Yeah the Mobil 1 high milage are not SM or GF-4 they are GF-3
HOW MANY OF YOU DRAIN SYNTHETIC ON SHORT OCI'S?
- Thread starter SFCP
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...it looks clean, but did you ever doa a UOA?
Either 3 months on synth in my Acura about 8000-9000 miles, or 4 months in the CRV at about 6000 on synth or blend.
5K due to warranty on a 2005 Ford. When I can get PP, QS, Valvoline GrpIII at $1-2/qt why use MC 5W20 blend at $2 ?
I'm confident it could go longer but an oil change at $10-16 with a MC filter why push it ?
I'm big on conservation/recycle but prefer not to "recycle" engines and keep them in best operating capacity during their life. I live where vehicles don't rust out so 200-300K life is not out of the question. One of mine is at 180K.
I'm confident it could go longer but an oil change at $10-16 with a MC filter why push it ?
I'm big on conservation/recycle but prefer not to "recycle" engines and keep them in best operating capacity during their life. I live where vehicles don't rust out so 200-300K life is not out of the question. One of mine is at 180K.
SFCP,
I do this as a regular maintenance. I always drain/oil change my oil every time the manual tells me so which is every 3K. My Toyota is a little different which is every 3K and 4.5K.
Durango
I do this as a regular maintenance. I always drain/oil change my oil every time the manual tells me so which is every 3K. My Toyota is a little different which is every 3K and 4.5K.
Durango
Change out the familymobile between 3K to 4K on PP 5W-20. My old beater truck is cranked about 5 times a year to do 25 mile round trips to the landfill or Home Depot, so the oil gets changed once a year or so (dino), depending on whether it's the birthday or the anniversary that I forgot. Gives me something to do while I'm in the dog house.
I only will put 8K or so this next OCI with the Volvo. I'm at 15 months this 10K OCI, so the oil is just getting broken in.
The Avalon maybe 4k. I should probably go over a year, but it's a known sludger.
The Ody will be upped from about 6K to 12K OCI's with ASM.....but not this change. I have XLM in stock to use up.
So yes I change the oil at short OCI's.
The Avalon maybe 4k. I should probably go over a year, but it's a known sludger.
The Ody will be upped from about 6K to 12K OCI's with ASM.....but not this change. I have XLM in stock to use up.
So yes I change the oil at short OCI's.
6.5k miles on PP for Mazda3.
Certainly not regular OCI here.
Certainly not regular OCI here.
Every 5K for the most part, six month intervals.
Toyota Highlander - Amsoil ASL 5w30, 10k miles
Acura TL - Amsoil XL 5w20, 7k miles (recently changed to Amsoil 0w-20 and if tests show good results, I'll extend past 7k miles)
Sample and test every other oil change with Terry Dyson.
Acura TL - Amsoil XL 5w20, 7k miles (recently changed to Amsoil 0w-20 and if tests show good results, I'll extend past 7k miles)
Sample and test every other oil change with Terry Dyson.
'97 subaru legacy: 10k mile OCI M1 10/30. At 90,000 miles all OHC valve clearances were within spec. Internals clean, shiny, zero buildup/discoloration. Consumption was varied at 106,000 miles when we sold it, DC commuting affected consumption. Went as far as 12,000 mile OCI, but I got scared. 25,000 miles/yr.
'97 pathfinder. 4.5 qt sump. 10,000 mile OCI. It'd "feel" funny if ya went beyond 12,000 miles. M1 10/30. Never a whisper out of the motor, no noticeable consumption. Occassional heavy towing. Did this a long time.
'02 Chrysler T&C 3.3. 10,000 mile OCI, M1 10/30. As long as the commute was long, this OCI was great. After moving to a short commute, The startup racket began at 5,500 miles on this oil and by 6,000 I was done with it. first 25,000 miles/yr, then 12,000 miles/yr
'02 accord 2.3L 7,500 OCI on variety of synthetics. M1 x/20 has been overall the quietest/least consumed. even syntec x/20 started allowing valve tap ~2500 miles into it. Valv-syn was NOISEY. I think M1 x/20 would easily go 10 in this motor, but worry 'bout insolubles. It can get dusty here. 15,000 miles/yr.
