Honda Snowblower Oil Questions

[Clevy]

OP
I have 12 GX 160 5.5hp Honda engines running aid compressors. Don't even think of using a 20 grade as some have suggested. These engines suffer from serious fuel dilution so using a synthetic is a total waste of money because of the short change intervals.
In the summer I use an hdeo I find cheap and change at 100 hours. Winter I use a 5w-30 and monitor oil levels closely. The fuel dilution will increase the oil level to the point of being way overfilled if you are only running it for 20 minutes or less at a time.
Do not use a 20 grade.

 

[Woody71]

My Cub Cadet thrower can use 5W-30 or 0W-30, I went with 0W-30.

 

[JTK]

Congrats on the sweet gift and awesome snowblower!

I've mentioned it before, but we've got 2 Honda snowblowers at work. One with tires, one with tracks. I think they're 8 and 9hp. They are absolute BEASTS when it comes to throwing snow. They'll send anything that gets into the chute FLYING. The power they have is unreal.

I find them very awkward to operate given the hydrostatic drive, but you sure can't take their snow removal ability away from them.

As far as what engine oil? I normally like any diesel/fleet 15w40 in all my OPE, but I'd probably go with a OPE specific/ Honda 5w30 in this case.

 

[kaseri]

I'm getting used to the Hydrostatic drive. Feels slightly awkward after using an Ariens for so many years. As you mention, the snow throwing ability of the machine is amazing. No more worrying about the concrete like snow at the end of my drive.

As for oil I'm likely going to use a synthetic that is readily available locally. Most likely Amsoil or maybe Mobil 1 in the Honda spec of 5w30. Although I am interested in the GC 0w30 as well. Seems like everyone loves that oil in snow blowers.

 

[lars11]

to conclude: Stay with a xW-30, Address the winter startup issue with a 0w-30 or 5w-30. Try and find a stout oil, ACEA A3/B3,B4 maybe a HDEO.
I run 0w-30 Total Quartz in my old tecumseh 5hp flathead blower, no HDEO but I change at max 10 hrs.

I don't think there's good reason to use 20 grades, cold or not, since the engine is kind of designed for 30 and will run hot enough.
I'm sure you *could* run 20 wihtout issues, but I do think it is more of a bet and more sensitive than a 30, requiring shorter oci's.