Originally Posted By: Qwiky
Originally Posted By: StromRider
Originally Posted By: MrMeeks
It seems modern oils don't need to be 'thick'.
Since nearly all 10w40 turns into a 30 weight anyway, it may not make much difference in the real world. It may be worth noting that the manual for my suzuki vstrom "recommends" 10w40 but "allows" 15w40 even though the latter is more shear stable.
that logic assumes that a 30W oil won't shear as much as a 40W
A 10w30 can be made with no vii polymers so if its is a good 10w30 it need not shear at all. I suspect nearly all 10w40 oil is just heavy 10w30 plus polymers that go away almost immediately. In any case I would take a solid 10w30 with a good ht/hs over most 5w40 or 0w40 oils since I have seen how bad they can shear. The one I tried, castrol rs 4t 5w40, was close to a twenty weight in just 1300 miles of easy commuting.
Originally Posted By: StromRider
Originally Posted By: MrMeeks
It seems modern oils don't need to be 'thick'.
Since nearly all 10w40 turns into a 30 weight anyway, it may not make much difference in the real world. It may be worth noting that the manual for my suzuki vstrom "recommends" 10w40 but "allows" 15w40 even though the latter is more shear stable.
that logic assumes that a 30W oil won't shear as much as a 40W
A 10w30 can be made with no vii polymers so if its is a good 10w30 it need not shear at all. I suspect nearly all 10w40 oil is just heavy 10w30 plus polymers that go away almost immediately. In any case I would take a solid 10w30 with a good ht/hs over most 5w40 or 0w40 oils since I have seen how bad they can shear. The one I tried, castrol rs 4t 5w40, was close to a twenty weight in just 1300 miles of easy commuting.