally.

I'd want better soot holding capacity.

Diesels tend to leak, kind of is what it is. Your approach surely is better than using a swell additive or going all maxlife.

I'd prefer to fix the issue, but easier said than done sometimes...

 

[3311]

Thanks for the input. I noticed M1 hm 10w40 does carry a diesel rating although it is cf( truck is rated for ch-4.
I'm not really crazy about replacing the rear main seal.

 

[ADZ]

I have a zz4 crate motor. The motor has 25K on the clock. I am using 20/50 valveline sae. Can I switch to synthetic oil. If so you what do you recommend. Adz

 

[Chris142]

Originally Posted By: ADZ
I have a zz4 crate motor. The motor has 25K on the clock. I am using 20/50 valveline sae. Can I switch to synthetic oil. If so you what do you recommend. Adz

IMO 20w50 is way too thick.That engine has roller lifters so you can use your favorite 5w30 or 10w30 without worry.

Yes you can switch to a Synthetic oil if you wish.

 

[3311]

Went ahead and did a M1 HM 10w40 5qt mix. Liked the idea getting a "syn blend" and the add pack looks like an hdeo minus magnesium to my novice eyes. Will post a uoa at next oci, should be in 6-7k miles.

The rear main has actually become a drip so we will see how it goes

 

[turbowhistle]

I would only use a diesel rated motor oil.

 

[3311]

Originally Posted By: turbowhistle
I would only use a diesel rated motor oil.
It does carry a cf rating and euro light diesel A3/B4 so that something.

 

[dnewton3]

If you were near the end of an OCI, and you simply needed to top off for a few more miles, then the Maxlife wouldn't hurt. But it's not a good plan to simply replace your HDEO with the PCMO. Stick with a current CJ-4 oil. I doubt using the Maxlife is going to help, any more than it would hurt. It'll be a wash, so why waste the oil?

It is possible that the rear seal is hardening. Consider an ARX treatment, and then go back to quality HDEOs. If the rear seal is truly worn, a 10w-40 PCMO is not going to stop the leak any more than a 15w-40.

 

[3311]

I already went ahead with 5qts of M1 HM 10w40. I could not agree more about dumping an average sm oil in this truck but the add pack to my noob eyes looks at least as good as what came out. I'm sure there is more to it though.
Will do a uoa and post.
Mobil 1 Hm 10w40: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1883932#Post1883932

A couple of Rotellas:http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1423523&Searchpage=4&Main=104491&Words=rotella+15w40&Search=true#Post1423523

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...rue#Post1791357

 

[dnewton3]

I don't think you've hurt anything, but I doubt it will help, either.

And I have to disagree with your concept:
" ... but the add pack to my noob eyes looks at least as good as what came out." If MaxLife 10w-40 were approved for diesel app's, then why would they bother making VPB? Why not simplyfy inventory and production costs, and make them universal? If MaxLife is "at least as good" (leaving open the possibility that it could be better?) then why not dump your whole sump capacity, and start using 24 qrts of MaxLife?

Again, with a 6 gallon sump, changing 5 qrts will not hurt, but then again with only 5 qrts changed, what just what did you expect to gain? You changed out 21% of the volume; did you expect 21% improvement in something?

 

[3311]

Originally Posted By: dnewton3
I don't think you've hurt anything, but I doubt it will help, either.

And I have to disagree with your concept:
" ... but the add pack to my noob eyes looks at least as good as what came out." If MaxLife 10w-40 were approved for diesel app's, then why would they bother making VPB? Why not simplyfy inventory and production costs, and make them universal? If MaxLife is "at least as good" (leaving open the possibility that it could be better?) then why not dump your whole sump capacity, and start using 24 qrts of MaxLife?

Again, with a 6 gallon sump, changing 5 qrts will not hurt, but then again with only 5 qrts changed, what just what did you expect to gain? You changed out 21% of the volume; did you expect 21% improvement in something?


Hey Dnewton,
I went with M1 HM 10w40. I'm simply trying to slow/stop the rear main leak. Although I fully share your beliefs in using dino, but if I was going to mix, I kind of liked the idea of getting a "blend", that's why I used M1 over Maxlife

I only changed out 20% because it doesn't carry a modern heavy diesel rating, I'm only 3k miles into my current oci, I didn't want to buy 5 more gallons of oil when I have 12 gallons of Delo 15w40 waiting for this truck and I had great results with Maxlife power steering fluid stopping a leak with only a partial fluid change on my 04 2500hd.

