How reliable is the 3.0L V6 vs the 2.2L 4 cylinders in the 1997-2001 Camrys?

[mosaud1998]

My dad owned a 1998 Toyota Camry LE w/the 4 cylinders. It was pretty smooth and reliable. The only major thing that went out on it was the oil pump seal at around 160k miles. We sold the car back in 2019 with 190k~ miles due to rust.

I got a job offer that is a bit far from my house. So, I kind of what to keep the miles on the BMW low. Hence, I have my eyes on a 1999 Toyota Camry XLE V6 at a local mom-and-pop dealer. Car's got 123k miles on it. The dealer is asking $4,495. Looks super clean. Maybe too clean to use as a "beater"

What do you guys think I should offer?

 

[supton]

Subscribing as I see “deals” like this all the time. Insane. Not sure what they actually sell for.

Watch the rear crossmember, they like to rust. Looking at that pic of under the hood, I would look carefully at the radiator, those tanks are plastic and don’t last forever. Also the rust on the strut makes me think they are original and might be ready fir new ones.

 

[mosaud1998]

Subscribing as I see “deals” like this all the time. Insane. Not sure what they actually sell for.

Watch the rear crossmember, they like to rust. Looking at that pic of under the hood, I would look carefully at the radiator, those tanks are plastic and don’t last forever. Also the rust on the strut makes me think they are original and might be ready fir new ones.

I can use the strut thing as a negotiation tool. KBB is showing fair purchase price of $2,664+TTL.

 

[Leo99]

I've lost a few older vehicles due to dried out oil seals. The seals dry out and oil starts leaking. It can be very expensive and time consuming to change out a $10 seal.

 

[wag123]

My dad owned a 1998 Toyota Camry LE w/the 4 cylinders. It was pretty smooth and reliable. The only major thing that went out on it was the oil pump seal at around 160k miles. We sold the car back in 2019 with 190k~ miles due to rust.

I got a job offer that is a bit far from my house. So, I kind of what to keep the miles on the BMW low. Hence, I have my eyes on a 1999 Toyota Camry XLE V6 at a local mom-and-pop dealer. Car's got 123k miles on it. The dealer is asking $4,495. Looks super clean. Maybe too clean to use as a "beater"

What do you guys think I should offer?

The 1MZ-FE 3.0L V/6 was a sludge monster if synthetic oil wasn't used and the oil wasn't changed often enough. I had a 1998 Camry with this engine and never had a sludge problem, but I used M1 and changed it every 5000 miles or less. Where they run into a sludge problem is when cheap dino oil was used and changed at the 7500 mile intervals that Toyota recommended at the time. Also, keep in mind that this engine has a timing belt that needs to be changed every 90k miles. Check to see that this has been done. Other than that, the engines are very reliable and live a long life.

 

[JavierH19]

A bit steep but if the engine and trans is perfect i would say it's worth it given that it also looks mint inside and out. Though the 4 cyl is the better of the two, v6 isn't bad though. If it leaks no oil and looks to be at level and the inside of the tail pipe isn't oily it's good. If the trans works flawlessly when cold and being driven hard without it shifting either delayed lockup when suddenly accelerating hard from a slow acceleration or a stiff shift it's also good.

 

[WeyounDS9]

The 1MZ-FE 3.0L V/6 was a sludge monster if synthetic oil wasn't used and the oil wasn't changed often enough. I had a 1998 Camry with this engine and never had a sludge problem, but I used M1 and changed it every 5000 miles or less. Where they run into a sludge problem is when cheap dino oil was used and changed at the 7500 mile intervals that Toyota recommended at the time. Also, keep in mind that this engine has a timing belt that needs to be changed every 90k miles. Check to see that this has been done. Other than that, the engines are very reliable and live a long life.

Isn't there a sticker that is supposed to be put on the timing cover when its been done?
So if there is a sticker and the vehicle looks good for rust i'd buy it even at the price nearly double KBB.

But id def have it inspected for rust regardless and also look into the oil addtion hole to see how it looks inside.
I also heard about these engines they were hard on oil and had failures as a result when ppl did not account for that.

 

[michaelluscher]

The oil pump seal doing a John Denver and jettisoning all the engine oil is a problem on the 2.2 5S-FE engine

This is an earlier 1MZ-FE V6, with a standard timing belt and cam/crank seals
Can/crank seals weep, the rear one masquerades as a PS pump leak
Sludge was an issue, if the oil changed weren't kept up with
Valve cover gaskets can harden and crack with time, it's a bit of a chore

It's priced a little high for a beater, really trip them up and ask for a timing belt history
Leather and a Moonroof make the difference
This being an A541E AT, remember that the differential fluid and ATF proper are drained and filled separately
Many people neglect the diff, and it grenades

This looks like an XLE, but there's no remote key fob
It probably got lost, most XLE trims came with Toyota VIP security, $20 and a few minutes puts a remote to it

Take it for a drive, see how rusty it is

I put 200k on the generation after this XV20, with the later 3MZ engine and 5AT

They can last forever, if maintained

That battery is giving junkyard, and that radiator is on borrowed time
Negotiate accordingly

 

[SatinSilver]

Any exterior photos? I wonder how the oem alloy wheels have held up and the undercarriage. If the dealer offers Carfax reports then that would be interesting to see. I can't see locations right now but from memory if in Chicago you can take it to TCCN automotive which specializes in Toyotas.

