If you had to get a 5w30 that burns the least, which one would you pick out of these?

[thunderous1335]

I too thought stating with the cheapest as your brother is likely to try 'em all.
How badly is badly?
How does he keep track? ....#qt./1,000 miles? ...#qt./week? ....car lengths of opaque blue smoke?

1 qt at least per 1000 miles, no blue smoke

 

[thunderous1335]

Tell your brother to turn the night light off. Dual rated api sn ck4 15w-40 should be good enough in a smoker. Don't know anyone who would use that thin expensive oil in a burner. So forget all of that. Could also try 10w-40 or go 20w-50.

And before any woman starts mouthing about it being too thick I've ran 20w-50 in place of 5w-20 in my bygone ford out of curiosity over noise reduction and ran it like that for a 6k interval before going back to 5w-30 since it wasn't much noise reduction but a slight mpg hit in the first 10 minutes of warm up. Literally wont hurt an engine to go slightly up when its burning. If anything it hurts the engine less since there will be less carbon on the pistons and catalytic converter.

But as with anything why is it burning? have you tried the basics like the pcv and a strong engine flush.

What year, mileage, intervals, oil type, ect.

Planning on doing the flush today, PCV was done last week but it didn't help.

Less than 80k miles, he just got the car so he doesn't any records from the past owners

 

[thunderous1335]

View attachment 90420

Nope not happening. Not driving an hour to my closest NAPA

 

[thunderous1335]

Why would you choose a "syn" oil for an engine consuming oil? Bro needs to get over himself he is uninformed .

Chill a little. He assumed that the PP Euro and Castrol EP would be tougher oils than the regulars

 

[Warstud]

1 qt at least per 1000 miles, no blue smoke

That's alot and I dont think any oil is going help much. Like I said you need to try a piston soak.

 

[Malo83]

 

[PimTac]

What year is this car? How many miles on it?

 

[JavierH19]

Planning on doing the flush today, PCV was done last week but it didn't help.

Less than 80k miles, he just got the car so he doesn't any records from the past owners

Hope it didn't cost much. I'd go aggressive on the engine flush. two rounds of liqui moly on the same oil and run that for a few hours in one go and once it flashes off refill the engine with more flush. I'd suggest using 20w-50 in the flush run to minimize consumption since once it warms up 20w-50 is gonna get pretty thin and refill and leave it on the driveway on high idle with something putting a bit of weight on the pedal. No more than 2k rpm's for a couple hours closer to night when it's colder. Doubt it'll make much noise.

Also isn't the 1.6 turbocharged? if it is that could also be the issue. And if I'm not mistaken don't they have a 10y 100k warranty. But i think its non transferable to the next owner so maybe not.

 

[himemsys]

Planning on doing the flush today, PCV was done last week but it didn't help.

Less than 80k miles, he just got the car so he doesn't any records from the past owners

I'm not sure one week is enough time to determine whether changing the PCV helped or not.

 

[FordMan59]

I'm in agreement with others that if the car is using a considerable amount of oil increasing the weight and using cheaper oil would be the route to go. I've had a couple daily driver oil burners over the years and once they got so bad I would save the oil out of my better cars at oil change and use it for topping off oil in the burner. I did this in an oil burner/leaker for probably around a 100K miles and the engine was still going when I retired the car for other issues I didn't feel like addressing at 518K miles.

 

[FZ1]

For a Kia/Hyundai 1.6. Burning badly but my brother doesn't want go to thick yet like 0w40.

Shelf 5w30 options are the following:

-PP Euro $25
-Castrol Edge EP $27.50
-Valvoline Maxlife Synthetic $22.50
-M1 EP High Mileage $29.50

M1 EP HM. 11.80 vis.