You might be able to change it over to a TB type set up if you want to spend the cash. You could check Jegs or Summit to see. New manifold, TB, some electronics, etc, and you'd be golden. Probably see a nice HP gain too.........Its only money!
Electric Choke On Quadrajet Carburetor
- Thread starter c3po
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My 04 Marauder has fuel injection, it does not matter what the weather is like, start it up and go, my mechanic buddy said change the fuel filter at least every 2 years or 20,000 miles and I should never have any problems.
He also recommended Amsoil PI or Techron once a year.
I will wait for fuel injection or only do it on another engine in the El Camino.
He also recommended Amsoil PI or Techron once a year.
I will wait for fuel injection or only do it on another engine in the El Camino.
FI is light years ahead of the carb. If you listen to your mechanic buddy you won't have any problems with it.
Originally Posted By: c3po
Originally Posted By: tom slick
Does it fast idle when cold?
It does not fast idle when it is cold. I have a CarQuest right up the street so I will stop in and see what they have, and again it is an ELECTRIC CHOKE.
That tells me the choke is not working. When the choke is closed it should hold the throttle open slightly.
Originally Posted By: tom slick
Does it fast idle when cold?
It does not fast idle when it is cold. I have a CarQuest right up the street so I will stop in and see what they have, and again it is an ELECTRIC CHOKE.
That tells me the choke is not working. When the choke is closed it should hold the throttle open slightly.
Clean the heating coil. It is a spring, in one sense, but it is a bimetallic coil.
You have to take it apart to do it right.
And choke adjustments are seasonal. One setting will NOT be right all year round.
It may sound odd,but you MAY have to go LEANER in the winter, because of a slower heating time!
But they need to be set for summer or winter, no way around it.
Also, you may want to give less accelerator pump in the summer, and more in the winter.
You have to take it apart to do it right.
And choke adjustments are seasonal. One setting will NOT be right all year round.
It may sound odd,but you MAY have to go LEANER in the winter, because of a slower heating time!
But they need to be set for summer or winter, no way around it.
Also, you may want to give less accelerator pump in the summer, and more in the winter.
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Clean the heating coil. It is a spring, in one sense, but it is a bimetallic coil.
You have to take it apart to do it right.
And choke adjustments are seasonal. One setting will NOT be right all year round.
It may sound odd,but you MAY have to go LEANER in the winter, because of a slower heating time!
But they need to be set for summer or winter, no way around it.
Also, you may want to give less accelerator pump in the summer, and more in the winter.
Thank's for your expert advice, I will copy this and bring it to my mechanic. Do you clean the heating coil with carb cleaner.
Clean the heating coil. It is a spring, in one sense, but it is a bimetallic coil.
You have to take it apart to do it right.
And choke adjustments are seasonal. One setting will NOT be right all year round.
It may sound odd,but you MAY have to go LEANER in the winter, because of a slower heating time!
But they need to be set for summer or winter, no way around it.
Also, you may want to give less accelerator pump in the summer, and more in the winter.
Thank's for your expert advice, I will copy this and bring it to my mechanic. Do you clean the heating coil with carb cleaner.
All there is 25 years of grime and dust probably preventing the regular movement. They enter from the tiny adjustment hole back side of the spring housing. After removal nylon bristles and penetration oil should do it.
Can you check for electrical continuity? Is electricity coming to the choke lead or engine block is grounded? If there is elecrtic, lead and ground of the choke have infinite resisitance you need to replace the choke.
Can you check for electrical continuity? Is electricity coming to the choke lead or engine block is grounded? If there is elecrtic, lead and ground of the choke have infinite resisitance you need to replace the choke.
Originally Posted By: ikeepmychevytoo
All there is 25 years of grime and dust probably preventing the regular movement. They enter from the tiny adjustment hole back side of the spring housing. After removal nylon bristles and penetration oil should do it.
Can you check for electrical continuity? Is electricity coming to the choke lead or engine block is grounded? If there is elecrtic, lead and ground of the choke have infinite resisitance you need to replace the choke.
The carburetor on there is about 5 years old, but I will still follow what you have said, and I appreciate everyone's comments.
All there is 25 years of grime and dust probably preventing the regular movement. They enter from the tiny adjustment hole back side of the spring housing. After removal nylon bristles and penetration oil should do it.
Can you check for electrical continuity? Is electricity coming to the choke lead or engine block is grounded? If there is elecrtic, lead and ground of the choke have infinite resisitance you need to replace the choke.
The carburetor on there is about 5 years old, but I will still follow what you have said, and I appreciate everyone's comments.
I called up my mechanic buddy and I had a blown fuse and that is why the electric choke was not working.
I guess I cannot complain, that fuse has been on there for 26 years and 366,000 miles.
When I get the car back I am going to be putting the car in the garage for a while until the warmer weather comes back. I will let everyone know how things go when I get the car back tomorow.
