Getting the Tucson to 150k my plan.

J

JustinH

Joined
Apr 17, 2004
Messages
6,904
Location
Texas Hill Country
I purchased a low mileage (Sub 10k miles) base model 17 Tuscon SE for my wife a few years back before the used market went crazy.

Because I completed all the recalls, I received the letter that the 2.0L NU non turbo GDI motor has been granted a warranty extended to 150k miles.

This car is paid off, my wife and I agreed that she would drive it to 150k miles.

My services so far.

Once a year air filters and cabin filters regardless of mileage of condition.

Techron every 3k.

30k miles- walmart battery replaced OEM.

30k miles- NGK Plugs (DIY).

40k miles replaced OEM tires with Goodyear.

45k miles, brake pads all the way around and had rotors turned. Fluid completely flushed with new.

At 50k miles, I had a BG/NAPA shop do some service. Changed coolant with a vaccum machine, and changed automatic transmission fluid with a machine. Mobil products used.

They also changed the oil with mobil syn blend 5w30 and a napa oil filter.

For a $14,000 used car this thing drives like a top, and I'm making sure that every single oil change is reported to carfax to keep up with the hyundai engine extended warranty.

The car uses about half a quart of oil between 3750 oil changes, the shop recommends BG Induction service for $199.

I think i am doing far more service than the average hyun/kia owner, but I think with this schedule I can get the car to 150k miles so long as I keep the oil level up.

Does the group here recommend the BG Induction services for this engine? I know I can buy GDI cleaner and spray it into the running engine, but the BG service uses specialized equipment.
 
Good plan. The induction service won't help oil burning really, but it is a very good product to clean valves. I would do the induction service as a start, and continue with Techron/Gumout Regane, or Redline cleaners from then on as maintenance. For the oil burning I would get some BG EPR and use as directed to free up any junk in the rings to minimize consumption, but it is inevitable on most Hyundai/Kia engines.
 
I've heard of the 2.0 using oil. Yes, you are doing a lot more than most. If you're doing it, you may as well document it too. Honestly, if this thing is going to be taken care of that well, 200k should be your goal. If the engine fails somewhere between 150k and 200k, that's the way it goes.
 
Induction service won't help anything. What will is exclusively using the oils that now pass the more rigorous standards needed for GDI engines. You should use Hyundai filters as well which can easily be bought in bulk online.

Your battery should have lasted a lot longer than 30k miles. Once you start hearing it sound a bit tired on start-up, that is when you should have it tested or replaced. I would recommend a quality set of jumper cables in the hatch.

Regular exterior upkeep and keeping junk out of the car is also a solid decision for long-term ownership. Avoid the car washes unless you can live with swirlies on the paint.

Finally, once every few fill-ups open the hood and check your fluid levels. You won't smell the early leaks. But you can catch them pretty quick by checking the levels on top and taking a few glances underneath when you change your oil.
 
Looks good.
I would make sure to utilize a "Severe service" regimen on the oil changes, and make sure that they are documented to the Nth degree, because that will be where they try to jam you up if you ever have to utilize the extended warranty.
 
Tires, plugs, brake pads and other wear items should be replaced as needed. Driving conditions vary and I would not replace those parts just based on mileage if they still had serviceable life.
 
JustinH said:
I purchased a low mileage (Sub 10k miles) base model 17 Tuscon SE for my wife a few years back before the used market went crazy.

Because I completed all the recalls, I received the letter that the 2.0L NU non turbo GDI motor has been granted a warranty extended to 150k miles.

This car is paid off, my wife and I agreed that she would drive it to 150k miles.

My services so far.

Once a year air filters and cabin filters regardless of mileage of condition.

Techron every 3k.

30k miles- walmart battery replaced OEM.

30k miles- NGK Plugs (DIY).

40k miles replaced OEM tires with Goodyear.

45k miles, brake pads all the way around and had rotors turned. Fluid completely flushed with new.

