how harmful is it to tow a car

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Say your standard pass car, lets just say a camry towing a corolla. Or a corolla towing a corolla.

First to pull out the corolla from a ditch and then on flat road, using a tow strap. in Neutral.

Would that possibly tweak the frame or mainly extra wear and tear on the trans? This is assume the corolla had enough power/torque to pull out of the ditch.
 
The owners manual normally gives a tow capacity for a vehicle. Some say not to tow at all, others give a definite limit.

Most passenger cars are in the 1000-2000lb capacity, but this also takes into account for tongue weight and stopping. I could see pulling a car from a ditch putting a lot of strain on the drivetrain of the Camry.
 
The best way to tow out a stuck vehicle is to have said stuck vehicle in neutral and the driver steer with the other vehicle that's pulling them out.

The hardest part with modern cars is finding something solid to hook onto!
 
I don't see the drivetrain being an issue, as the Camry shares the same drivetrain as some of the CUV's Toyota/Lexus put out and they are allowed to tow a decent amount of weight.

The only issue I see might be mounting points, and maybe damaging the frame.But idk..
 
Originally Posted By: hattaresguy
The best way to tow out a stuck vehicle is to have said stuck vehicle in neutral and the driver steer with the other vehicle that's pulling them out.

The hardest part with modern cars is finding something solid to hook onto!


Yeah. I have seen people stuck in parking lots and ditches ... I couldn't do anything other than shovel because there was no where to hook a tow strap.
 
I've always wondered why so many cars have these little cutouts in their bumpers; they are pretty obvious, in the front. Wasn't until I needed to have my Jetta towed that I read the section in the manual about towing; turns out I had this hook that I could screw into the front bumper. Well, after I pulled out a panel that is; on the side opposite the intercooler there is a blockoff which looked kinda like a grill insert, and behind that was screw hole for the tow hook.

I have to wonder if cars with "obvious" knockout plates in the fascias are likewise.
 
Originally Posted By: supton
I've always wondered why so many cars have these little cutouts in their bumpers; they are pretty obvious, in the front. Wasn't until I needed to have my Jetta towed that I read the section in the manual about towing; turns out I had this hook that I could screw into the front bumper. Well, after I pulled out a panel that is; on the side opposite the intercooler there is a blockoff which looked kinda like a grill insert, and behind that was screw hole for the tow hook.

I have to wonder if cars with "obvious" knockout plates in the fascias are likewise.


My 4th generation ES300 has a obvious knockout plate that you describe, and it is for a tow hook as well.
 
Originally Posted By: hypervish
Originally Posted By: supton
I've always wondered why so many cars have these little cutouts in their bumpers; they are pretty obvious, in the front. Wasn't until I needed to have my Jetta towed that I read the section in the manual about towing; turns out I had this hook that I could screw into the front bumper. Well, after I pulled out a panel that is; on the side opposite the intercooler there is a blockoff which looked kinda like a grill insert, and behind that was screw hole for the tow hook.

I have to wonder if cars with "obvious" knockout plates in the fascias are likewise.


My 4th generation ES300 has a obvious knockout plate that you describe, and it is for a tow hook as well.

A salesman told me one time that these knock-out attachments were used to anchor the vehicle to the freighter bringing it across the big blue sea.
 
the force from a pull is magnitudes smaller than the force from an impact. I've pulled many vehicles -- just have to tie to something solid. issues--- if the cable wraps by, goes under, or next to, something soft, like plastic bumper cover, there will be scratches or torn plastic. If the cable/chain/strap gets slack in it, it can be pretty rough when it snaps taught. straps are much more forgiving than cables and chains. I won't pull folks with cables or chains unless they are experienced, or it's just a 6' yank. straps have some elasticity, or will tear, before anything major happens. cables and chains can rip something off....

you can use a small car to pull something out of a ditch, if you have enough traction. most of the time the traction is less than what the vehicle is capable of.

pulling stuck motorists with small cars with a manual trans can be pretty rough on the clutch. engine may have to rev up and slip the clutch to get the torque needed. ATs can be an advantage, until they don't get revved up enough to achieve decent torque from the engine.

of course, pulling for a few miles adds other concerns--- AT lubrication. that's another topic.

Be safe!!!! traffic is not always aware of your vehicles, ropes, and working area ahead. buy good lights and flares, and always use several---- starting a good number of yards out. remember, if they are moving 35 mph, a 50' "warning" space is not enough for them to react. also realize that straps break, and then cars slide some more. It can get messy. I have sometimes decided it best NOT to pull someone, if I felt that the other driver was too upset, headstrong, or rattled to be a safe partner for the job at hand. know your limits!
 
Originally Posted By: supton
I've always wondered why so many cars have these little cutouts in their bumpers; they are pretty obvious, in the front. Wasn't until I needed to have my Jetta towed that I read the section in the manual about towing; turns out I had this hook that I could screw into the front bumper. Well, after I pulled out a panel that is; on the side opposite the intercooler there is a blockoff which looked kinda like a grill insert, and behind that was screw hole for the tow hook.

I have to wonder if cars with "obvious" knockout plates in the fascias are likewise.


It seems to be some sort of European requirement. The manufacturers are just adding them to all models that would be sold in Europe too.

Most newer Ford "world" cars have the knockout for the hook, but no actual hook.
 
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Let me clarify - if you remove the knockout there is a place to insert the hook, but you have to buy it separate.

And it has a crazy name. Can't remember what it is but it's an odd one
 
Maybe the detatchable hook thing is a pedestrian safety thing. My car's tow/transport loops are well under the bumper.