I guess I cannot complain, that fuse has been on there for 26 years and 366,000 miles.
When I get the car back I am going to be putting the car in the garage for a while until the warmer weather comes back. I will let everyone know how things go when I get the car back tomorow.
Did your tail lights come back on with the choke fuse replacement?
My mechanic buddy called back and said that my coil spring inside the choke housing is bad since the engine will now just keep revving high like the choke is on, he is going to see what he has in his parts bin.
I will go see him tommorow.
I will go see him tommorow.
Q-jet chokes can be a PIA, but when they are adjusted right they work very well. If the electric choke coil is bad, that'll have to be replaced. Once that's replaced, you'll have to adjust the choke in it's housing (all Q-jets can be made to be adjustable, emission models had rivets that are drilled and replaced with screws).
As others have said CHECK your primary pull-off. This is the MOST commom problem with these chokes. Make sure it holds vaccum (a pull off is much cheaper than a choke). The pull off has to be adjusted as well. When the choke is engaged before the car starts, it will close all the way shut. Once it's started the pull off will allow the choke to open a certain amount. If it opens too much will cause the car to run lean, and it will stall out when you put a load on it. Too little, and the car will chug, run rich, and possibly have black smoke.
This can be set by trial and error. Typically, I will eyeball it to about a 1/16 gap or so. Then I will start the car STONE cold and fine tune it from there. Sometimes it take a couple of mornings to get it right.
Also check your fast idle adjustment, make sure you set the fast idle speed. There is a screw on the linkage near the fast idle cam.
Adjusting chokes can be an art, but it can be done by trail and error. It's amazing how a few simple adjustments can make such a big difference. A co-worker had a 78 Corvette that he had to "warm up" for 2 minutes in the summer or it wouldn't drive. I told him that was unacceptable and I'd repair it for him. Two days later the car would start, and could drive away without ANY issues. No parts were faulty, nothing was replaced, it was all choke adjustments.
As others have said CHECK your primary pull-off. This is the MOST commom problem with these chokes. Make sure it holds vaccum (a pull off is much cheaper than a choke). The pull off has to be adjusted as well. When the choke is engaged before the car starts, it will close all the way shut. Once it's started the pull off will allow the choke to open a certain amount. If it opens too much will cause the car to run lean, and it will stall out when you put a load on it. Too little, and the car will chug, run rich, and possibly have black smoke.
This can be set by trial and error. Typically, I will eyeball it to about a 1/16 gap or so. Then I will start the car STONE cold and fine tune it from there. Sometimes it take a couple of mornings to get it right.
Also check your fast idle adjustment, make sure you set the fast idle speed. There is a screw on the linkage near the fast idle cam.
Adjusting chokes can be an art, but it can be done by trail and error. It's amazing how a few simple adjustments can make such a big difference. A co-worker had a 78 Corvette that he had to "warm up" for 2 minutes in the summer or it wouldn't drive. I told him that was unacceptable and I'd repair it for him. Two days later the car would start, and could drive away without ANY issues. No parts were faulty, nothing was replaced, it was all choke adjustments.
My mechanic buddy had 2 new electric choke coils, he is letting the car sit overnite and he will see how things go tommorow morning.
He is going to use a tool that is called a choke gauge, to set the gap.
When my car was cold it would backfire if I hit the gas too hard, so I was basically letting it idle for a few minutes.
The good thing about this mechanic is that he is 62 years old and has been working on cars for such a long time that he is familiar with this stuff.
Most of the newer mechanics are not that familiar with carburetors since 1987 was the last year GM used carburetors, I can see why.
He is going to use a tool that is called a choke gauge, to set the gap.
When my car was cold it would backfire if I hit the gas too hard, so I was basically letting it idle for a few minutes.
The good thing about this mechanic is that he is 62 years old and has been working on cars for such a long time that he is familiar with this stuff.
Most of the newer mechanics are not that familiar with carburetors since 1987 was the last year GM used carburetors, I can see why.
I have an update, the car started up and it was doing the same thing, I told the mechanic I should not have to sit with the car running for 7 minutes.
I started the car this morning and took off the air cleaner and watched the choke go from closed to fully open within a minute, so I tried to drive off and it stumbled.
The fast idle is not working, I called up the Chevy dealer and said that I will be dropping it off Sunday night, I will come up on Monday and watch my mechanic buddy fix it right there out in the cold and get this thing right, if not then they can refund my credit card.
I have it in my Dad's garage and I will check the fuse for the electric choke to rule that out, they did have to replace a fuse, I will let everyone know how things go.
I started the car this morning and took off the air cleaner and watched the choke go from closed to fully open within a minute, so I tried to drive off and it stumbled.
The fast idle is not working, I called up the Chevy dealer and said that I will be dropping it off Sunday night, I will come up on Monday and watch my mechanic buddy fix it right there out in the cold and get this thing right, if not then they can refund my credit card.
