Fuse ?

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Feb 6, 2009
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I pulled this fuse from my wife’s crv. The drivers rear window won’t go down. It seems to not be blown. I didn’t notice till I compared it to a new fuse, If you look at the prongs the ends are rounded off and they’re discolored, is this normal, should I just put the new fuse in without worrying about anything going wrong?
 

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It doesn't look blown in the picture.

Usually, when you see that discoloring on an electrical connection it indicates a loose connection.
The discoloring is caused by heat.
 
I always check fuses for continuity with a multimeter. Sometimes it's just the oxides/corrosion on the prongs.
Now I'd check to see if you get power at the fuse (with a multimeter or simple light bulb tester.). Then go to the wiring diagram. It's a pain to pull off panels to go straight to the lift motor, but that's probably where you're going to end up.
Sometimes it's the switch, but usually at the motor.
 
Did it blow the fuse?
No, just peeking around online, I read a few posts stating the fuse could be blown even if the middle connection is still connected. I’m not a car guy if it doesn’t relate to fluid swaps.
 
I always check fuses for continuity with a multimeter. Sometimes it's just the oxides/corrosion on the prongs.
Now I'd check to see if you get power at the fuse (with a multimeter or simple light bulb tester.). Then go to the wiring diagram. It's a pain to pull off panels to go straight to the lift motor, but that's probably where you're going to end up.
Sometimes it's the switch, but usually at the motor.
It gave no indication of “hurting/slowing down etc”, just rolled it up and couldn’t roll it back down.
 
It doesn't look blown in the picture.

Usually, when you see that discoloring on an electrical connection it indicates a loose connection.
The discoloring is caused by heat.
The middle connection is completely together, i wasn’t sure what the discoloration meant.
 
It gave no indication of “hurting/slowing down etc”, just rolled it up and couldn’t roll it back down.
Sometimes things just quit with no notice.
You can troubleshoot by checking the wiring from the power source to the motor, or from the motor back to the power source.
That's why I suggested testing for power at the fuse. It narrows it down a little bit.
Usually the switch panel is easy to pry out or unscrew from the door. Then check to see if the switch gets power. Then see if the switch passes power.
There is probably a relay in there too. I don't have a wiring diagram for your car. But you can usually swap the relay for an easy check there.
If you follow the power from source to motor, you'll isolate where the circuit has an interruption, i.e. bad switch, bad connector, loose plug,.......
 
If you dont have a meter, you may have to just put in another fuse and see if the window works even for a moment. An electric motor draws more current when it starts going bad. You really need some sort of meter. Take the door panel off, unhook the connection at the lift motor. Put in new fuse and check for current in the connector when using the switch.
 
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