At 50k miles, I had a BG/NAPA shop do some service. Changed coolant with a vaccum machine, and changed automatic transmission fluid with a machine. Mobil products used.

They also changed the oil with mobil syn blend 5w30 and a napa oil filter.

For a $14,000 used car this thing drives like a top, and I'm making sure that every single oil change is reported to carfax to keep up with the hyundai engine extended warranty.

The car uses about half a quart of oil between 3750 oil changes, the shop recommends BG Induction service for $199.

I think i am doing far more service than the average hyun/kia owner, but I think with this schedule I can get the car to 150k miles so long as I keep the oil level up.

Does the group here recommend the BG Induction services for this engine? I know I can buy GDI cleaner and spray it into the running engine, but the BG service uses specialized equipment.
Click to expand...

JustinH said:
I purchased a low mileage (Sub 10k miles) base model 17 Tuscon SE for my wife a few years back before the used market went crazy.

Because I completed all the recalls, I received the letter that the 2.0L NU non turbo GDI motor has been granted a warranty extended to 150k miles.

This car is paid off, my wife and I agreed that she would drive it to 150k miles.

My services so far.

Once a year air filters and cabin filters regardless of mileage of condition.

Techron every 3k.

30k miles- walmart battery replaced OEM.

30k miles- NGK Plugs (DIY).

40k miles replaced OEM tires with Goodyear.

45k miles, brake pads all the way around and had rotors turned. Fluid completely flushed with new.

At 50k miles, I had a BG/NAPA shop do some service. Changed coolant with a vaccum machine, and changed automatic transmission fluid with a machine. Mobil products used.

They also changed the oil with mobil syn blend 5w30 and a napa oil filter.

For a $14,000 used car this thing drives like a top, and I'm making sure that every single oil change is reported to carfax to keep up with the hyundai engine extended warranty.

The car uses about half a quart of oil between 3750 oil changes, the shop recommends BG Induction service for $199.

I think i am doing far more service than the average hyun/kia owner, but I think with this schedule I can get the car to 150k miles so long as I keep the oil level up.

Does the group here recommend the BG Induction services for this engine? I know I can buy GDI cleaner and spray it into the running engine, but the BG service uses specialized equipment.
Click to expand...
neighbour has a 2017 but in awd closing in on 60k dealer maintained always ! just approved for new engine .
has excessive oil consumption.
 
Do oil changes no more than 5,000 miles which seems like you got that covered at 3,750 miles. Not sure why they went with a synthetic blend on such a new car, I would go with a full synthetic unless there is a TSB stating otherwise.

And unless I overlooked it I see no mention of servicing the transmission? consider doing that every 35-40,000 miles.
 
OEM PCV valve, look into replacing. Maybe that will help with oil consumption. HPL Engine Cleaner for 2k miles. Then two runs/intervals of HPL oil to clean things up. Regular M1 oils after that since only 3750 oci's which I agree with. During summer run M1 5w40 since it's one of the best cleaning oils. Plus all the other good tips already mentioned.
 
ATF level... too many shops trust their quart out and quart in ATF flush machines. Make sure the ATF level is checked at the proper temp. Make sure that they used an LV full synthetic HFM'd ATF and that they did NOT use any treatments or flush chemicals. If so, perform a couple drain/refills to eliminate any residual chem.

Same with coolant.... verify full cold bottle level. Find out what coolant was used. If not an Asian type, I would get it out. Don't care for the 2eha allmakesmodels stuff.

I don't care for so-called coolant flush machines. Nothing wrong with a slightly more frequent DIY radiator drain/refill.

Oil.... good that you stepped up to a 5w30 in place of the 20 grade. Nothing wrong with a blend oil. Adjust oil grade for your local climate. My 2.4GDI, which doesn't recommend 40 grades like the 2.0t, gets less drainplug magnet buildup with 40 grade oils. So, I'd recommend a 0w40 or 5w40. We picked the 2.4GDI because the naturally aspirated 2.0 was anemic, and the 2.0T was a fuel hog.