'99 crv. 7,500 oci on dino. zero problems, exh valve clearance bad at 65,000. caught it before damage. switched to synthetc, 8,000 oci. some varnish/chocolate staining inside the valve cover. It drives more smoothly on syn, and downshifts are more "connected" feeling as engine revs quicker (4spd AT). 15,000/yr
I find that number of cool-down cycles means more than mileage. Except in extremely short commute scenarios, I am a believer in extended OCIs with syn. Also, I find M1 x/20 to be much more consistent feeling over its life than the 5/30 10/30 flavors, and arguably more consistent that syntec 0/20. Might jive with the M1 japanese website quoted recently that listed 0/20 and 5/40 as Gp IV, 5/30 10/30 as G III.
Mike
'97 pathfinder. 4.5 qt sump. 10,000 mile OCI. It'd "feel" funny if ya went beyond 12,000 miles. M1 10/30. Never a whisper out of the motor, no noticeable consumption. Occassional heavy towing. Did this a long time.
'02 Chrysler T&C 3.3. 10,000 mile OCI, M1 10/30. As long as the commute was long, this OCI was great. After moving to a short commute, The startup racket began at 5,500 miles on this oil and by 6,000 I was done with it. first 25,000 miles/yr, then 12,000 miles/yr
'02 accord 2.3L 7,500 OCI on variety of synthetics. M1 x/20 has been overall the quietest/least consumed. even syntec x/20 started allowing valve tap ~2500 miles into it. Valv-syn was NOISEY. I think M1 x/20 would easily go 10 in this motor, but worry 'bout insolubles. It can get dusty here. 15,000 miles/yr.
'99 crv. 7,500 oci on dino. zero problems, exh valve clearance bad at 65,000. caught it before damage. switched to synthetc, 8,000 oci. some varnish/chocolate staining inside the valve cover. It drives more smoothly on syn, and downshifts are more "connected" feeling as engine revs quicker (4spd AT). 15,000/yr
I find that number of cool-down cycles means more than mileage. Except in extremely short commute scenarios, I am a believer in extended OCIs with syn. Also, I find M1 x/20 to be much more consistent feeling over its life than the 5/30 10/30 flavors, and arguably more consistent that syntec 0/20. Might jive with the M1 japanese website quoted recently that listed 0/20 and 5/40 as Gp IV, 5/30 10/30 as G III.
Mike
Isuzu Rodeo - This round of Rotella synthetic got 4,500 miles; this truck is at 175k and I want to keep it as clean as possible. Refilled with Maxlife synthetic 5w-30, had it sitting around, will probably go 4-5k as long as it doesn't shear too badly.
Tacoma - 5k with GTX 5w-30, truck appears to be real easy on oil.
Cummins diesel - 7-8k with Delo 400, roughly twice a year; 95% all highway driving.
BMW - Rotella synthetic did a short 3k mile run when we purchased it, now has barely 1k on 2nd round of Rotella. Last oil change we're doing, car's up for sale.
Tacoma - 5k with GTX 5w-30, truck appears to be real easy on oil.
Cummins diesel - 7-8k with Delo 400, roughly twice a year; 95% all highway driving.
BMW - Rotella synthetic did a short 3k mile run when we purchased it, now has barely 1k on 2nd round of Rotella. Last oil change we're doing, car's up for sale.
3000-4500 miles
5000 mi OCIs because it is easy to remember 5K intervals (5000, 10000, 15000, etc.) 10K mi OCIs may be pushing it a bit for me.
I plead guilty.
I'm guilty, I never go past 5k on Conventional or synthetic, but I run 4 to 5k every 6 to 10 months then it gets changed.
Dr Haas brings up a good point high humidity, gives me another excuse to change it, I'm in central Florida.
Dr Haas brings up a good point high humidity, gives me another excuse to change it, I'm in central Florida.
I change out the GC in my '03 Protege'5 at the mid 5000 mile mark 'cos the sump is only a lousy 3.75 quarts. It's also humid as heck here in NW Arkansas. Comes out to a change about every 5 months.
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