So if I can accomplish my goal of stopping/slowing the rear main leak with just partial mix of HM oil with my current fill of Rotella and future fills(pending UOA) of Delo why not?

P.S. I'm changing from Rotella to Delo for no other reason than when Wally's had it on sale and I stocked up.

Don

 

[Garak]

Originally Posted By: 3311
So if I can accomplish my goal of stopping/slowing the rear main leak with just partial mix of HM oil with my current fill of Rotella and future fills(pending UOA) of Delo why not?


I think it's really hard to say. HM oils obviously can't fix every leak, even every minor leak. Personally, I had good luck with Valvoline MaxLife in my Ford 300 cid inline six, before it got rebuilt. It didn't burn oil, but leaked like a sieve. Valvoline MaxLife is a blend, by the way; it can also be had in synthetic, at least in the U.S., from what I understand.

In the winter, I ran MaxLife 5w-30, and it slowed the leak substantially. It also helped a couple other little issues.

However, do note that in the summer, I ran Delvac 1300 15w-40. It leaked as slowly with that in the summer as it did with MaxLife 5w-30 in the winter. I mention that to temper your expectations. A high mileage oil, if it helps at all, will take time to do its work and may not accomplish more than a thicker HDEO would from a different approach. I'm also not sure if your "dosage" is sufficient from a seal swell perspective; however, I'm not sold on putting an oil with such a dated diesel spec in a modern diesel engine, either.

 

[chevrofreak]

I would have just dumped in 3 bottles of the new concentrated No Leak.

 

[dnewton3]

Originally Posted By: 3311
Originally Posted By: dnewton3
I don't think you've hurt anything, but I doubt it will help, either.

And I have to disagree with your concept:
" ... but the add pack to my noob eyes looks at least as good as what came out." If MaxLife 10w-40 were approved for diesel app's, then why would they bother making VPB? Why not simplyfy inventory and production costs, and make them universal? If MaxLife is "at least as good" (leaving open the possibility that it could be better?) then why not dump your whole sump capacity, and start using 24 qrts of MaxLife?

Again, with a 6 gallon sump, changing 5 qrts will not hurt, but then again with only 5 qrts changed, what just what did you expect to gain? You changed out 21% of the volume; did you expect 21% improvement in something?


Hey Dnewton,
I went with M1 HM 10w40. I'm simply trying to slow/stop the rear main leak. Although I fully share your beliefs in using dino, but if I was going to mix, I kind of liked the idea of getting a "blend", that's why I used M1 over Maxlife

I only changed out 20% because it doesn't carry a modern heavy diesel rating, I'm only 3k miles into my current oci, I didn't want to buy 5 more gallons of oil when I have 12 gallons of Delo 15w40 waiting for this truck and I had great results with Maxlife power steering fluid stopping a leak with only a partial fluid change on my 04 2500hd.

So if I can accomplish my goal of stopping/slowing the rear main leak with just partial mix of HM oil with my current fill of Rotella and future fills(pending UOA) of Delo why not?

P.S. I'm changing from Rotella to Delo for no other reason than when Wally's had it on sale and I stocked up.

Don


There are three typical reasons a seal would leak:
1) improperly installed or selected
2) mechanical wear
3) hardening

If condition 1 were true, it would have always leaked. The way you describe it, this isn't likely, so we'll rule this out.

If condition 2 is true, then no fluid will stem the tide, at least for very long. Mechanical damage cannot be over come, except for using a vastly thicker fluid, and that has other risks. Also, the mechanical damage is likely ongoing; it would continue to get worse, and eventually no fluid will be thick enough.

If it is condition 3, then I would suggest a product such as ARX. I have great respect for this product due to personal experience with it, and I'm no big fan of additives in general. If the seal is simply hardening with time, the ARX will slowly clean the seal, and restore its pliability. This ARX treatment is simple, reasonably priced, and will solve the issue if hardening is the root cause. At times a second application is needed. But this stuff flat works, with zero ill side-effects.

 

[3311]

Originally Posted By: Garak
Originally Posted By: 3311
So if I can accomplish my goal of stopping/slowing the rear main leak with just partial mix of HM oil with my current fill of Rotella and future fills(pending UOA) of Delo why not?


I think it's really hard to say. HM oils obviously can't fix every leak, even every minor leak. Personally, I had good luck with Valvoline MaxLife in my Ford 300 cid inline six, before it got rebuilt. It didn't burn oil, but leaked like a sieve. Valvoline MaxLife is a blend, by the way; it can also be had in synthetic, at least in the U.S., from what I understand.

