How do you go about choosing brake pads?

I believe this video was mentioned earlier, albeit not directly with a link.
 
Newish I tend to go OEM. Oldish I will try stuff if reviews are good, like Raybestos. Usually I get over 100k on pads though, so my opinion really doesn’t apply here, i’m outside the norm.
 
Newish I tend to go OEM. Oldish I will try stuff if reviews are good, like Raybestos. Usually I get over 100k on pads though, so my opinion really doesn’t apply here, i’m outside the norm.
I am with you. On my 07 Accord that I had I would get around 80 to 90000 on the front pads and about the same for the rear....and that is with Honda OEM pads.....They are quiet and brake feel is good...No need to change to another pad for me...
 
Even though my brake pad of choice produces very little dust, that feature doesn’t even make my radar. What matters to me in order of importance is stopping performance, and then, rotor life. Obviously one of those criteria compromises the other.

Some years ago when choosing pads for my vintage cars I did an on car comparison with the two contenders; Porterfield R4-s vs. ebc redstuff pads. Just to have a baseline I also tried Hawk & Raybestos pads. Multiple runs were made at 60 mph and 100 mph. DOT 4 fluid was used.

Both the Porterfield and ebc pads stopped the car 3+ car lengths better than the Hawk or Raybestos pads. The ebc’s were consistently 1/2 car length better than the Porterfield’s. Not an exact scientific comparison. But revealing enough for my needs.

Since then I’ve used the ebc red stuff pads on many different vehicles, classic and modern. They’ve always demonstrated a significant improvement in stopping performance vs. OEM pads.

In today’s driving environment having brake pads that work better is a lifesaver. But when a driver has superior brakes, the first thing to do is let a tailgater pass you. Otherwise you’re bound to meet one of them up close and personal. ;)

Z
 
What is the actual criteria you use for choosing brake pads for a daily driver minivan?


The pads on the car have lasted super long so I don't see any need for anything different. Should I just buy OEM at whatever they are charging?

OEM pads are $103 for the front.

O'reilley has options at $40, $60, $75, and $90. How do you go about comparing the $40 or $75 oreilly pads to the $103 OEM pads?
I just buy the cheapest pads that Auto Zone has. $25 and lifetime warranty? Sold. IMO, for just a regular daily driver family car, its all you need anyways.
OEM pads are fine if thats what you want to do but I would not pay a premium for them because all pads are kind of the same thing, just in a different box or with a different brand name stamped on them.
 
I just buy the cheapest pads that Auto Zone has. $25 and lifetime warranty? Sold. IMO, for just a regular daily driver family car, its all you need anyways.
OEM pads are fine if thats what you want to do but I would not pay a premium for them because all pads are kind of the same thing, just in a different box or with a different brand name stamped on them.
They are FAR from same thing.
 
When I need brakes (I'm down to about 3mm thickness) I'll go to my brake guy with whom I've had a relationship since 1986 and say, "Lyle, gimme a set of OEM pads, and if the Camry needs rotors, I'd like a set of OEM rotors. Call me when you're done."
 
I check here on BITOG to see what other people like. If Rock Auto has 'em, I get them. Guess what's on the car now? Element 3's of course! No complaints.
 
I have to respectfully disagree with you on that one. I work in the automotive industry and youd be surprised just how many auto parts are made in the same factories and just get put in a different box or with a different brand stamped on them.
I worked too. That is different from what you argued and this argument is gross generalization.
Yes, SOME parts are same. Ihave on my E90 M3 wishbones from TRW that have scratched M logo (indicates OE part). But at the same time for DD I have Jurid front pads, semi metallic that have very little dust. OE BMW pads, made by Jurid, dust a lot. So Jurid aftermarket is different than Jurid OE. Not to mention that for example BMW F30 has 3 different pad models depending on package but same size of pads.
Now, I have no doubt or reason to doubt that Akebono OE for Toyota is same as Akebono aftermarket. But than, performance of brakes indicate that and that is why I don’t have either on my Toyota.
Also, Akebono for Toyota is different than Duralast or Wagner for Toyota. And ATE, Pagid, Textar or Jurid for BMW is DEFINITELY different than Duralast for BMW.
That is what I am talking. There are huge differences between pads. And I am not gonna go into track pads or racing.
 
I'm about to replace the front brakes on my wife's 2004 Accord. I ordered factory pads and Brembo rotors.

For my car, I installed Performance Frictiom -08 pads as I track him, and factory pads overheat after 3 or 4 laps.
 
Back
Top