Lever style electrical receptacles and switches

Joined
May 6, 2005
Messages
12,150
Location
San Francisco Bay Area
Not sure what kind of patent WAGO has on their lever style electrical connectors given how many similar devices are available. However, Leviton has switches and regular outlets (not GFCI yet) that use only lever connections in the back. It looks like the holes for backstab connections, but I suppose with a separate spring and not relying on the same brass as a leaf spring/barb. I’ve inspected ~30 year old backstabbed connections, and the leaf spring tension was clearly reduced.


decora-edge-hotspot.jpg


I’m not really in the market for them now, but this looks pretty interesting.
 
It would be interesting what testing went into determining that the WAGO style connection meets electrical code.

I am curious to know what makes the WAGO lever style connection more reliable than the push in spring type connection that has been popular (debatably) for decades. Or is it more reliable?

I've started using WAGO lever lock style connectors, and I've got to say, I'm a fan. My inventory of wire nuts will probably never get used up, now that I've started using WAGO connectors. Next time I'm in need of switches or receptacles, I'll look for the lever lock style connection.
 
Interesting. If they don't cost "a lot" more then I'd be interested in using them. I like using the versions where I don't have to bend wire around a screw, and will only buy those, so these just get around needing a screwdriver... almost.
 
Interesting. If they don't cost "a lot" more then I'd be interested in using them. I like using the versions where I don't have to bend wire around a screw, and will only buy those, so these just get around needing a screwdriver... almost.

I’ve had some disappointment with cheapie GFCI receptacles where the backwire clamps pulled out when I checked a few days later. I redid it with the wire around the screw since I didn’t trust the pressure plate clamps. It seemed that the clamps were too wide and soft. There are some backwire receptacles where there’s a hole and then screwing down forces a clamp against a contact. That’s probably more secure.
 
Patent ? Probably long expired.... If I'm not mistaken, WAGOs have been prominent in Europe for many years.
 
Interesting. If they don't cost "a lot" more then I'd be interested in using them. I like using the versions where I don't have to bend wire around a screw, and will only buy those, so these just get around needing a screwdriver... almost.
I'm shocked at how cheap they are, $2.50/each (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton...-Switch-10-Pack-White-M02-E5601-0MW/322083349). Commercial-grade receptacles (the type you're referring to) are in the $5/each range at home improvement stores or Amazon.
 
It would be interesting what testing went into determining that the WAGO style connection meets electrical code.

I am curious to know what makes the WAGO lever style connection more reliable than the push in spring type connection that has been popular (debatably) for decades. Or is it more reliable?

I've started using WAGO lever lock style connectors, and I've got to say, I'm a fan. My inventory of wire nuts will probably never get used up, now that I've started using WAGO connectors. Next time I'm in need of switches or receptacles, I'll look for the lever lock style connection.

You’re referring to backstabs? Leviton calls theirs’ “QuickWire”.

mceclip0.png


I’ve looked inside a few, and there’s typically a curved depression for the wire to rest against, then a leaf spring/barb (that also serves as the release) that presses the inserted wire against the depression. As long as there’s decent pressure from the leaf spring, there should be fairly decent contact. The problem seems to be how good brass is long term as a leaf spring, and that it seems to weaken after several years, hot/cold cycles, and just the wire being in there for years. I’ve taken several out or at least switched to the screws after almost 30 years. The spring is definitely not as effective after that length of time. The spring has definitely been deformed after that amount of time.

I’m not sure about everything that WAGO makes, since that includes push in connectors. However, the 221 Lever-Nut uses a tinned copper bus bar and a steel spring at each lever position, along with some sort of barb to lock in wires. I’m guessing that’s what Leviton puts in. Maybe also Ideal with its In-Sure L2, which is a lever style connector where the lever is on the opposite side. Just ordered a jar of 500 from Amazon since they were so cheap ($26). The price is mind boggling - cheaper than high quality wire nuts. I’m probably going to redo some of my work done with 3-port WAGO Lever-Nuts since I didn’t really need 3-port but I got them thinking they’d be more versatile. I do have one where I’m bridging connections in the box and then tapping a receptacle, but others there’s one port empty. I figure they can be reused.

I like the idea of using lever connectors instead of wire cuts for extensions. If there’s only a few inches, I don’t want to chew up what little wire there is to work with with a wire nut or a push in connector that can be removed with a bit of twisting that will obvious scratch up the wire.
 
I'm shocked at how cheap they are, $2.50/each (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton...-Switch-10-Pack-White-M02-E5601-0MW/322083349). Commercial-grade receptacles (the type you're referring to) are in the $5/each range at home improvement stores or Amazon.

They might have simplified everything. At first I was thinking they might only work with snap on wallplates, but apparently they work with relatively cheap Decora plates. But if you want the snap on wallplates, those can cost more than. These switches.
 
I'm shocked at how cheap they are, $2.50/each (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton...-Switch-10-Pack-White-M02-E5601-0MW/322083349). Commercial-grade receptacles (the type you're referring to) are in the $5/each range at home improvement stores or Amazon.
How did they pull that off? seems like it should cost more, not less. Demand? dunno.

I've got a bunch of light switches that are past their prime and in need of replacing. Thanks for the link, I will check that out. Mine are the regular toggle, not sure which I prefer more, but saving a few bucks, that may sway me.
 
How did they pull that off? seems like it should cost more, not less. Demand? dunno.