 

[mosaud1998]

Any exterior photos? I wonder how the oem alloy wheels have held up and the undercarriage. If the dealer offers Carfax reports then that would be interesting to see. I can't see locations right now but from memory if in Chicago you can take it to TCCN automotive which specializes in Toyotas.

There's exterior photos. Cars located in Crystal lake.

 

[mosaud1998]

The 1MZ-FE 3.0L V/6 was a sludge monster if synthetic oil wasn't used and the oil wasn't changed often enough. I had a 1998 Camry with this engine and never had a sludge problem, but I used M1 and changed it every 5000 miles or less. Where they run into a sludge problem is when cheap dino oil was used and changed at the 7500 mile intervals that Toyota recommended at the time. Also, keep in mind that this engine has a timing belt that needs to be changed every 90k miles. Check to see that this has been done. Other than that, the engines are very reliable and live a long life.

I reached out to the dealership. I think they open at 11 am. It's got a clean carfax. I can use all those things as a negotiation tool. I don't see anything in regards to the timing belt etc being done on the carfax.

Link to carfax: https://connect.carfax.com/dir?key=...LsP60krg4_-cZT9PjcICfmqfMvJGdg3gvMcsTRKC-WAtg

 

[dishdude]

As long as it's not a rust bucket underneath, I'd say that's a $3,500 car.

 

[mosaud1998]

The oil pump seal doing a John Denver and jettisoning all the engine oil is a problem on the 2.2 5S-FE engine

This is an earlier 1MZ-FE V6, with a standard timing belt and cam/crank seals
Can/crank seals weep, the rear one masquerades as a PS pump leak
Sludge was an issue, if the oil changed weren't kept up with
Valve cover gaskets can harden and crack with time, it's a bit of a chore

It's priced a little high for a beater, really trip them up and ask for a timing belt history
Leather and a Moonroof make the difference
This being an A541E AT, remember that the differential fluid and ATF proper are drained and filled separately
Many people neglect the diff, and it grenades

This looks like an XLE, but there's no remote key fob
It probably got lost, most XLE trims came with Toyota VIP security, $20 and a few minutes puts a remote to it

Take it for a drive, see how rusty it is

I put 200k on the generation after this XV20, with the later 3MZ engine and 5AT

They can last forever, if maintained

That battery is giving junkyard, and that radiator is on borrowed time
Negotiate accordingly

The Camry as a Diff? I thought only AWD/RWD cars had Diffs? I was thinking of lowballing at $2,200+TTL. The highest I'll go is KBB $2700+TTL.

 

[dishdude]

The Camry as a Diff? I thought only AWD/RWD cars had Diffs? I was thinking of lowballing at $2,200+TTL. The highest I'll go is KBB $2700+TTL.

All cars have diffs, usually with FWD transmissions there is only one pan and drain but some have them separated out.

 

[mosaud1998]

All cars have diffs, usually with FWD transmissions there is only one pan and drain but some have them separated out.

Wow, I did not know that. Never changed the diff fluid on any FWD car we've had

 

[dishdude]

Wow, I did not know that. Never changed the diff fluid on any FWD car we've had

FWD transmissions have the differential built into it. On most when you take the pan off you're draining both, but some older transmissions have them separated out. It's not too common.

 

[mosaud1998]

As long as it's not a rust bucket underneath, I'd say that's a $3,500 car.

$3500 with taxes and stuff right?

 

[Marcozi]

Do you see the maintenance history of the car? Also, you need to have a shop that specializes in Toyotas perform a pre-purchase inspection. All u8sed cars have something wrong with them.

 

[mosaud1998]

Do you see the maintenance history of the car? Also, you need to have a shop that specializes in Toyotas perform a pre-purchase inspection. All u8sed cars have something wrong with them.

Not much on the carfax in terms of maintenance

 

[wag123]

I reached out to the dealership. I think they open at 11 am. It's got a clean carfax. I can use all those things as a negotiation tool. I don't see anything in regards to the timing belt etc being done on the carfax.

Link to carfax: https://connect.carfax.com/dir?key=...LsP60krg4_-cZT9PjcICfmqfMvJGdg3gvMcsTRKC-WAtg

It looks like most of this car's services were done by independent shops and quicky lubes (or by the owner). Look for a sticker on the timing belt cover indicating that it has been changed. If it doesn't have one, assume that it needs to be changed (along with the water pump, pulleys, tensioner, seals, etc). That will cost you between $800 and $1000. Get a pre-purchase inspection done.