I am leaning heavily toward the 345. Each saw has the same retail price, but I found a dealer that will sell the Husky saw $50 below MSRP. Should I haggle a Stihl dealer to come to a similar arrangement, or is the Husky just as good? All the reviews I have found put the two neck and neck, with ease of service going to the Stihl. Any opinions, please voice. Thanks.
Husky 345 or Stihl MS250?
- Thread starter lobo11
- Start date
- Status
I suspect that for general homeowner use, either will serve you well for many years. Those are certainly head & shoulders above the Poulans & McCullochs. I've had a Husky 51(became the 350, I think) for 9 yrs now, & have been happy with it. When those huge oak limbs come crashing down, it just buzzes right through them! I'm sure I'd have been equally happy with an equivalent Stihl.
$50? Hmm.. what is easier to service on the Stihl- air filter, chain adjustment? If you think you'll be using the saw a great deal, then the Stihl might be worth the extra $$. For $50 less I'd buy the Husky, but that's just me.
Whichever you get, I'd recommend some kind of hardshell case for it.
$50? Hmm.. what is easier to service on the Stihl- air filter, chain adjustment? If you think you'll be using the saw a great deal, then the Stihl might be worth the extra $$. For $50 less I'd buy the Husky, but that's just me.
Whichever you get, I'd recommend some kind of hardshell case for it.
I have a Husky 345, I like the saw very much. It has fantastic power, cuts fast and is smooth.
However I had to purchase an 18 inch bar and Stihl chain, as the OEM chain is absolute crap. The cut rate is more than twice as fast with the good Stihl chain!
I got the Stihl full chisel chain, cannot remember the p/n to save my life. The chain is "homeowner" size and as such, there are not many choices.
If I were to do it again, I would go with a nice Stihl with the industrial chain.
Sorry I cannot be more specific, but the chain pitch is different between homeowner models and pro models.
IMHO, the pro chains are much safer, even though this is more risk of kickback. Those homeowner chains cut so slowly and wear out while doing so. Then the homeowner quality chains may just jump off the bar and cut you up. Ask me how I know. I used to heat with wood. Plenty of experience.
However I had to purchase an 18 inch bar and Stihl chain, as the OEM chain is absolute crap. The cut rate is more than twice as fast with the good Stihl chain!
I got the Stihl full chisel chain, cannot remember the p/n to save my life. The chain is "homeowner" size and as such, there are not many choices.
If I were to do it again, I would go with a nice Stihl with the industrial chain.
Sorry I cannot be more specific, but the chain pitch is different between homeowner models and pro models.
IMHO, the pro chains are much safer, even though this is more risk of kickback. Those homeowner chains cut so slowly and wear out while doing so. Then the homeowner quality chains may just jump off the bar and cut you up. Ask me how I know. I used to heat with wood. Plenty of experience.
I have the Stihl MS250 and I'm very pleased with it FWIW.
The dealer I went to sold Stihls and Huskys and I asked which one was the better chainsaw (price not an issue). He said I should buy the Stihl.
I didn't ask why, so it could have been he makes more money on the Stihls, or it could be that they're better.
The dealer I went to sold Stihls and Huskys and I asked which one was the better chainsaw (price not an issue). He said I should buy the Stihl.
I didn't ask why, so it could have been he makes more money on the Stihls, or it could be that they're better.
One more point, I was camping this weekend and a guy I met had a Husky chainsaw. I'm pretty sure that Husky was quieter than the Stihl. If that's a factor for you, you might want to look at the Db ratings and compare the two.
Steve128's linked article is a good one. Like the article said, my Stihl was extremely difficult to start when new. However, after cutting a half cord of wood, and once you get the feel of the engine slightly catching on full choke (which is subtle) you can start it on 3 pulls from cold.
It's a one pull start when warm. I think it needed to break in a bit as the article pointed out. Good to know I got the first place finisher with the only issue being hard starting. That issue has absolutely resolved itself after a little break in.
[ June 28, 2006, 12:46 PM: Message edited by: Jim 5 ]
Steve128's linked article is a good one. Like the article said, my Stihl was extremely difficult to start when new. However, after cutting a half cord of wood, and once you get the feel of the engine slightly catching on full choke (which is subtle) you can start it on 3 pulls from cold.