I have it in my Dad's garage and I will check the fuse for the electric choke to rule that out, they did have to replace a fuse, I will let everyone know how things go.
Check the fuse, I'm guessing that won't be the problem. It could be the choke is opening up to fast, causing the bogging down. Some cars as they get older need more time to warm up, especially cars with carbs, and could be the nature of the beast here.
You might also want to try blocking off a small section of the raditaor to heat the engine up a little faster. Be sure the thermostat is working properly, and is the right temp for that engine.
Too bad you can't rig a hand choke and see if the situation improves with you opening the choke by hand.
Just some food for thought,
Frank D
You might also want to try blocking off a small section of the raditaor to heat the engine up a little faster. Be sure the thermostat is working properly, and is the right temp for that engine.
Too bad you can't rig a hand choke and see if the situation improves with you opening the choke by hand.
Just some food for thought,
Frank D
I asked this mechanic about a manual choke, and he said that he had problems with them and it is a fine art to use them.
The fast idle should be kicking in and it is not. The mechanic told me he had problems with it outside, then they bring it inside the shop that is heated.
He did turn down the idle, I will be playing with the idle on Saturday, maybe with this carburetor the choke does not work right unless the idle is at a certain rpm.
This thing is going to be fixed outside in the cold because that is where the car is usually started, outside in the weather.
The fast idle should be kicking in and it is not. The mechanic told me he had problems with it outside, then they bring it inside the shop that is heated.
He did turn down the idle, I will be playing with the idle on Saturday, maybe with this carburetor the choke does not work right unless the idle is at a certain rpm.
This thing is going to be fixed outside in the cold because that is where the car is usually started, outside in the weather.
c3po,
Based on what I'm reading it sounds like the fuse for the electric choke is working or else the choke wouldn't open up at all. I do agree that it sounds like the choke is opening up too fast. As for the fast idle, when the choke is closed you'll need to adjust the fast idle screw that should butt up against the cam notches. I'm guessing a SBC should be set around 1500rpm.
Is it possible the idle mixture is a bit out of whack?
Ed B.
Based on what I'm reading it sounds like the fuse for the electric choke is working or else the choke wouldn't open up at all. I do agree that it sounds like the choke is opening up too fast. As for the fast idle, when the choke is closed you'll need to adjust the fast idle screw that should butt up against the cam notches. I'm guessing a SBC should be set around 1500rpm.
Is it possible the idle mixture is a bit out of whack?
Ed B.
I used hand chokes for years and there was no art to working them, in fact they saved me a lot of the grief you're going through.
Getting back to your issue: There is a fast idle associated with your choke, and if that isn't working properly it could be part of your problem.
I have also seen thermostats that are slow to open cause problems. Some chokes have a pre-heater to get them to open faster, however if the engine itself is not warming up fast enough (thermostat issues) could cause you to bog down as well. Those chokes were great when they were working but could be a real PIA too!
Getting back to your issue: There is a fast idle associated with your choke, and if that isn't working properly it could be part of your problem.
I have also seen thermostats that are slow to open cause problems. Some chokes have a pre-heater to get them to open faster, however if the engine itself is not warming up fast enough (thermostat issues) could cause you to bog down as well. Those chokes were great when they were working but could be a real PIA too!
Originally Posted By: SuperEd73
c3po,
Based on what I'm reading it sounds like the fuse for the electric choke is working or else the choke wouldn't open up at all. I do agree that it sounds like the choke is opening up too fast. As for the fast idle, when the choke is closed you'll need to adjust the fast idle screw that should butt up against the cam notches. I'm guessing a SBC should be set around 1500rpm.
Is it possible the idle mixture is a bit out of whack?
Ed B.
The idle mixture is o.k. in my opinion, because when the car is warmed up she runs fantastic.
Is the fast idle screw on a quadrajet the 1 near the choke on an angle where you put the phillips head screwdriver onto it, or is the fast idle screw the 1 on the bottom of the carburetor near the front down low.
I think I was playing with the wrong screw when I popped the air cleaner off. Does anyone have a picture.
I am thinking the fast idle screw is down low near the mixture screws.
c3po,
Based on what I'm reading it sounds like the fuse for the electric choke is working or else the choke wouldn't open up at all. I do agree that it sounds like the choke is opening up too fast. As for the fast idle, when the choke is closed you'll need to adjust the fast idle screw that should butt up against the cam notches. I'm guessing a SBC should be set around 1500rpm.
Is it possible the idle mixture is a bit out of whack?
Ed B.
The idle mixture is o.k. in my opinion, because when the car is warmed up she runs fantastic.
Is the fast idle screw on a quadrajet the 1 near the choke on an angle where you put the phillips head screwdriver onto it, or is the fast idle screw the 1 on the bottom of the carburetor near the front down low.
I think I was playing with the wrong screw when I popped the air cleaner off. Does anyone have a picture.
I am thinking the fast idle screw is down low near the mixture screws.
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