good 5-20 oil?
- Thread starter Bulli
- Start date
- Status
Go with Mobil 1 at Wal-Mart in the gallon jug for around $20.
Amsoil or Pennzoil Platinum.
All 5W20 oils both dino&synthetics have delivered great results. If you're trying to push intervals 10K or higher I would look at Amsoil's 0W20 or Schaeffer's 5W20. Intervals of 7K or less can be handled easily by PP,Havoline,Castrol GTX, ect... They ALL are working well in applications that call for them.
You can also examine the redline 5w20
Originally Posted By: Bulli
my car calls for 5-20. I just want to know what the best Synthetic is for this weight of oil.
Opinions vary!
Mine is:
There is no best oil otherwise that is what everyone would buy and there would be only that oil on the shelves!
my car calls for 5-20. I just want to know what the best Synthetic is for this weight of oil.
Opinions vary!
Mine is:
There is no best oil otherwise that is what everyone would buy and there would be only that oil on the shelves!
i do 95 percent of driving in the city. Big traffic always to get home. i don't even have to press the gas because i know i have to stop within 3 seconds. thats about 1.5 hours of crazy traffic like this daily 6 days a week. but when i am not in traffic i love to step on it. Driving fast... i need a dose everyday.
so idk how many miles i sould be looking to get from the oil.
in my previous car i ran Castrol gxe dino and i think it starting to develop worn bearing at only 70 k miles.
my other car i dunno wat the previous owners used but i used pennzoil dino and i also developed a big loud rod knock. but the car is driving. Actually my winter beater this winter.
speaking of rod knock will heavier oil quiet down the knock?
5-30 is what is recommended. will 10-40 be ok?
so idk how many miles i sould be looking to get from the oil.
in my previous car i ran Castrol gxe dino and i think it starting to develop worn bearing at only 70 k miles.
my other car i dunno wat the previous owners used but i used pennzoil dino and i also developed a big loud rod knock. but the car is driving. Actually my winter beater this winter.
speaking of rod knock will heavier oil quiet down the knock?
5-30 is what is recommended. will 10-40 be ok?
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2002
- Messages
- 39,799
Effectively you've got something like taxi service ..but just for the commute instead of all day. Plenty of warm engine state. Idling in traffic will alter your miles on the oil. Here's where an OLM would really be useful. Otherwise, I'd track fuel consumption. Compare peak fuel economy vs. actual fuel economy. That combined with UOA should dial in a change interval.
If you can control fuel dilution, you should be able to handle decent length intervals without issues.
If you can control fuel dilution, you should be able to handle decent length intervals without issues.
I never though to reference fuel economy figures with the OEM and compare that ratio with their OCI recommendations, assuming like you said that fuel dilution is in check. Something to think about amongst the variables, even though API recommended spec. is some 3 versions old with my vehicle - assuming greater protection/capacity over OCI, beyond an eye on the flat tappets.
Take care.
Take care.
Originally Posted By: Bulli
speaking of rod knock will heavier oil quiet down the knock?
5-30 is what is recommended. will 10-40 be ok?
10W-40 may work, but 20W-50 will probably work better.
Back when I used to keep vehicles long enough for the engine to start wearing out I would use a heavier oil to quiet rod knock. 20W-50 worked well & would usually add quite a few years & miles to the engine's life before overhaul was required. Adding a bottle or two of STP oil treatment to the 20W-50 would extend the life even further. I had a '79 Lincoln Mark V with a 400 that developed rod knock at 125,000 miles. Switched to 20W-50 with STP oil treatment in it and the engine was still running smooth, strong, and knock-free when I sold it in '89 with 165,000 miles on it.
This approach has been repeated numerous times over the years in my own vehicles, as well as those of friends and family members and has always worked great.
Give it a shot; if it already has a rod knocking you don't have much to lose, and plenty to gain...
speaking of rod knock will heavier oil quiet down the knock?
5-30 is what is recommended. will 10-40 be ok?
10W-40 may work, but 20W-50 will probably work better.
Back when I used to keep vehicles long enough for the engine to start wearing out I would use a heavier oil to quiet rod knock. 20W-50 worked well & would usually add quite a few years & miles to the engine's life before overhaul was required. Adding a bottle or two of STP oil treatment to the 20W-50 would extend the life even further. I had a '79 Lincoln Mark V with a 400 that developed rod knock at 125,000 miles. Switched to 20W-50 with STP oil treatment in it and the engine was still running smooth, strong, and knock-free when I sold it in '89 with 165,000 miles on it.
This approach has been repeated numerous times over the years in my own vehicles, as well as those of friends and family members and has always worked great.
Give it a shot; if it already has a rod knocking you don't have much to lose, and plenty to gain...
Originally Posted By: Lost1
Originally Posted By: Bulli
speaking of rod knock will heavier oil quiet down the knock?
5-30 is what is recommended. will 10-40 be ok?
10W-40 may work, but 20W-50 will probably work better.