I would definitely consider an induction cleaning service. Skip the profit margins and use any of the intake/valve/port/manifold cleaning sprays and DIY for
And, verify the oil grade with your driving style via UOA. See how much fuel that you're adding to your oil and adapt the oil grade/interval to that data. Your weather/driving style might demand a more aggressive 3k interval, or a thicker oil, or a less aggressive 4k-5k interval with better MPG lesser visc oil.

There are so many different oil filters available... my only recommendation is to verify the silicone ADBV. Your 3750 mile interval does not require overpriced or fancy filters. Make sure there is no startup clatter and keep driving. If you get any cold startup noise, swap in a different oil filter. Too many Napa/Wix PN's and changes over the years.

Get a magnetic drain plug. Study it at each interval especially if you use different brands/grades of oil.

And, even though oil consumption is 1/2 a quart per interval, check often and top off in ounces. Keep the oil level optimal full always. I'd consider 500-1000 mile top offs using a 40 or 50 grade synthetic oil. PCV valve is a start. Unless crud/sludged, and doubtful with 3750 interval, don't expect it to be an oil consumption fixer. Exclusive of sludge up valves, I have yet to see the PCV valve fix an oil burning HyundaiKia.

If using toptier fuel, the Techron, or using any competitor product so don't get hung up on Techron only, can be utilized less frequently. If not toptier fuel, stick with that 3k interval. Keep those injectors, pistons, combustion chambers clean and as carbon free as possible.

My engine air filter after 1 year/10k miles was pretty much spotless. No need to change too often. I will be now changing at 20k/2yr, and depending on commute, maybe even step up to 3yr/30k engine air filter interval. Cabin air filter is yearly or more because of the dust/pollen around here causing her allergy problems, and various critters too, means that the CAF is inspected every couple months and replaced as needed.

Replace the thermostat, pressure cap, and serpentine belt at 100k or 10years. Have seen plenty of thermostat problems with HyundaiKia and think it would be a do more often than ignore and wait for catastrophic overheat failure.

With the number of burnt Hyundai valves, verify the factory service manual for any valve adjustments. 60k-100k is a good initial startup check point for measurement and decide on whether needing the full service adjustment across all.
 
dishdude said:
Stop wasting money on Techron, flushes, cleaners, induction services and additives. Keep a close eye on the oil level.
Click to expand...
I'd go along with D'dudes suggestion on the Techron, although I don't believe it will hurt anything. The induction service may be a good idea. In any case, always use Top Tier gasoline as that'll do what you're hoping the Techron will do.

I'd move the oil up a notch from syn blend to at least Mobil 1 and would suggest a 5W-30 viscosity if you're not already using it.
 
I would definately do an intake valve cleaning yearly. On my Tucson I started used Berryman GDI cleaner. It comes with hoses and automatically meters out the correct amount. Much easier than The spray can system that I was using. Take care of it and you should be able to go beyond 150K. And if you are lucky the motor will go under warranty and you will start out with a fresh engine at no charge.
 
Don’t think I have much to add beyond what’s written but hopefully I hit 150k too without trouble or at least have my bottom end go out in a convenient area and time.

I decided to leave the carbon buildup alone since from what I can tell I haven’t see too much anecdotes of it causing trouble over at Kia/Hyundai forums. I want to say HyunKia’s workaround is dumping extra fuel in on cold start?

If you have AWD, there’s also the transfer case and rear diff oil to look out for but it’ll probably be a bit before you hit the recommended severe change interval. The AWD clutch/coupler is a sealed unit and while it technically can be changed it’s a big PITA. Mine started going bad at 118k but I was also tougher on it. (same AWD part in the era Sportage/Sorento/Tucson/Santa Fe, but I have the 2.4L in a bigger Sorento)

But yea I second ATF and the PCV.
 
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