Originally Posted By: stevejones
Thanks for the tips, sciphi! Right now my game plan is to get the Delco filters from Amazon, run good ol' Mobil 1 for 5K intervals, and dump the factory fill at 1K miles.
To break in the engine, I've been driving it like I stole it - you kinda have to, anyways, to keep up with the pace of traffic in my area. While I have purchased many new vehicles, this method has always served me well in the past.
And as long as gas prices are relatively low, I might just run mid-grade in winter. I haven't even done the first fill-up yet.
So far, it's been a good honeymoon. The car has performed flawlessly...for week 1...lol.
ETA: And since I'm in the rust-belt, a gallon of Fluid Film is on the way!
Good plan! For the filter, a 24mm socket on a 6" or longer extension is the best way I've found to get at the cap on the filter canister. Put a paper towel down onto the transmission to catch any drips. Also, any little bit of spilled oil will run down the block and drip from many different places. Plus it will get into the spark plug wells.
Oh, about the spark plugs, pull them and re-gap them. Gap should be 0.028", although some folks have reported success with gaps up to 0.034". This helps smooth out the engine, as factory gaps from NGK can be wildly different.
For spraying Fluid Film, it's very easy and effective to pull out the rubber plugs on the rocker panels to spray inside the rockers. I do this religiously, as every GM car my family's owned has rusted from the rockers first. Also inside the doors, as mine has a little puddle from the driver's door after a car wash or rain. Other than that, the plastic wheel well liners are fairly effective at suppressing salt spray. I'd pull them now when the car's new, and coat underneath. After that, it's up to you whether or not to pull them yearly. The plastic fasteners come out easily with a fork, or proper body panel tool set. Just watch out for the T20 screws and random 10mm screws scattered throughout.