I've considered hauling hapless passers-by out of ditches but each time, they've gone in at a funny angle that would have me taking up all lanes of the road to get them out, putting my safety at risk.

Better to let them wait for a tow, and have time to think about getting better tires and driving skills.

The car can take it for short periods of time; you don't want to overheat your ATF by being at stall (floored/not moving) for too long. My biggest worry would actually be transaxle differential pins, they tend to break when there's one wheel spinning as could happen on a wet road towing someone from a snowbank.

I've seen automatics rated for 25 miles at 25 MPH towing in neutral. Plenty to get out of a ditch, and besides, the car in the ditch should be helping.
 
For the short distance you would need to get the other vehicle out of a ditch, all while in 1st gear, it won't hurt a thing. But long distance towing afterward could be different.

It is amazing sometimes just how little force is required to pull someone out of trouble. Unless they did a bang-up job getting there.
 
Originally Posted By: Kuato


It is amazing sometimes just how little force is required to pull someone out of trouble. Unless they did a bang-up job getting there.


this is true^^^ I stopped a couple of years ago to pull an explorer out of a black-bean-chili mess in the median of a 4 lane hwy. He wanted to go east, but eastbound was very busy, so I opted to pull him out westbound where he could at least keep going and turn later. Problem was I was 2WD, so joining in the soup was no good. The road was already wet and a bit muddy too. I keep my rope bag in the car, which is mostly 1" climbing webbing (not used for climbing any more) and had enough to reach. Because of the angles, and my need to stay on pavement, the only option was to pull him out basically sideways (had to drag the front end around), and up the mild embankment. It took some throttle (V6 jeep at the time) to get started but once we were moving it happily slipped right through the mud. It was so messy that gravity kept the ford sliding sideways until we hit pavement. Glorious mud-mess. I asked the owner, who was spotting, to please not run to the truck until it was stopped. Nope.... he ran along side it trying to jump in. Made mental note about not trusting others regarding safety.

On another jaunt I pulled a fellow out of a snow bank and up an icy hill so he could keep going. told him to idle it in D but not apply gas going up the hill, as I was afraid he'd come up over the cable (was using a steel cable that time). Did he understand? I guess not. As soon as we were moving he got on the gas and eventually shot forward on a clean patch and ran over the cable, which could have made things more interesting than I really wanted. Fortunately, the ice saved that from being too bad and I just drug the mess up to the top. Went well but I made a mental note that perhaps just getting folks out of the snowbank was really all I should have done. But yea, again, once we were moving it was just a manner of keeping it going.

Static friction trumps dynamic friction.
 
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When possible, I prefer pushing rather than pulling. Well, a tow dolly is ideal but I mean in an emergency, just to get a disabled car to a better location. There is some risk of bumper blemishes from doing this, but padding helps some.

Whenever it has been necessary to pull something a short distance, I've never had trouble finding a frame crossmember to attach to.
Pulling out of a ditch certainly puts more strain on the tow vehicle than on a level road. Whether it could harm the transmission in that short of a run, I have no idea.


After having seen many videos of mishaps when people try to "help" somebody pull a car, I think if I was in that situation I'd try to avoid taking help from strangers, unless I had no choice. There's too many idiots out there. Apparently, some people don't know how to use their truck intelligently, but they perceive these situations as a chance to show it off. They get excited, floor it, snap the car suddenly and potentially bend the frame. That's assuming they even find the frame to begin with, but I can take control of that much.

They need to slowly pull the line tight, check everything, then slowly increase the throttle until it starts moving. People I've seen in some videos act like they think they're in the tractor competition at the county fairgrounds. I don't want my car on the receiving end of that. Not everybody is like that but you never know who you're gonna get.

Meep mentioned the flip side as well. Towing strangers out may be just as risky as letting them tow you. Towing situations can be awkward enough that I'd rather deal with people I have a good relationship and common understanding with.
 
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Originally Posted By: hattaresguy
The best way to tow out a stuck vehicle is to have said stuck vehicle in neutral and the driver steer with the other vehicle that's pulling them out.

The hardest part with modern cars is finding something solid to hook onto!


I disagree with this statement. The best way is to have the stuck vehicle spin its tires a bit and straight as possible also once it gets the tug to get out also. This eliminates the stress on both vehicles and a slight tug seems all a stuck vehicle mostly needs. I pulled a F350 2wd dually off the road out with a WRX with Nokian tires this way.

The key is tugging very gently.
 
Originally Posted By: rjundi


I disagree with this statement. The best way is to have the stuck vehicle spin its tires a bit and straight as possible also once it gets the tug to get out also. This eliminates the stress on both vehicles and a slight tug seems all a stuck vehicle mostly needs. I pulled a F350 2wd dually off the road out with a WRX with Nokian tires this way.

The key is tugging very gently.



You put a lot more faith in the driver of the "stuck" car than I would. Assuming it's the same person who couldn't figure out they might lose traction in the first place... now how do they figure out the opposite might happen... here comes some traction and they ram into you from the rear?

I'm not risking 600 bucks in damage to my rear bumper to save someone 80 bucks on a tow.

On my Honda's they've always had a good hook in the rear center. My Highlander has the two small panels in the front bumper. Recovery hooks screw in and can be used for pulling. Car came with one, I have two (for tying a canoe to the roof), they were pretty cheap from the dealer and I'd recommend having one.
 
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Automatic transmissions are nice. Whenever I have to recover someone in the Jeep, I just put it in 4lo and let it creep to tighten the recovery strap, then give it a bit of gas.

If that doesn't work, then it's time to start "bumping". That is when you start bending / breaking things.
 
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