HVAC vacuum pump for Mini Split?

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Jun 13, 2016
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AZ
Anybody recommend a reasonable vacuum pump for a mini split install?

I have a super old abused HF pump that’s well over 10-years old and I think it’s best I retire it and get something new for a mini split install I’m doing - really want to be sure I can pull around 200-300 microns.

Any suggestions?
 
FWIW I had my Mitsubishi mini-split installed a few years ago by a couple of very good professional AC installers that worked for a Mitsubishi approved dealer. I watched and talked to them throughout he entire process and they were VERY emphatic that the mini-splits needed to be very well purged and have a very good vacuum in them. A lot more so than a normal AC system due to the smaller pumps and smaller lines and orifices.

They vacuumed my system, then purged it with dry nitrogen, then pressurized it with nitrogen and closed it off and watched it for almost an hour to be sure that it didn't leak under pressure. They then vacuumed it again, and added some Freon, they then purged it again and then pulled a very low vacuum on it and ran the vacuum pump for about 4 hours until they got a very low pressure. Then they monitored it for an hour to be sure that it held that vacuum before they finally topped it all with the required amount of Freon. I've never seen anyone work on an AC system that purged and checked as much as they did or that checked the system both under vacuum and under pressure. Even after the equipment was installed and fully connected, it literally took them about 7 hours just to vacumm, purge, vacuum, test, test and retest and then fill with freon. I don't remember how low of a vacuum that they pulled but it was VERY low. Low enough that you couldn't read it with a normal AC vacuum gauge. They showed me their gauge and it was some kind of very expensive electronic gauge that would read much lower than the usual AC gauges.

Before I bought my mini-split, I got a copy of the Mitsubishi installation manuals and read them and they were very insistent about the LOW pressures that needed to be used in the system and the need to repeatedly purge the system with inert gas. After reading the manuals I decided that the necessary equipment was too expensive to buy just for my personal use so I paid to have the system professionally installed. As they were installing the system I told that to the installers and they laughed and told me that about 80% of their work was going back after people had installed their own systems and then installing them correctly and with the proper purging, testing, etc and at the required low and high pressures. They also told me that they charge as much, and sometime more, to fix people's mistakes than they did to do a proper installation in the first place.

The Mitsubishi installation manuals are online, go download them and read them.

The bottom line to me was that the VERY good vacuum pump and the Very GOOD gauges that were required would cost more than the cost (~$1000) of the installation. I already had Helium, Argon and dry Nitrogen gas and the proper regulators and such so I didn't even include the cost of any of that.

YMMV.
 
FWIW I had my Mitsubishi mini-split installed a few years ago by a couple of very good professional AC installers that worked for a Mitsubishi approved dealer. I watched and talked to them throughout he entire process and they were VERY emphatic that the mini-splits needed to be very well purged and have a very good vacuum in them. A lot more so than a normal AC system due to the smaller pumps and smaller lines and orifices.

They vacuumed my system, then purged it with dry nitrogen, then pressurized it with nitrogen and closed it off and watched it for almost an hour to be sure that it didn't leak under pressure. They then vacuumed it again, and added some Freon, they then purged it again and then pulled a very low vacuum on it and ran the vacuum pump for about 4 hours until they got a very low pressure. Then they monitored it for an hour to be sure that it held that vacuum before they finally topped it all with the required amount of Freon. I've never seen anyone work on an AC system that purged and checked as much as they did or that checked the system both under vacuum and under pressure. Even after the equipment was installed and fully connected, it literally took them about 7 hours just to vacumm, purge, vacuum, test, test and retest and then fill with freon. I don't remember how low of a vacuum that they pulled but it was VERY low. Low enough that you couldn't read it with a normal AC vacuum gauge. They showed me their gauge and it was some kind of very expensive electronic gauge that would read much lower than the usual AC gauges.

Before I bought my mini-split, I got a copy of the Mitsubishi installation manuals and read them and they were very insistent about the LOW pressures that needed to be used in the system and the need to repeatedly purge the system with inert gas. After reading the manuals I decided that the necessary equipment was too expensive to buy just for my personal use so I paid to have the system professionally installed. As they were installing the system I told that to the installers and they laughed and told me that about 80% of their work was going back after people had installed their own systems and then installing them correctly and with the proper purging, testing, etc and at the required low and high pressures. They also told me that they charge as much, and sometime more, to fix people's mistakes than they did to do a proper installation in the first place.

The Mitsubishi installation manuals are online, go download them and read them.

The bottom line to me was that the VERY good vacuum pump and the Very GOOD gauges that were required would cost more than the cost (~$1000) of the installation. I already had Helium, Argon and dry Nitrogen gas and the proper regulators and such so I didn't even include the cost of any of that.

