If you had to get a 5w30 that burns the least, which one would you pick out of these?

T

thunderous1335

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Location
SoCal
For a Kia/Hyundai 1.6. Burning badly but my brother doesn't want go to thick yet like 0w40.

Shelf 5w30 options are the following:

-PP Euro $25
-Castrol Edge EP $27.50
-Valvoline Maxlife Synthetic $22.50
-M1 EP High Mileage $29.50
 
Burning? Not much will help if the rings are shot. If the burning is caused by stuck rings you could try Valvoline Blue Restore. For a few OCI's to see if that frees up the rings.

If those are the only four options go with the Valvoline Maxlife. Cheapest option which has merit since you will likely be topping off the oil.
 
I too thought stating with the cheapest as your brother is likely to try 'em all.
How badly is badly?
How does he keep track? ....#qt./1,000 miles? ...#qt./week? ....car lengths of opaque blue smoke?
 
Mobil 1 HM is slightly thicker than M1 EP HM (11.9 vs 11.8 KVM) and $2 cheaper per 5qt jug. I do agree with the other comments about MaxLife synthetic blend though. If you're going to be topping off and not doing extended drain intervals, then why waste money on EP oils.
 
I would try a Piston Soak first and if that doesn't help you could use a Straight 30W since your in SoCal. Like others said.....a synthetic is the worst option.
 
If you think the rings are stuck there was a recent post where a guy fixed severe oil burning in a KIA.

2015 Kia Optima LX QT/300 Miles Oil Burned Solved/Fixed

This is my first post here so hello everyone. Little about me: I'm a wrencher who likes to DIY to save money and to have a peace of mind that the job will get done right. I can do most of the combustion engine car maintenance, save for taking the engine out. I do not have the garage space for...
bobistheoilguy.com
 
Tell your brother to turn the night light off. Dual rated api sn ck4 15w-40 should be good enough in a smoker. Don't know anyone who would use that thin expensive oil in a burner. So forget all of that. Could also try 10w-40 or go 20w-50.

And before any woman starts mouthing about it being too thick I've ran 20w-50 in place of 5w-20 in my bygone ford out of curiosity over noise reduction and ran it like that for a 6k interval before going back to 5w-30 since it wasn't much noise reduction but a slight mpg hit in the first 10 minutes of warm up. Literally wont hurt an engine to go slightly up when its burning. If anything it hurts the engine less since there will be less carbon on the pistons and catalytic converter.

But as with anything why is it burning? have you tried the basics like the pcv and a strong engine flush.

What year, mileage, intervals, oil type, ect.
 
thunderous1335 said:
For a Kia/Hyundai 1.6. Burning badly but my brother doesn't want go to thick yet like 0w40.

Shelf 5w30 options are the following:

-PP Euro $25
-Castrol Edge EP $27.50
-Valvoline Maxlife Synthetic $22.50
-M1 EP High Mileage $29.50
Click to expand...

What are your oil change intervals?

What is the consumption rate?
(Bad to me means, fill it up with 10 gallons of fuel and 1 qt of oil)

I would start with the VML if those are my options.

Honestly is you are replacing the entire sump capacity every 1500 mi just buy the cheapest stuff in the heaviest grade that's in the owner's manual.
 
Gene K said:
What are your oil change intervals?

What is the consumption rate?
(Bad to me means, fill it up with 10 gallons of fuel and 1 qt of oil)

I would start with the VML if those are my options.

Honestly is you are replacing the entire sump capacity every 1500 mi just buy the cheapest stuff in the heaviest grade that's in the owner's manual.
Click to expand...
literally. Thats why lower saps dual rated 15w-40 thats about $12 a gallon would be the best choice or 20w-50 syn blend for about $16 for 5qt's wont hurt anything. Outside of the us Hyundai and Mitsubishi engines run everything from 20 to 50 grade.
 
Wow, people are much bigger spenders than me! if I had a serious oil burner I’d NEVER EVER consider Mobil1 EP, or Castrol Edge EP. Heck, I have a perfectly fine running engine that I love and it took some convincing for me to spend $29 bucks on Mobil1 EP.

If I had an oil burner THAT bad, I’d put the cheapest conventional I could get my hands on in it. Heck, I’d put an add on Facebook market place asking for free used oil (3,000 mile users). And then I’d pick it up and put THAT in it. I’m kind of kidding, yet I don’t know? Maybe I’d consider that? I might.
 
JavierH19 said:
literally. Thats why lower saps dual rated 15w-40 thats about $12 a gallon would be the best choice or 20w-50 syn blend for about $16 for 5qt's wont hurt anything. Outside of the us Hyundai and Mitsubishi engines run everything from 20 to 50 grade.
Click to expand...

Some of the Hyundai Guys have a lifetime engine warranty and some US Owner's Manuals allow up to 20W-50 (low temp allowing) so that's why I suggested staying with the max in the manual.

I've actually cut consumption in half by switching from a 5W-30 PCMO to 10W-30 HDEO in the past. (From one quart every 1500 mi to one every 3000 mi).
 
thunderous1335 said:
For a Kia/Hyundai 1.6. Burning badly but my brother doesn't want go to thick yet like 0w40.

Shelf 5w30 options are the following:

-PP Euro $25
-Castrol Edge EP $27.50
-Valvoline Maxlife Synthetic $22.50
-M1 EP High Mileage $29.50
Click to expand...
Has the PCV been changed yet. My buddy has a Hyundai 4 cylinder and in the book it mentions to change the pcv at certain intervals. He was having oil burning issues before and is now experiencing less burning.
 
S. CA?
M1 EP 10W-30
Your 4th choice revised a little.

Burns none or very little in all my cars compared with any other oil I've ever used! Granted I'm talking about oil related issues and not the engine (e.g. rings, valves, etc.)

I still have 2 jugs that I bought for $24.xx and $22.xx. Waiting few more months and planning on selling them for $99 per jug. ;)
Should have stashed more!
 
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