In the winter, I ran MaxLife 5w-30, and it slowed the leak substantially. It also helped a couple other little issues.

However, do note that in the summer, I ran Delvac 1300 15w-40. It leaked as slowly with that in the summer as it did with MaxLife 5w-30 in the winter. I mention that to temper your expectations. A high mileage oil, if it helps at all, will take time to do its work and may not accomplish more than a thicker HDEO would from a different approach. I'm also not sure if your "dosage" is sufficient from a seal swell perspective; however, I'm not sold on putting an oil with such a dated diesel spec in a modern diesel engine, either.

I'm not completley comfortable either that's why I picked and oil with a stout add pack like M1 hm 10w40 which I believe is thicker than the Rotella and only did a 20% mix.
The next service will be due in 6-7k miles so it will get some time in there.

Don

 

[Texan4Life]

This is an interesting idea.

I wonder why there is not a "high mileage" HDEO on the market?

 

[3311]

Originally Posted By: dnewton3
Originally Posted By: 3311
Originally Posted By: dnewton3
I don't think you've hurt anything, but I doubt it will help, either.

And I have to disagree with your concept:
" ... but the add pack to my noob eyes looks at least as good as what came out." If MaxLife 10w-40 were approved for diesel app's, then why would they bother making VPB? Why not simplyfy inventory and production costs, and make them universal? If MaxLife is "at least as good" (leaving open the possibility that it could be better?) then why not dump your whole sump capacity, and start using 24 qrts of MaxLife?

Again, with a 6 gallon sump, changing 5 qrts will not hurt, but then again with only 5 qrts changed, what just what did you expect to gain? You changed out 21% of the volume; did you expect 21% improvement in something?


Hey Dnewton,
I went with M1 HM 10w40. I'm simply trying to slow/stop the rear main leak. Although I fully share your beliefs in using dino, but if I was going to mix, I kind of liked the idea of getting a "blend", that's why I used M1 over Maxlife

I only changed out 20% because it doesn't carry a modern heavy diesel rating, I'm only 3k miles into my current oci, I didn't want to buy 5 more gallons of oil when I have 12 gallons of Delo 15w40 waiting for this truck and I had great results with Maxlife power steering fluid stopping a leak with only a partial fluid change on my 04 2500hd.

So if I can accomplish my goal of stopping/slowing the rear main leak with just partial mix of HM oil with my current fill of Rotella and future fills(pending UOA) of Delo why not?

P.S. I'm changing from Rotella to Delo for no other reason than when Wally's had it on sale and I stocked up.

Don


There are three typical reasons a seal would leak:
1) improperly installed or selected
2) mechanical wear
3) hardening

If condition 1 were true, it would have always leaked. The way you describe it, this isn't likely, so we'll rule this out.

If condition 2 is true, then no fluid will stem the tide, at least for very long. Mechanical damage cannot be over come, except for using a vastly thicker fluid, and that has other risks. Also, the mechanical damage is likely ongoing; it would continue to get worse, and eventually no fluid will be thick enough.

If it is condition 3, then I would suggest a product such as ARX. I have great respect for this product due to personal experience with it, and I'm no big fan of additives in general. If the seal is simply hardening with time, the ARX will slowly clean the seal, and restore its pliability. This ARX treatment is simple, reasonably priced, and will solve the issue if hardening is the root cause. At times a second application is needed. But this stuff flat works, with zero ill side-effects.

Thanks for the tip about AutoRX. I'm like you in not being a fan of additives, but I respect your opinion and will keep it in mind if the HM oil run doesn't work. It's not a huge leak and the engine has always been well maintained so I have time to try a few things.

Don

 

[dnewton3]

I generally don't profess a love for additives, but I also believe products that perform should get credit where it's due.

I participated in a trial of ARX (non-compensated) a few years ago. The results to stunning to say the least. I believe that this product can do exactly what it claims. But it's not a miracle fluid any more than any other product. I can do some things very well; it can't do everything. You can search for my ARX trial in the "additives" section.

If the seal on the Dmax is worn, the ARX will not help. But if the seal is hardening from the byproducts of combustion (heat, tars, etc) the ARX will likely be able to restore the pliability of the seal, given time. One or two applications is FAR cheaper than pulling the tranny to replace a seal. It's worth a try before replacing the seal.

 

[3311]

Originally Posted By: Texan4Life
This is an interesting idea.

I wonder why there is not a "high mileage" HDEO on the market?

I agree you think there would be. Over the rod trucks are true high mileage vehicles. They have Maxlife Diesel in Europe.
Don