Here comes the MC FL-820S test...

Guys-keep it civil on this one, I need to get to the bottom of my timing chain issues, and I'm hoping that maybe the FL820-S CAN help solve them. Otherwise I'm going to have to (probably pay) to have the timing cover, valve covers, and chain tensioners (OR MORE) replaced. Approaching the car's value in cost! I will post updates on the process.
So it's fair to say for now the problem is solved by the new filter, and you are going to keep it at that unless the noise returns?
I had good vibes from PP lately on two cars and my lawn mower, 5w 30.
 
Chain tenioners can also bleed down on their own due to their seal leaking. Lots of videos on YouTube covering that issue.
I know, I have most of the parts together (incl. old school ratcheting tensioners), but work has been insane, we can't hire anybody (worth hiring), so there's no time to tear it apart & put it back together. The randomness with which it has been acting up is weird too-it used to be able to handle 3 days of sitting & be fine, but the XG2 I had on eventually couldn't go a day. I've had great luck with Ultras on everything else.
 
So it's fair to say for now the problem is solved by the new filter, and you are going to keep it at that unless the noise returns?
I had good vibes from PP lately on two cars and my lawn mower, 5w 30.
It's lasted a day so far, I'll probably fire it up Sunday (5 days) & see what it does. The MCs are dirt cheap, $3.79 at WM, if it can go even 3K I'll do a "reverse Ultra" OCI, 2 filters per 6K!
 
Chain tenioners can also bleed down on their own due to their seal leaking. Lots of videos on YouTube covering that issue.
BW, I bet this is your problem. My son says the Ford techs at his dealership are replacing them left and right.
But, most get the whole 9 yards done when in there.
If Ford knew their FL-820S were a problem, don't you think they would have pulled it by now?
 
I did run it today (sat 4 days), and there was a little noise, but no hitting the inside of the cover this time. If I can squeeze another year to 10K out of the tensioners, then I’ll tear into it.
 
BW, I bet this is your problem. My son says the Ford techs at his dealership are replacing them left and right.
But, most get the whole 9 yards done when in there.
If Ford knew their FL-820S were a problem, don't you think they would have pulled it by now?

We just retired a 1996 Crown Victoria ex-cop car with 366,000 miles using the Fl-820s oil filter because of the severe rust issues underneath the vehicle. All this paranoia is rediculous on this forum with this oil filter.
 
Apparently, my Fram Ultra luck must be running out-I have been having worsening ADBV action with an XG2 on the MGM in my sig, a 4.6 2V. It got bad enough that just a couple hours of sitting was enough to get the dreaded timing chain slap. The Magnatec 5W20 only has about 3000 miles on it, so on went the DREADED MC FL-820S! I'm going to grit my teeth, run it 3000 miles (or until the ADBV starts acting up). Go ahead & laugh-I'll cut it open when OCI time comes along, and I am careful to baby it cold (got a little piston slap, goes away inside of 1 mile).
idk why you are running 5w20. my f150 just turned 240k miles. the last 125k have been with 40 and 30 grades 2ith fram ultra and mc filters. its not rattled in years. ive never changed anything. never had a tensioner or cam phaser issue.

switch to m1 0w40 and watch the noise become a distant memory
 
I found my tin snips. I have a used 820S waiting to be cut open. Records show it was installed at 95827 miles, assuming it was in fact installed then. It's possible they only did a drain and fill. I don't know. I bought the car at 97k miles. I changed the filter and oil at 98425. So it has at least 2500 miles on it. When I get time I'm going to cut it open and document...
 
If it's not torn and looks good, then I guess every 820 in the world is proven to be perfect. 😄
Just curious, do you apply a 0.000000000001% of products "looks bad" so they're all garbage standard to all products or just a personal vendetta against this filter?

Every product, including the best ever made and very very high dollar items do have failures. It's the bain of mass production to deliver low cost high quality items. A bad batch of materials, an employee having a bad day, a robotic arm not operating correctly...
 
Just curious, do you apply a 0.000000000001% of products "looks bad" so they're all garbage standard to all products or just a personal vendetta against this filter?

Every product, including the best ever made and very very high dollar items do have failures. It's the bain of mass production to deliver low cost high quality items. A bad batch of materials, an employee having a bad day, a robotic arm not operating correctly...
Like I said before, there have been plenty of torn FL820 posted here to know that of all the Motorcraft filters it tears and looks the worse of the Motorcrafts. It's been going on for years, so whatever materials, manufacturing processes, QA, etc involved with them don't seem to be up to the standards of the others like the FL500/FL400/FL910 etc. Just the way it is, so it's silly to keep saying the FL820 is a darling filter. Most look OK, some (more than what should) don't look OK, and some tear ... just the way it is. No matter what you say won't change that, so enjoy 'em.

Edit:
BTW ... go do some searches. In only 5 minutes I found these threads in this forum showing torn or ugly FL820S filters. It's all out there, go find out for yourself.

Torn FL820S Threads:







Ugly (but not torn) FL820S Threads (and there are more):


 
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Like I said before, there have been plenty of torn FL820 posted here to know that of all the Motorcraft filters it tears and looks the worse of the Motorcrafts. It's been going on for years, so whatever materials, manufacturing processes, QA, etc involved with them don't seem to be up to the standards of the others like the FL500/FL400/FL910 etc. Just the way it is, so it's silly to keep saying the FL820 is a darling filter. Most look OK, some (more than what should) don't look OK, and some tear ... just the way it is. No matter what you say won't change that, so enjoy 'em.
i will for another 100k miles and then ill get a new truck. 240k and counting.......
 
If I was going to use an FL820S, I'd be using the Ford Performance full synthetic FL820S. I'm using an FL500S on the Coyote, but they always look good and don't tear.
 
That’s why I call it a “test”-I’m fully aware of the media issues with these, and I want to prove that they can stand up to an average OCI, using the recommended grade/weight of oil, without media tearing. AFAIK, only THREE modular Ford filters have the base end bypass-the standard MC FL820-S (cheap), the Baldwin (twice as much), and the Racing filter (4X OR MORE than the regular one). I know Purolator standard media filters use weak, brittle media, I’ve cut enough open to know they’re not indestructible.
 
See added links in post #32 above ... lots of "flukes" I guess.
idk. i stopped cutting filters up around 2015 and decided i like the 820s for the price or if i wanted to splurge id use fram ultra. maybe the issue was after that?

what i can tell you is i have one on my truck and 3 more waiting to go on and ill use them all.
 
See added links in post #32 above ... lots of "flukes" I guess.
I reckon im like my old dad was. when i told him aboit fram orange can being a bad filter and showed him the filter cut up he replied with "ive run ALOT of em" and kept on trucking. lol its hard to argue that aint it?
 
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