YMMV.
I did Mitsubishis “triple evacuation” procedure and breaking vacuum with nitrogen between steps. I followed the manual to a T. It is, as you said, a process to vacuum and pressure test the system. I pressure tested mine for 24 hours at 600 psi with nitrogen. The gauge set I used was 300$ with self sealing hoses, about 200$ for 2 stage pump, nitrogen regulator pressure test kit with 40 cu. Ft of nitrogen was about 350$, 2 20 micron rated valve core tools 140$, scale 190$, micron gauge 160$. So your estimate of 1000$ worth of equipment is right on. I bought all quality stuff, not cheap tools. Still saved thousands on the installation.

Not sure why they would add refrigerant just to remove it and vacuum it again, unless there was an issue. Doesn’t make any sense nor is that step in the vacuuming/pressure testing/charging instructions in the Mitsubishi manual.
 

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They didn't add a full charge of Freon the first time. I think that and the final vacuuming was just to flush most of the Nitrogen out of the system.
 
They didn't add a full charge of Freon the first time. I think that and the final vacuuming was just to flush most of the Nitrogen out of the system.

I got that from what you said. It specifically states do not break vacuum with refrigerant so not sure why they added any at all unless they were completely charging it which is what I was getting at.
 
I bought the CPS VG200 micron gauge - now is what to use for a vacuum pump.
I'm leaning towards the 3cfm Harbor Freight to try and save a few dollars, and if it doesn't perform well enough, my micron gauge will tell me. I have time on my side so I can let it run for a long time.

Now the other piece as you mentioned is the dry nitrogen....Any idea if any shops will let me rent a cylinder and regulator rather than buying it? Problem is I really dont want to store a container of nitrogen in my garage which hits 120F in the summer (and the cylinders I read say not to store at 120F, I assume for explosions).

Any ideas if that exists, or do all supply houses only sell?
 
You can buy or rent tanks from just about any welding supply company and they can sell you the gas and a regulator. AFIK the tank, regulator and the thread connection is the same as those used for other low pressure inert gasses (Not CO2) that are used for welding like Argon and Helium. Companies like Air Products can sell you just about an gas known to man, and not just welding gasses.

I also have a small handheld device with a female Schrader valve that uses something like a CO2 cartridge but with Nitrogen in them and a bit longer that can be used to purge AC systems but I don't know who sells them. The only identifying mark on it is a styled what-looks-like PaL. The cartridges are a bit longer than a CO2 in order to keep you from using those in it. It's something that I found in a pile of surplus equipment and I just held onto it thinking that it might be useful someday.
 
Your old pump may still be fine, I would try changing the oil in it and seeing how low it can pull before you go out and buy a new one.
 
I bought the CPS VG200 micron gauge - now is what to use for a vacuum pump.
I'm leaning towards the 3cfm Harbor Freight to try and save a few dollars, and if it doesn't perform well enough, my micron gauge will tell me. I have time on my side so I can let it run for a long time.

Now the other piece as you mentioned is the dry nitrogen....Any idea if any shops will let me rent a cylinder and regulator rather than buying it? Problem is I really dont want to store a container of nitrogen in my garage which hits 120F in the summer (and the cylinders I read say not to store at 120F, I assume for explosions).

Any ideas if that exists, or do all supply houses only sell?
Nitrogen is almost completely inert is not an explosion hazard. It will not burn or even support combustion except for with magnesium and some other very rare metals. The tanks that it usually comes in are rated for about 3000 PSI but can handle a LOT higher presure than that and also have pressure relief valves in them so they should be completely safe at 120 degrees.
 
I bought the CPS VG200 micron gauge - now is what to use for a vacuum pump.
I'm leaning towards the 3cfm Harbor Freight to try and save a few dollars, and if it doesn't perform well enough, my micron gauge will tell me. I have time on my side so I can let it run for a long time.

Now the other piece as you mentioned is the dry nitrogen....Any idea if any shops will let me rent a cylinder and regulator rather than buying it? Problem is I really dont want to store a container of nitrogen in my garage which hits 120F in the summer (and the cylinders I read say not to store at 120F, I assume for explosions).

Any ideas if that exists, or do all supply houses only sell?

I used that micron gauge. It worked great. I used it with a T adapter.
 
Your old pump may still be fine, I would try changing the oil in it and seeing how low it can pull before you go out and buy a new one.
How can I check how low it will pull?

Also I just scored big on Craigslist - picked up a nitrogen tank and TurboTorch regulator for $65! The regulator and tank look almost new!! Super excited that I can now properly pressure test and triple evacuate the system when I’m ready.
 
How can I check how low it will pull?

With your micron gauge.

You could put it directly on the pump, although some say that could potentially contaminate the gauge. I would just start by connecting it to your manifold, see how many microns you can pull with your existing setup.
 
I have a Robinair 15600 vacuum pump that I use for automotive AC but it's probably overkill for that but would work great for a house system. I bought it new in 2007 and have used it many times over the years and it still works like new. I do change the oil in it after every use per the owner's manual.
 
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