John Deere JX75

My plan is to get to bright metal and apply classic JB weld. I’ve heard of a few long lasting repairs doing this, some with a metal patch, but the holes in mine are small enough that I don’t think it’s needed.

Carriage bolts, round end inside the deck, has crossed my mind too. But I think that’s a bit too much and will look funky.

I know paint doesn’t last great, but it does something. My craftsman mower has gotten CRC 6-36, fluid film, or Ace Rust Stop paint on various years and it has signs of use but not a spot of rust.

On this one I’ll try the JB Weld, then do Ace Rust Stop self etching primer and their John Deere Green rust stop paint. It’s the underside of a lower so it will be fine. Probably not that hard of paint but it will cover something. I’ll probably top it with non-aerosol fluid film which is much tackier and more tenacious. But that will require the paint to be totally dry.
JB Weld will work but if the deck has corroded enough that you have pin holes you should use something that fills/coats a larger area. I recommend fiberglass reinforced body filler. After a thorough wire brush cleaning cover the entire thin corroded/mottled area. After this is done paint the entire deck underneath with epoxy primer.
 
Por patch has gone through my mind.
POR won't stay on very long, and the fiberglass reinforced body filler and epoxy primer repair will also have to be redone in 2-3 years. I have been nursing my Toro along for a few years by doing this.
 
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POR won't stay on very long, and the fiberglass reinforced body filler and epoxy primer repair will also have to be redone in 2-3 years. I have been nursing my Toro along for a few years by doing this.
I have some recommendations from someone that has had a patch long term on a deck. I’d be concerned with bondo type repairs because of their ability to absorb moisture if not well sealed, and POr does chip at the edges. POR patch is a different beast, but I’ll probably start with JB Weld. TBD once I start cleaning it.
 
I have some recommendations from someone that has had a patch long term on a deck. I’d be concerned with bondo type repairs because of their ability to absorb moisture if not well sealed, and POr does chip at the edges. POR patch is a different beast, but I’ll probably start with JB Weld. TBD once I start cleaning it.
Fiberglass reinforced body filler does not absorb moisture. It is recommended for boat/marine use. It does not need to be sealed. It makes a strong repair.
From experience I can tell you that this repair does work. Also, from experience, I can tell you what to expect.
The reason I told you that it needs to be redone in a few years is because the corrosion that has already started will progress and cause the body filler to start coming off around the margins of the repair as the corrosion works it's way under the repair. Spraying the entire underside of the deck with epoxy primer will delay this process but it will also wear off.
 
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Fiberglass reinforced body filler does not absorb moisture. It is recommended for boat/marine use. It does not need to be sealed. It makes a strong repair.
From experience I can tell you that this repair does work. Also, from experience, I can tell you what to expect.
The reason I told you that it needs to be redone in a few years is because the corrosion that has already started will progress and cause the body filler to start coming off around the margins of the repair as the corrosion works it's way under the repair. Spraying the entire underside of the deck with epoxy primer will delay this process but it will also wear off.
That’s good to know about the fiberglass filler. Thanks!
 
I used to think this was some kind of snake oil, magic elixir, but it actually works quite well to clean up deposits in carburetor internals on OPE. I believe it is very similar to Berryman's B12 Chem Tool and SeaFoam cleaners. It is currently on seasonal clearance at most WalMarts.

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So I didn’t have the product you linked to, but did have some gumout PEA cleaner stuff. I ran a heavy dose in the gas in the engine. It did a lot. The bogging or stalling when hot when the blade clutch is engaged/disengaged is essentially gone. So that’s a real positive.

Still want to pull apart the carb but now I have some more time. My wife cut the grass today, and I went out to grease the rear wheels. I’m impressed how well it packs grass in the bag!

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^^^^^ That is great bagging performance on your John Deere mower. I have the lower version with the 5 hp Briggs and Stratton Quantum engine and it bags good, but does not quite pack the bag like yours with the Kawasaki motor. I think you will be even more impressed with the mulching quality of the John Deere. It actually mulches better than my Toro Personal Pace Super Recycler with the same B & S engine.
 
^^^^^ That is great bagging performance on your John Deere mower. I have the lower version with the 5 hp Briggs and Stratton Quantum engine and it bags good, but does not quite pack the bag like yours with the Kawasaki motor. I think you will be even more impressed with the mulching quality of the John Deere. It actually mulches better than my Toro Personal Pace Super Recycler with the same B & S engine.
Thanks! Mine didn’t come with the mulching plug, but I just bought one. So I’m excited too!
 
JH, congrats on acquiring one of the best mowers ever built! I have 2 JX75 mowers and a 14SB and they are beasts! The oil filter housing is NLA from Deere but I was lucky enough to find a parts mower, the “14SB“ with one on it and moved it over to my worker JX75. I found my 2nd JX75 with mulch plug and bagger on CL a couple of years ago and jumped on it for $150.00 since they were discontinued about 25 years ago and theres literally nothing built today to compare them to and common parts are still readily available for them. I did clean the carb on the worker a few years ago and regularly give them a dose of B12.
 

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