I've got a bunch of light switches that are past their prime and in need of replacing. Thanks for the link, I will check that out. Mine are the regular toggle, not sure which I prefer more, but saving a few bucks, that may sway me.

The holy grail of manufacturing is lower bill of materials with premium features. I’d be curious as to what it looks like inside.
 
You’re referring to backstabs? Leviton calls theirs’ “QuickWire”.

mceclip0.png


I’ve looked inside a few, and there’s typically a curved depression for the wire to rest against, then a leaf spring/barb (that also serves as the release) that presses the inserted wire against the depression. As long as there’s decent pressure from the leaf spring, there should be fairly decent contact. The problem seems to be how good brass is long term as a leaf spring, and that it seems to weaken after several years, hot/cold cycles, and just the wire being in there for years. I’ve taken several out or at least switched to the screws after almost 30 years. The spring is definitely not as effective after that length of time. The spring has definitely been deformed after that amount of time.

I’m not sure about everything that WAGO makes, since that includes push in connectors. However, the 221 Lever-Nut uses a tinned copper bus bar and a steel spring at each lever position, along with some sort of barb to lock in wires. I’m guessing that’s what Leviton puts in. Maybe also Ideal with its In-Sure L2, which is a lever style connector where the lever is on the opposite side. Just ordered a jar of 500 from Amazon since they were so cheap ($26). The price is mind boggling - cheaper than high quality wire nuts. I’m probably going to redo some of my work done with 3-port WAGO Lever-Nuts since I didn’t really need 3-port but I got them thinking they’d be more versatile. I do have one where I’m bridging connections in the box and then tapping a receptacle, but others there’s one port empty. I figure they can be reused.

I like the idea of using lever connectors instead of wire cuts for extensions. If there’s only a few inches, I don’t want to chew up what little wire there is to work with with a wire nut or a push in connector that can be removed with a bit of twisting that will obvious scratch up the wire.
Are these actual WAGO connectors that you ordered, or a knock-off? If that is for genuine WAGO, that is a very good price.
 
Are these actual WAGO connectors that you ordered, or a knock-off? If that is for genuine WAGO, that is a very good price.

Nah. Ideal’s version of a lever connector. Price makes no sense as sold directly by Amazon. $25.98 for a jar of 500. About $45 for a box of 150. Maybe $7 for a bag of 10. I don’t even think I’ll need 500 in my lifetime, but it seemed like a good deal.


I got a 10 pack of WAGO 3-port lever connectors at a local hardware store for $7. I figured 3-port would be more versatile and I put some in where 2-port would have been fine.
 
They might have simplified everything. At first I was thinking they might only work with snap on wallplates, but apparently they work with relatively cheap Decora plates. But if you want the snap on wallplates, those can cost more than. These switches.
They work with standard plates. Connection is the only difference. I'm a fan so far.
 
Someone was bound to take a Dremel tool to one. Also to a residential grade Leviton outlet and a commercial grade for comparison.



At least with the outlet, the wire goes into a hole against the contacts, and a separate V-shaped steel spring (not sure what they’re called) with a barb presses down the wire when the lever is in the locked position. It’s nothing like a backstab where the spring is formed from the same sheet of brass (which is a lousy spring material). This guy claims that backstabs are basically good for one insertion, as he feels using the release inherently weakens the brass spring.
 
Last edited:
How did they pull that off? seems like it should cost more, not less. Demand? dunno.

I've got a bunch of light switches that are past their prime and in need of replacing. Thanks for the link, I will check that out. Mine are the regular toggle, not sure which I prefer more, but saving a few bucks, that may sway me.

Saw them at HD and had a closer look. I guess part of the cost savings (relative to features) is that they’re made in China while regular Decora is made in the US.

The design is pretty easy to see just by examining one. There’s a steel spring putting pressure against the wire inserted into the wire hole. When the lever is opened it relieves pressure on the spring and allows it to open. Its considerably larger than the levers on a WAGO or similar connector style.

The top and bottom outlets can be separated with a breaker connection, but that would require separate connections (possibly switched).
 
Are these actual WAGO connectors that you ordered, or a knock-off? If that is for genuine WAGO, that is a very good price.

Just a follow-up, I got these and picked it up from an Amazon Locker.


11020_LA17EPY98V64H5FR.pdf


I was bored enough at lunch to count them, and I counted 509, barring any errors. They’re pretty nice. A little bit thicker than the WAGO 221. There have been some criticisms that it’s not that clear, but Ideal claims the housing is “profiled” to reduce slipping. The levers are nylon and the body is polycarbonate. The label has warnings about potentially hazardous materials including bisphenol A/polycarbonate, methylen chloride, and titanium dioxide. I’m pretty sure WAGO 221 is made of polycarbonate, but I don’t see a warning.

The mechanism is easy to see. It’s kind of a cam action where it compresses the spring when open, but relaxes when closed. So the spring pressure is allowed to clamp on the wire when closed. It’s not in the instructions, but Ideal says it’s OK to insert a solid wire into a locked port like with their push-in connectors. I tried it and it works. The edge of the spring acts as a barb to lock in the wire.
 
The Ideal lever connectors have this little window to see the tip of the wire past the bus bar. The label says they’re made in Austria. Overall I think the WAGO 221 is better, but I got the Ideal equivalents for less than 6 cents each.

They do recommend cutting and restripping wires when reusing these, but I’m not sure about doing that. Especially when one big reason to use them is that they don’t cut into wires much, and they can be really useful when there’s almost no wire length to work with. I put a couple in a box where the existing wire extends less than an inch out.
 
Back
Top