FlexHead Ratchet

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Originally Posted By: dlundblad


Also, why does he have Trusty Cook hammers on the table? Those are still made in USA. Right down in Indianapolis actually. My employer has their spindle liners and they give you a free #1 or #2 soft face dead blow with each purchase. Their dead blow ball peens are nice too.


No idea maybe he got them confused with these.

https://www.toolsource.com/dead-blow-c-1...01gtasdh957pc65

Edit: I just looked at the video again they are Armstrong Hammers on the table not Cook.
 
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Originally Posted By: Trav
Originally Posted By: dlundblad


Also, why does he have Trusty Cook hammers on the table? Those are still made in USA. Right down in Indianapolis actually. My employer has their spindle liners and they give you a free #1 or #2 soft face dead blow with each purchase. Their dead blow ball peens are nice too.


No idea maybe he got them confused with these.

https://www.toolsource.com/dead-blow-c-1...01gtasdh957pc65


Those are most likely rebadged Trusty Cook.

My point being there was nothing for him to cry about because they are still made by the OEM.
 
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I only posted the video, if you see some discrepancy then leave him a comment. It could be he doesn't know Armstrong buys them from another source.
21.gif
 
Looks like someone did.

Like always, the OP didn't reply so who knows if they read it.

I know you only posted the video. Just making conversation.
 
Yep I know, its cool, I enjoy the conversation. The more info we gather about the ever changing production of tools the better.
What has happened to the once great tool manufacturers in this country is a GD shame.
 
Originally Posted By: Astro14
Originally Posted By: Trav
The old Craftsman were very good but don't confuse the trash they peddle now with them, the new ones are Chinese scrap metal.

This Proto is a good tool, its actually made by Facom in Italy or France. Good buy for the money.

Proto

The Williams is USA made and basically an old Snap On. With 36T it should be good and strong.

Williams


The Proto looks like it will fit into some small spaces!

I'll know more when it arrives on Thursday (Prime shipping)...

Cheers!


See if it fits in there when you do the P2's control arms!

My 120XP fit when the bolt was fully threaded in, but it wasn't strong enough to break them free.
 
This is one of my few Snap-on tools, a 3/8th long handle flex head that is by far my most favorite wrench that I bought over 30 years ago for like $40, and it was worth every penny.
 
Originally Posted By: Cujet
I've got the Husky one with extending handle. It's a really handy tool.

IMG_1240.jpg



I have it but for whatever reason, it never became my favorite ratchet. Something about balance is off on it and is not pleasure to use.

But for the price paid, nothing comes close.
 
That's my default go to oil change ratchet. $15 at Wally's with some cheap sockets. Stanley branded which is the same.
Open it up for extra leverage and close it to install.
I agree it not a comfortable ratchet at all and I never use it for anything else but for what I use it for its good.
 
If you never buy a quality flex head ratchet wrench, you will never know what you are missing. They are one of best designs out there for being able to loosen most fasteners, by being able to weave up, and around obstructions, along with being able to find the best angle for the task. Always my first wrench to try. And they make a great speed wrench when the handle can be used in the straight up position. It is the best spark plug wrench for sure.
 
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Originally Posted By: Trav
Do you have one? How much play is in the flex joint?

I have 2 Snap-On flex head ratchets; 3 if you count the torque wrench.
I inherited most of my tools from my older brother Greg, who operated Comprehensive Mechanics in Santa Cruz, CA.
He got cancer and died at 44, back in 1995.
Gave me his hand tools stuffed into 2 Snap On roll-aways.

I do have a 1/2" drive HF long handle ratchet; I like it.
You will be happy with the HF. Not a lotta play in the flex; it's fine.

Again, if it is at all in your budget, buy the Snap On.
You will never regret it.
 
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Originally Posted by Trav
...Even though the old craftsmans look alike they were made by different manufacturers like , SK, JH Williams (pre Snap-On, Armstrong, Western Forge, etc and one of the best the V code made by Easco.

The finish on these tools was for the most part was a little less refined than their big name counterparts but the steel and internals were top shelf...


I have a 11.5" Craftsman made-in-USA 3/8"-drive flex head ratchet with the code VVW. Was it manufactured by Easco? I can't remember when I bought it.
 
I have posted this before but for those that don't have here it is again. I printed it and use it at flea markets and estate sales. Credit for it goes to an unknown to me poster on another forum years ago.
BTW you ratchet is.. VVW = Danaher, ca. 2008. Not bad quality at all for that later date, probably made by Armstrong. I still have (somewhere, I don't use them anymore) old V Easco ratchets with the check ball in the front for lubing I bought new in the early 80's, you can still find nice examples of these and the Craftsman stainless ratchets from the late 80's at flea markets for short money.