It's a one pull start when warm. I think it needed to break in a bit as the article pointed out. Good to know I got the first place finisher with the only issue being hard starting. That issue has absolutely resolved itself after a little break in.
[ June 28, 2006, 12:46 PM: Message edited by: Jim 5 ]
Okay, what about this. I can get the Husky 350e for the same price as the Stihl MS250. This upgrade adds about 7cc I think. I think the 45cc should be enough for my expected usage, but you never know right? If I decided to spend the extra for the same cc Stihl, should I just bust up to the larger Husky at the same price?? To be honest I am leaning toward the 345, but if you guys think the extra displacement would be worth it in the long run, maybe I will pony up past the 45cc Stihl and go with the larger Husky. Thanks guys, it is appreciated.
Get the Husky 345 you want. It is a good choice and you save $ 50.00 over the Stihl MS250.
With the money saved and a little more buy chaps and other protective gear!
You may want to check out Arboristsite.com Very informative and helpful. Much like this board but with more "earthy" language.
Good Luck
With the money saved and a little more buy chaps and other protective gear!
You may want to check out Arboristsite.com Very informative and helpful. Much like this board but with more "earthy" language.
Good Luck
I think the Husky 350 is a better saw than the 345. It has a compression release and I believe (not sure) it uses a bigger chain pitch.
I stand by my statement. The stihl is a better saw, and you will be happier in the long run with the Stihl.
To make the 345 work as well as a Stihl will cost you more money than to buy the Stihl in the first place.
Service on Husky saws sucks. Service on Stihl is everywhere.
Chris
I stand by my statement. The stihl is a better saw, and you will be happier in the long run with the Stihl.
To make the 345 work as well as a Stihl will cost you more money than to buy the Stihl in the first place.
Service on Husky saws sucks. Service on Stihl is everywhere.
Chris
According to the service search function on their website I have service centers all around me, how good they are might be another thing. Thanks to everyone for all the advice. I really have to do some soul searching, and some number crunching.
JHZR2
Staff member
I just went through the same decision. my dealer sells both saws. either are good machines, imho it comes down to which dealer you like better.
I bought the ms250, the dealer says they sell a ton of them, including to the USFS, and they rarely get them in for repairs. I was leaning toward stihl anyway. I run oregon chains. remember to pick up at least one extra chain and the proper sized file/guide.
I bought the ms250, the dealer says they sell a ton of them, including to the USFS, and they rarely get them in for repairs. I was leaning toward stihl anyway. I run oregon chains. remember to pick up at least one extra chain and the proper sized file/guide.
stihl,stihl,stihl, thats all to be said...
This is logging country here in northern Idaho and the rivalry between Stihl and Husky is strong. They both make excellent saws, I tend to like the features of the Stihl a bit better and have owned two now for quite a while, my 038 Magnum 11 Stihl is now 20 years old and going strong. This saw has cut many LARGE piles of firewood (I no longer log full-time).
I use skip-tooth chisel bit chains and use a square file configuration. Used to hand file but got lazy and bought a bench-mount grinder.
I highly recommend the skip-tooth chisel bit chain.
Joe
I use skip-tooth chisel bit chains and use a square file configuration. Used to hand file but got lazy and bought a bench-mount grinder.
I highly recommend the skip-tooth chisel bit chain.
Joe
Yup. This is logging country in western Montana too, and Stile and Husqvarna are considered the top two saws. I don't think you can go wrong with either.
However, do not buy more saw than you need for your particular purposes, taking into account what you will be sawing and how much of it and how often. Three years ago I took a perfectly good Jonserud semi-pro saw that I'd owned for about 15 years to the shop for replacement of a major part. I loved that saw and paid quite a bit for it. The shop said the part was unavailable because the major manufacturers no longer make and stock replacement parts for longer than a 7-10 year period for a given model of saw. I was shocked. I'm at the stage where for the past 20 years I don't use a chainsaw a lot so a good saw lasts me a long time. But not if I can't get parts for it 7-10 years after I buy it. The Jonserud was useless to me. So I bought a new Poulan that was just good enough for my uses, instead of one that was a step up in size and power (which is what I really wanted) and a step up in quality (which for me means Stihl or Husky). I chose the lower priced Poulan because its good quality and I got a 40% discount on it by buying it from the hardware store that one of my sons manages. He sold only Poulans and I get a big discount on anything I buy there, usually about 40%. Eat your hearts out. When we visit him (he lives 75 miles from us) we take the pickup. Guess why.
