I have have put a lot of thought into this oil.

[BrocLuno]

The easy way to take the filter out is to find an oversized filter that fits and has the same or higher by-pass rating. The increased filter area will lower restriction more than any brand change and it'll filter better, longer. And it will add total capacity to the crankcase system so you have more clean oil available for spirited driving. Same price usually ...

Engines with larger capacity sump and oiling systems tend to last longer

You want fuel savings, run "greeen" tires (I hate them, but they do work). They just don't stick all that well

Run them inflated well.

Change any incandescent bulb in the system to LED. Lighting ain't free, it takes power to make electricity...

Add flexible front spoiler to get more clean air around the car and less under. Or, lower the car to reduce overall frontal area plus dirty air under.

Reduce cruising speed 10% (say 70 down to 63) it will make more difference than all the oil changes, filters and other tricks you can think of. Air resistance goes up with the Square of the velocity ...

 

[Mathew_Boss]

Originally Posted By: NibbanaBanana
I vote that you do your oil filter test and see if there's any difference and report back. I for one, would be interested to hear the results. Take a good long OCI like 10K or so.

Seems like the consensus is that there won't be a difference. Me, I'm never too sure about anything these days. Try it.


I did a test like this with my 13 lancer and RP gave me about 2 mpg better then mobil one or pennzoil platinum filters. But I had variablesome like different brands of gas and so on. Also my lancer only computed 4 hour averages. This Focus keeps track of trip average and running average. This will be a much better test with the exception of the RP I'm running first so with break in accounted for if it stays the same the RP could still be better. The relief valve is very different from the two brands though.

Here are the specs for the two I tried on my Lancer

M1 M1-110
Manufacturer: Champion Laboratories
Part Number: M1-110
Media Type: Cellulose + Synthetic Blend (Polyester)
Micron Rating: 25μm Nominal
By-pass Valve Rating: 13psi
Flow Rate: 3gpm
Burst Pressure: 300psi
Media Surface Area: 105 sq in
Pleat Count: 49
Drain Back Value Material: Nitrile
Country of Manufacture: USA

RP
Manufacturer: Champion Laboratories
Part Number: 10-2867
Media Type: Synthetic
Micron Rating: 25μm Nominal
By-pass Valve Rating: 11-17psi
Flow Rate: 9-11gpm
Burst Pressure: 600psi
Media Surface Area: 72sq in
Pleat Count: 32
Drain Back Value Material: Nitrile
Country of Manufacture: USA

I'm guessing the flow rate is what caused the better mileage in my lancer. Didn't care enough to really look into it for this ford... I figured I would try purolator since they make motorcraft. With this car is can go up to a year on an oil change so it's cheaper to maintain for warranty then my lancer. Also insurance went down about $50 a month. It makes a great family car with a little one on the way.

 

[Shannow]

It doesn't work that way.

Just because a filter manufacturer puts a flow rate into a data sheet DOESN'T mean that the pump shifts more oil through it...

It's a positive displacement pump...moves the same amount every revolution, regardless of filter.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: BobsArmory
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: FutureDoc
I (personally) will never use it as it is a BP product. See: Gulf of Mexico/Deepwater Horizon.

And which major oil company has not had some kind of a spill disaster in its past?



Truth


+1 Price William Sound immediately comes to mind.

 

[kschachn]

His report of a difference (if any) will not be representative of the effect of the oil filter.

The OP mentioned a long measurement period to randomize variables. This is a valid statistical technique but it is always reserved for a small number of uncontrollable variables, not the entire experiment. Look at it this way. Let's take one variable such as air temperature. In order to randomize just that one variable the test would have to be run long enough that the effects of temperature have become standardized. How long would this take? Well it is going to take at least one year for sure since you'd have to go through all the seasons. But not all years are the same. Some years have warm summers and some cool, some years have cold winters and some warm. So you have to test for enough years to the point that the temperature has evened out to some average value. How many years is that? I'm sure there is meteorological data available that would aid in calculating such a parameter but I have no idea what the result would be. I can guess it will be much longer than one year. Along that time though there are other, assumed fixed variables that will be changing. If it takes 10 years for example, then in that 10 years the engine itself has changed. It is now 10 years older and wear must be accounted for.

Go ahead and ridicule the seemingly laboratory conditions I'm advocating but it illustrates just how fiendishly difficult real-world testing can be. There's a reason tests such as the OP wishes to do are performed in a laboratory.

Getting "data" is only useful if the data that is obtained can be statistically correlated to the item under test. This test has none of that.

Originally Posted By: NibbanaBanana
I vote that you do your oil filter test and see if there's any difference and report back. I for one, would be interested to hear the results. Take a good long OCI like 10K or so.

Seems like the consensus is that there won't be a difference. Me, I'm never too sure about anything these days. Try it.

 

[zuluplus30]

Originally Posted By: Mathew_Boss
Bought a new 2016 Focus. 2.0L GDI. I know GDI's mean two things, fuel dilution and deposits. So I went looking for a very thick 5w-20 that also tests well in the TEOST.

I settled on Castrol Edge EP (Gold Bottle). 100* Cst is 8.9, higher then PUP or Synpower. It also scored the best in Amsoil's 2013 TEOST test. I will be following the IOLM with a maximum of 1 year or 10k miles. I am going to test 3 filters for gas mileage, RP, Purolator Boss and the Purolator One. Which ever gives me the best mpg's will win. Thoughts?

Also, my top off oil will be GTX Magnatec 5w-20. Its Cst is 9.1


My honest thoughts? You need another hobby.

I do think its ironic that you're choosing the thickest 20W you can find and then worried about oil filter flow rates and how it relates to MPG. Almost anything else you can name would have a higher statistical difference in MPG than what oil filter you use. In keeping with your obvious desire to maintain your engine to the nth degree (as assumed by your oil choice), why would you not also choose the highest micron filter you could?

 

[Garak]

Originally Posted By: Mathew_Boss
I did a test like this with my 13 lancer and RP gave me about 2 mpg better then mobil one or pennzoil platinum filters. But I had variablesome like different brands of gas and so on. Also my lancer only computed 4 hour averages.

This is the problem. You claim the RP filter gave you the 2 mpg better, yet you acknowledge not to have taken care of variables. Your change in fuel economy is, unfortunately, below the error bar anyhow. A change from a headwind to a tailwind will affect things much more than that, alone.

 

[Justin251]

An oil filter affecting gas mileage is new to me. I don't even think the hyper milers do this.

There's so many other things that have bigger effects. A/C, tire pressure, tire size, gas quality, etc etc including your foot.

 

[440Magnum]

Originally Posted By: Mathew_Boss


It won't be perfect but over the course of day 7 to 10 thousand miles it will cover a wide range of variables


To resolve the 1/1000th of an mpg that a change in filter design could POSSIBLY cause, it won't be nearly enough. There isn't any instrumentation you could afford that could measure to that level of accuracy, its nuts to even think about it. If you want economy, buy the cheapest oil filter that won't actually shorten the engine life, don't look for one that "saves fuel" because in all practical terms an oil filter simply cannot do that.

The previous poster was joking about the RP being heavy, but the honest truth is that the weight is going to make just about as much practical difference as the internals of the filter are!

Of course IMO the RP is also the best of the ones you listed, followed by the Fram Ultra.

 

[Gene K]

The number 1 fuel economy mod is the nut behind the wheel.