I only purchase Phillips LED bulbs for the house. The other brands fail prematurely, and create RF noise. As an amateur radio operator, RF noise is simply unacceptable.
My '08 G35 has Xenon headlights and they lasted 130k miles and 11 years. Think aftermarkets will last anywhere close ?My 2006 car as far as I know has original incandescent bulbs.
That's where I bought the bulb I ended up replacing.You are best off going to Lowes / HD to buy the bulbs. They are on clearance half the time anyway.
I have 3, 400 lumen LED bulbs that have been burning 24/7 for the last 4 years in my garage. I think they are supposed to be drawing around 18 watts a piece. (or so says the box).I’ve had led bulbs fail in less than a year. Even if on 24 hours a day it’s nowhere near what’s claimed.
When I first bought 3157 LEDs for my wife’s GM because they kept burning out (and eventually melting their sockets—one failed the next day!), I tested myself and found it drew the 3.7 watts per specs. The originals were 27 watts.I have 3, 400 lumen LED bulbs that have been burning 24/7 for the last 4 years in my garage. I think they are supposed to be drawing around 18 watts a piece. (or so says the box).
I can't remember the make, but I'm sure they're made in China. I'm not sure if turning them on and off daily would shorten their life, or not.
This could be your bulb issue. Jump out the photocell see if the bulbs output changes.I have a few high lumen LED bulbs outside on a dusk till dawn photocell.
That's why I stick with GE or Cree LED bulbs. They have a heavy heatsink so the LEDs and circuitry stay cool. I'm just disappointed that there seems to be very little variation of Kelvin temp offered in led bulb form. If you have a way to measure lumen output I'd be curious to see what your bulbs actually are.This is getting as bad as a lot of the lumen ratings on Amazon LED Flashlights. I have a few high lumen LED bulbs outside on a dusk till dawn photocell. On one of my carriage lights in between the garage doors, I had a 3010 lumen rated LED bulb. (It's the one shown in the top link).
I replaced it with what is supposed to be a 6000 lumen "corn cob" LED bulb. (The one shown in the lower link). There is no way the new bulb is twice as bright. (3010 vs. 6000). They are both the same Kelvin rating, ("Daylight" not that yellowy "Soft White").
This is blatant false advertising. I honestly can't tell if it's any brighter at all. Then they keep trying to rate them using these silly "watts equivalent" ratings, that's supposed to compare the LED brightness, to that of a larger wattage incandescent light that isn't even being sold any longer.
It reminds me of that silly "Drams Equivalent" they rate shotgun shell power by. Comparing them to the equivalent of black powder from back in the 19th century, black powder era. That no one remotely cares about, or understands for that matter.
All of this seems to be getting worse as time passes. I love LED bulbs, but they really need to get their act together on how they rate these things in regard to brightness. Now they're all over the map.... Either by accident, or on purpose to boost sales... OK, rant over.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/GE-Ultra-B...QCVwqDsGL0FsGCK1kzsRADobHXcwwZ1BoC9QgQAvD_BwE
The photocell changes nothing. They're the same brightness as the identical bulb in a direct switched socket.This could be your bulb issue. Jump out the photocell see if the bulbs output changes.
Heat has never been an issue with any LED bulb I have used. Past or present. Including the ones I have on a timer in my shed, or the several I have in my attic.That's why I stick with GE or Cree LED bulbs. They have a heavy heatsink so the LEDs and circuitry stay cool. I'm just disappointed that there seems to be very little variation of Kelvin temp offered in led bulb form. If you have a way to measure lumen output I'd be curious to see what your bulbs actually are.