However, do not buy more saw than you need for your particular purposes, taking into account what you will be sawing and how much of it and how often. Three years ago I took a perfectly good Jonserud semi-pro saw that I'd owned for about 15 years to the shop for replacement of a major part. I loved that saw and paid quite a bit for it. The shop said the part was unavailable because the major manufacturers no longer make and stock replacement parts for longer than a 7-10 year period for a given model of saw. I was shocked. I'm at the stage where for the past 20 years I don't use a chainsaw a lot so a good saw lasts me a long time. But not if I can't get parts for it 7-10 years after I buy it. The Jonserud was useless to me. So I bought a new Poulan that was just good enough for my uses, instead of one that was a step up in size and power (which is what I really wanted) and a step up in quality (which for me means Stihl or Husky). I chose the lower priced Poulan because its good quality and I got a 40% discount on it by buying it from the hardware store that one of my sons manages. He sold only Poulans and I get a big discount on anything I buy there, usually about 40%. Eat your hearts out. When we visit him (he lives 75 miles from us) we take the pickup. Guess why.
I went with the Husky. I got two free replacement Oregon chains with the purchase. the $50 cheaper plus the two additonal chains for free made the decision easy. In addition since Jonsered & Husky are the same saw, I have additional service/retailers to use in the future. If what jmacmaster says is true about parts, maybe I should stock up on some replacement parts. Any parts you all would recommend to keep in reserve that ususally go out after some years?? I know my dad cannot get a new clutch for his Poulan so it is pretty much useless unless he can find used. Thanks again for all the suggestions, it was/is appreciated.
Other than keeping a spare air filter & spark plug on hand, I dunno what might be good to get. Congrats on your new saw, enjoy it. (Curious- did you get a hardshell case for it? I had to buy mine separately way back when.)
I've always run Chevron Super Unleaded in my Husky model 51(my owner's manual has a minimum octane rating, 87 is too low), with 2-cycle oil & fuel stabilizer mixed carefully, & it's always started easily & revved right up. Still has the factory plug in it!
And on advice from an excellent small engine mechanic, I *never* run last year's gas in it.
I've always run Chevron Super Unleaded in my Husky model 51(my owner's manual has a minimum octane rating, 87 is too low), with 2-cycle oil & fuel stabilizer mixed carefully, & it's always started easily & revved right up. Still has the factory plug in it!
No hardshell case, but I will probably get one, or the powerbox for Christmas or something. I found Jonsered bar & chain lube at a local dealer for $5.99/gallon, as opposed to $3.23 for 1 quart of the Husky bar & chain that I found. I am thinking after reading some threads on the board dealing with two cycle oils, of running Mobil 1 Racing 2T at 3oz./gallon of gas, which works out to be about 43:1 or something. I contacted Husqvarna's help/questions page and asked them since Jonsered & Husky are basically the same saw, if Jonsered labeled products can be substituted for Husky labeled products--I just want to hear what they say. I really have some nice timing as I have some storm damage to clean-up this weekend, I am anticipating good times!!
Lobo11,
Good luck getting an answer from Husky. I e-mailed them about what mixing ratio to use because the owner's manual says 40-1, while the bottle of oil that came with the saw said 50-1. Never got an answer back. Not very good customer service IMHO.
I use M1 2T in all my 2stroke yard equipment at 40-1. Very little smoke and great performance. Good luck with your storm damage clean-up.
Good luck getting an answer from Husky. I e-mailed them about what mixing ratio to use because the owner's manual says 40-1, while the bottle of oil that came with the saw said 50-1. Never got an answer back. Not very good customer service IMHO.
I use M1 2T in all my 2stroke yard equipment at 40-1. Very little smoke and great performance. Good luck with your storm damage clean-up.
- Status
Similar threads