Look for Craftsman Pro full polish wrenches with a very small "k" on them, if you find them buy them, they are SK and really good wrenches.


Early Craftsman Series (generally pre-1947, with some exceptions):

BC = unknown U.S. manufacturer, ca. ? - ?

BE = New Britain, ca. 1931 - 1947

BM = S-K, ca. 1939 - 1951

BT = unknown U.S. manufacturer, ca. 1936 - 1938

Cxx = Probably New Britain or Hinsdale, ca. 1930 - 1936

CI = unknown U.S manu., ca. 1930 - 1945

CF or C-F = Herbrand, ca. 1934 - 1939

Craftsman Vanadium = unknown U.S. Manu, ca. 1931 - 1941

C8 = JP Danielson, ca. 1930 -1936

F-circle = Miller Falls, ca. 1949 - 1964

G-circle = possibly Lectrolite, ca. 1949 - 1964

H-circle = New Britain, ca. 1931 - 1947

K-circle = SK, ca. 1939 - 1951 perhaps later

N-square = unknown U.S. manu., ca ? - ?

P-circle = Wilde, ca. 1945 - 1960

S-circle = Kastar, ca. 1960 - 2008, perhaps earlier

V-circle = unknown U.S. manu., ca. ? - 1985

U-circle = Plomb, ca. 1944 - 1948

Z-circle = Mayhew, ca. 1957 - 1969


Modern Craftsman Series (generally 1947 and later, with some exceptions):

BF = probably Daido, possibly Hozan, Japanese made, ca 1969 - 1987

C = unknown U.S. manu., ca. 1991

C = Stanley Works, Taiwanese made, ca. ? - ?
(note--this is a Canadian Craftsman series code)

CG = unknown U.S. manu., ca. 2001 - 2005

D = Kington, Chinese made, ca. 1992 - 2008

DJ = Mitutoyo, Japanese made, ca. 1968 perhaps earlier & later

E/EE = National Hand Tools/later Stanley Works-NHT division, some USA made, most Taiwanese made, ca. 1982 - 1991

EEE/EEC/EE7 = Stanley Works, Taiwanese made, ca. 1988 - 2009
(note--these are Canadian Craftsman series codes)

F = Danaher/possibly K-D division, ca. ? - 2008

G = Easco, ca. 1980 - 1989 perhaps as early as 1979 when Easco acquired the Gastonia plant

G continued = Danaher, ca. 1990 - 2009

G1 = Danaher, ca. 2000

G2 = Danaher, ca. ? - 2008

G2D = Danaher, ca. 2008 - 2009

GD = Danaher, ca. 2008 - 2009

GK = Danaher/Kingsley Tools Division, ca. 2003 - 2008

GK-A = Danaher/Kingsley Tools Division, ca. 1999 - 2003

GK-F = Danaher/Kinsley Tools Division, ca. 2007 - 2008

GK-G = Danaher/Kingsley Tools Division, ca. 2007 - 2008

GK-X = Danaher/Kinsley Tools Division, ca. ? - 2008

H = Danaher/Holo-Krome, ca. 1994 - 2009

HZ = Danaher/Holo-Krome, ca. ? - 2008

HZ O = Danaher/Holo-Krome, ca. 2009-2009

HZ OO = Danaher/Holo-Krome, ca. 2008 - 2009

I-circle = Parker Mfg Co, ca. 1965 - 1986

JW = J.H. Williams & Co, ca. 1954 - 1972

K = SK division of Facom, ca. 1985 - 2004, could still be NOS

K1W = Danaher, ca. 2007

K3V = Danaher, ca. ? - 2008

K3X = Danaher, ca. 2007 -2008

K9W = Danaher, ca. 2008 - 2009

KR = Danaher, ca. 2005 - 2008

KU = Danaher, ca. ? - 2008

KV = Danaher, ca. ? - 2008

KW = Danaher, ca. 2002 - 2008, probably earlier

KX = Danaher, ca. 2002 - 2008, probably earlier

L1X = Danaher, ca. 2008 - ?

L SI = Simmonds International, ca. 2008 - 2009

M6W = Dahaher, ca. 2007 - 2008

N = Pratt Read, ca. 2007 - 2009

OA = Unknown U.S. manu., ca. ? - ?

P = Wilde, ca. 2008 - 2009, perhaps earlier

Q = Pratt Read, ca. 2002 - 2006

R = Pratt Read, ca. 2002 - 2006

PR = Pratt Read, ca. 2002 - 2009

Q PR = Pratt Read, ca. ? - ?

