FL-910-S Cut Open

[Lonzbera]

On a 2021 Ford Ranger for about 8~ months 8K~ miles. Not sure what the oil was, dealer fill. I didn’t know what the residue looks like RTV or some kind of sealant was in the pleats. Another user posted an FL-500S cut open yesterday & it had the same exact stuff in it.

Tried to use another FL-910-S but the threads were messed up it wouldn’t even sit flush. I’ll open that one up & see if there is glue in places it shouldn’t be.
Replaced with a FS3614 & Total Quartz 9000 5W-30.

 

[ZeeOSix]

Yep, that's the sloppy glue job coming loose inside the filter, which IMO is risky because if one of those pieces gets through the bypass valve and goes into the engine it could block a small oil passage and cause oil starvation. Plus the Motorcrafts I've looked at lately at the stores have some boarder line louvers IMO. I've noticed the Motorcraft filter quality has been getting worse over the last couple years. I also know that they reduced the filter media area in the FL500S because I keep track of that when ever I cut one open.

I think I'm going to stop buying Motorcraft filters, and it seems Motorcraft doesn't really care about the base end bypass valve anymore with their new line of what looks like Champ Labs built filters to replace the Purolator built Motorcraft filters.

 

[TheOilWizard]

Not good. Now I want to check my FL-910s filters.

We're starting to run out of quality filters to choose from.

I had a similar concern with a CarQuest premium:

Carquest Premium 85348

Is anyone interested in seeing a cut and post of a Carquest Premium #85348? It's pulled from a Ford Focus with about 4K miles over 5 months. Side note, this oil filter actually looks to be a decent value. Can be picked up at Advance Auto for a little over 6 dollars.

bobistheoilguy.com

 

[Lonzbera]

The filter I removed had the end top fall off easily no glue I don’t think, the “new” filter I cut open with the bad threads had it glued on.

Yeah I don’t know what the next filter will be, probably not a Motorcraft.

 

[fantastic]

The filter I removed had the end top fall off easily no glue I don’t think, the “new” filter I cut open with the bad threads had it glued on.

Yeah I don’t know what the next filter will be, probably not a Motorcraft.

Grab any of the three Purolator oil filter's along w/it's spec sheet.

 

[ZeeOSix]

Grab any of the three Purolator oil filter's along w/it's spec sheet.

Motorcraft filters are made by Purolator/M+H. The new line of some Motorcrafts look to be made by Champ Labs - few threads have been posted about the new replacement Motorcraft line.

 

[fantastic]

Motorcraft filters are made by Purolator/M+H. The new line of some Motorcrafts look to be made by Champ Labs - few threads have been posted about the new replacement Motorcraft line.

Well shoot...My propaganda is getting lazy.

The base plate does look Purolator but that just means there are still two other Purolator options left. Just have to figure out if this is a specialty filter for motorcraft only or just a standard Purolator classic filter. That still leaves the One & Boss which may have more QC b/c it's got their own name on the cans. We know this is not a Boss filter at least.

 

[ZeeOSix]

^^^ Motorcrafts have been made by Purolator for a very long time. But Motorcraft has a replacement line out for some of their models that look to be Champ Lab made - been a few threads about that in this forum. The Boss is definately made different, but the Purolator classic and One are essentially made like the Motorcrafts.

 

[ctechbob]

My 910S's always looked good, but I haven't used them in a while. Moved on to a longer Bosch in the Ranger, and the next ones up are the longer Motorcraft version, forget the number offhand.

 

[MrCoyote]

What’s the date code on this filter and the unused one you cut open?

 

[Lonzbera]

What’s the date code on this filter and the unused one you cut open?

 

[MrCoyote]

Wow. Those were both manufactured this year. I thought MC would’ve taken care of this glue issue by now, but it seems not.

 

[Soft Cars]

Is the top end cap supposed to be removable?

 

[ZeeOSix]

Is the top end cap supposed to be removable?

No ... know as the "end cap popper syndrome".

 

[Soft Cars]

No ... know as the "end cap popper syndrome".

End Cap Associated Popper Syndrome - ECAPS

 

[jim302]

MANN+HUMMEL's North America operations are really hitting it out of the park here. I just don't get it... their filters from Europe and Asia seem to always look great, but their plants in the US and Mexico seem to struggle at putting out a consistently good product.

It is sad to see sloppy glue, barely punched out louvers and poor pleat spacing leading to the occasional ripped media after use.

 

[Bighorn2500]

Luckily my last one looked better then that, I’ll keep my fingers crossed on the next few I have on the shelf for the nephews Ford Escape.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

On a 2021 Ford Ranger for about 8~ months 8K~ miles. Not sure what the oil was, dealer fill. I didn’t know what the residue looks like RTV or some kind of sealant was in the pleats. Another user posted an FL-500S cut open yesterday & it had the same exact stuff in it.

Tried to use another FL-910-S but the threads were messed up it wouldn’t even sit flush. I’ll open that one up & see if there is glue in places it shouldn’t be.
Replaced with a FS3614 & Total Quartz 9000 5W-30.

Last job I was on (before retiring) we used to get "clean" stamped metal parts in from the supplier and many times they were not degreased or dewaxed. This posed a problem as we didn't have a large batch cleaning process in place, and with EPA regs it's not easy - and also very - costly to get something like that up and running.

So, likely waxy or oily stamped endcaps where the adhesive would not attach - seen that before may times - and a good reason for the "cardboard" endcaps on the FRAM or no endcap on some Denso. This defect very easy to get past the Incoming QA metrologist who is focused on dimensional aspects and form then general "undamaged " appearance and finally part count verification.

I wouldn't be so fast to perform an "internet" FMEA on the loose materials, though errant filter assembly adhesive is one possibility. One would think the material would prefer to stay attached to itself or the media unless the adhesive was grossly overapplied and spilled over the endcap "wall"

I am not ready to give up my Motorcraft spin-on.

 

[bullwinkle]

The spring will hold the whole works together-compared to bad pleat spacing/torn media, seams with holes, and munched ADBVs (due to non-deburred base plates [more M&H sloppiness]), the end cap popping is nothing. Now the other things...

 

[Fahrvergnügen]

I have never seen a ford engine fail using the FL910-S. Never ever. Nor any other motorcraft filter.