Back when I used to keep vehicles long enough for the engine to start wearing out I would use a heavier oil to quiet rod knock. 20W-50 worked well & would usually add quite a few years & miles to the engine's life before overhaul was required. Adding a bottle or two of STP oil treatment to the 20W-50 would extend the life even further. I had a '79 Lincoln Mark V with a 400 that developed rod knock at 125,000 miles. Switched to 20W-50 with STP oil treatment in it and the engine was still running smooth, strong, and knock-free when I sold it in '89 with 165,000 miles on it.
This approach has been repeated numerous times over the years in my own vehicles, as well as those of friends and family members and has always worked great.
Give it a shot; if it already has a rod knocking you don't have much to lose, and plenty to gain...
You were not quieting a rod knock but rather a main bearing rattle. A rod bearing will go bad in no time.
Originally Posted By: Bulli
speaking of rod knock will heavier oil quiet down the knock?
5-30 is what is recommended. will 10-40 be ok?
10W-40 may work, but 20W-50 will probably work better.
Back when I used to keep vehicles long enough for the engine to start wearing out I would use a heavier oil to quiet rod knock. 20W-50 worked well & would usually add quite a few years & miles to the engine's life before overhaul was required. Adding a bottle or two of STP oil treatment to the 20W-50 would extend the life even further. I had a '79 Lincoln Mark V with a 400 that developed rod knock at 125,000 miles. Switched to 20W-50 with STP oil treatment in it and the engine was still running smooth, strong, and knock-free when I sold it in '89 with 165,000 miles on it.
This approach has been repeated numerous times over the years in my own vehicles, as well as those of friends and family members and has always worked great.
Give it a shot; if it already has a rod knocking you don't have much to lose, and plenty to gain...
You were not quieting a rod knock but rather a main bearing rattle. A rod bearing will go bad in no time.
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2002
- Messages
- 39,799
Quote:
I never though to reference fuel economy figures with the OEM and compare that ratio with their OCI recommendations, assuming like you said that fuel dilution is in check. Something to think about amongst the variables
TooSlick suggested it. He had a power density formula indexed for sump size and what oil you were using. Essentially it came down to fuel usage. He pointed out that it accounted for idling ..short trip ..high speed hammering ..whatever. Surely there would be some minor fudge factor involved, but with a UOA to index oil degradation at a given level of fuel consumption, you should be able to establish a sensible gallon figure to your oil change.
I don't need this for my wife's jeep (as an example) since its worst fuel economy is very close to its best typical fuel economy. When you're dealing with 17.5-19.x ..it's a bit different than my son's automatic Neon 2.0 where it can vary from 25-37 depending on trip length.
If you think about it, mileage is pretty numb. It has no time component to it. An hour meter is numb. It has no load component to it. Fuel, pretty much, covers most of the elements with leaving just a few variables to worry about.
You also have to figure that the max OEM recommendation isn't under ideal conditions. It's has a fudge factor involved to ..as does the severe duty. A 7500 mile OCI would probably be out there around 12k or more if conditions were right.
If I were to start out figuring this, I'd assign 10k for max fuel economy (400 gal of fuel @ 25 mpg) and go down from there based on my actual fuel economy. That should allow enough of a buffer until a UOA confirmed it one way or the other.
I never though to reference fuel economy figures with the OEM and compare that ratio with their OCI recommendations, assuming like you said that fuel dilution is in check. Something to think about amongst the variables
TooSlick suggested it. He had a power density formula indexed for sump size and what oil you were using. Essentially it came down to fuel usage. He pointed out that it accounted for idling ..short trip ..high speed hammering ..whatever. Surely there would be some minor fudge factor involved, but with a UOA to index oil degradation at a given level of fuel consumption, you should be able to establish a sensible gallon figure to your oil change.
I don't need this for my wife's jeep (as an example) since its worst fuel economy is very close to its best typical fuel economy. When you're dealing with 17.5-19.x ..it's a bit different than my son's automatic Neon 2.0 where it can vary from 25-37 depending on trip length.
If you think about it, mileage is pretty numb. It has no time component to it. An hour meter is numb. It has no load component to it. Fuel, pretty much, covers most of the elements with leaving just a few variables to worry about.
You also have to figure that the max OEM recommendation isn't under ideal conditions. It's has a fudge factor involved to ..as does the severe duty. A 7500 mile OCI would probably be out there around 12k or more if conditions were right.
If I were to start out figuring this, I'd assign 10k for max fuel economy (400 gal of fuel @ 25 mpg) and go down from there based on my actual fuel economy. That should allow enough of a buffer until a UOA confirmed it one way or the other.
Originally Posted By: mesastoura
You can also examine the redline 5w20
HTHS on Redline 5w20 is as high as HTHS on most other 10w30s. Very good.
You can also examine the redline 5w20
HTHS on Redline 5w20 is as high as HTHS on most other 10w30s. Very good.
Originally Posted By: Bulli
my car calls for 5-20. I just want to know what the best Synthetic is for this weight of oil.
What car do you have?
Ensure the oil you decide to use meet or exceed OEM specifications.
As example, I have a Ford; oil I use meet relevant spec for Ford.
my car calls for 5-20. I just want to know what the best Synthetic is for this weight of oil.
What car do you have?
Ensure the oil you decide to use meet or exceed OEM specifications.
As example, I have a Ford; oil I use meet relevant spec for Ford.
- Status
Similar threads
- Locked