S PR = Pratt Read, ca. 2007 - 2008

T PR = Pratt Read, ca. 2007 - 2008

U PR1-3 = Pratt Read, ca. 2008

V PR = Pratt Read, ca. 2007 - 2008

W PR = Pratt Read, ca 2007 - 2009

X PR = Pratt Reed, ca. 2009 - 2009

ST = Stanley Works, likely Taiwanese made, ca. 2007 - 2009
(note- this is a Canadian Craftsman series code)

T1V = Danaher, ca. 2006 - 2007

T2W = Danaher, ca. 2008

T3W = Danaher, ca. 2008

T5V = Danaher, ca. 2008

T5W = Danaher, ca. 2008

T5X = Danaher, ca. 2008

V = Moore Drop Forge, ca. 1938 - 1967

V (continued) = Easco, ca. 1968 - 1986 perhaps as late as 1991 as NOS

VF = Danaher, ca. likely early 1990's

VG = Danaher, ca. 1994 - 1995

VH = Danaher, ca. 1994 - 1997

VJ = Danaher, ca. 1994 - 2008

VK = Danaher, ca. 1996 - ?

VL = Danaher, ca. ? - ?

VM = Danaher, ca. ? - ?

VN = Danaher, ca. 1999 - 2001

VP = Danaher, ca. ? - ?

VQ = Danaher, ca. 2001 - 2004

VR = Danaher, ca. 2002

VS = Danaher, ca. 1995 - 2003

VT = Danaher, ca. 2002 - 2006

VU = Danaher, ca. 2005

VV = Easco, ca. 1978 - 1989

VV continued = Danaher, ca. 1990 - 2009

VW = Danaher, ca. 2002 - 2008

VVY = Danaher, ca. 2009 - ?

V^(2nd V inverted) = Danaher, Armstrong Division, ca. 1992 - 2008

VVL = Danaher, ca. 2000 - ?

VVN = Danaher, ca. 2005

VVS = Danaher, ca. 2003

VVT = Danaher, ca. 2004 - 2005

VVV = Danaher, ca. 2008

VVW = Danaher, ca. 2008

VVX = Danaher, ca. 2002 - 2008, possibly earlier

W = SK Hand tools, post-Facom , ca. 2005 - 2008

WF = Western Forge, ca. 1965 - 2008

WF ll = Western Forge, ca. 1969

WF D = Western Forge, ca. ?

WF J = Western Forge, ca. 1991 - ?

WF K = Western Forge, ca. ?

WF L = Western Forge, ca. ? - 2009

WF R = Western Forge, ca. ?

WF U = Western Forge, ca. 2008

WF V = Western Forge, ca. 2008 - 2009

WF W = Western Forge, ca. 2002 - 2009

WF X = Western Forge, ca. 2008 - 2009

WF Y = Western Forge, ca. 2009 - 2009

A WF = Western Forge, ca. ?

B WF = Western Forge, ca. ?

C WF = Western Forge, ca. ?

D WF = Western Forge, ca. 1993 - 2000

E WF = Western Forge, ca. ?

F WF = Western Forge, ca. 2003

G WF = Western Forge, ca. ?

H WF = Western Forge, ca. ?

J WF = Western Forge, ca. 1995

K WF = Western Forge, ca. 1995

L WF = Western Forge, ca. ?

M WF = Western Forge, ca. ?

N WF = Western Forge, ca. ?

O WF = Western Forge, ca. ?

P WF = Western Forge, ca. ?

Q WF = Western Forge, ca. 1990 - 1995

S WF = Western Forge, ca. 2009

T WF = Western Forge, ca. 2002 - 2009

U WF = Western Forge, ca. ?

V WF = Western Forge, ca. 2002 - 2009

W WF = Western Forge, ca. 2002 - 2009

X WF = Western Forge, ca. 1965 - 2009

Y WF = Western Forge, ca. 2009 - 2009

+ WF = Western Forge, ca. 1965 - ?

* WF = Western Forge, ca. 1965 - ?

> WF = Western Forge, ca. ?

|| WF = Western Forge, ca. ?

∆ WF = Western Forge, ca. 1966 - ?

â–¡ WF = Western Forge, ca. 1965 - ?

7 WF = Western Forge, ca. ?

X = SK Hand tools, post-Facom , ca. 2008 - 2009

Z = Mayhew, ca. 1957 - 2008

3 = Kastar, ca. 1991

4 = Kastar, ca. 1992

[ = Kastar, ca. 2002 - 2009 possibly earlier

.(Dot) = SK, ca. 2008 - 2009
 
I have the Carlyle locking flex head, purchased as a gift to myself when NAPA had some kind of sale earlier this year. It paid for itself last month when I replaced the Honda Pilot radiator, and it removed lower radiator mounting bolts in tight places that no other tool I had could. BTW I am not a fan of non-locking flex heads. Maybe they have some use I'm not aware of. I haven't found any job that they didn't make harder.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/CHQR38LFLQR
 
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