Ecore Experience

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We've had a recent experience with the new Ecore design oil filter that we thought was worth sharing and that may be of interest to others. We purchased a fresh stock of oil filters this spring for our cars and trucks at a local AZ. We change our own oil, and we like to keep all of our GM cars and trucks all GM, just like the little sticker on the air cleaner housing on the old cars used to remind us to do, so we typically use only AC Delco products. We've been doing it for 29 years now and have been fortunate enough to not have had one problem in all those years. We've been using a PF1218 on all our big block Chevy motors with good results for probably the last 6-7 years. This spring we noticed the filters were slightly shorter in length, but the part number remained the same. It was the same part number we've known and trusted for years. So we did a oil change on the car this spring with the new filter. We had driven it for a good portion of the day, some of it at WOT for a few seconds, when suddenly the idle dropped to about 500 rpm, and then the motor shut down. We tried to restart it, but now it had a rapping sound coming from the #7 cylinder. We pulled the valve covers off, but everything was fine there. We trailered the car home and took the oil pan off. Things were looking OK until we got to the #7 & #8 rod bearing caps. Both caps were blackened. We pulled the motor from the car and disassembled it. The rod bearings were roasted. The main bearings were junk too. Bearing material was all over in the bottom of the oil pan. It looked like a classic oil starvation event. We then inspected the filter. It looked a little strange. The filter media was coming out of the oil exit hole. We turned it upside down to drain it, and found that the new Ecore had collapsed inside, allowing the filter media to come loose and plug the oulet. The motor had good oil pressure, 50-60lbs, all day long until it quit running. Total tally on the parts were 2 wrecked rods, a crankshaft with a crack in the center of the #7 rod journal, a complete set of main and rod bearings and a gasket set. The motor was barely 3 years old with less than average mileage. The motor had a PF1218 on it when we purchased it and it's all we've ever used on it. Valvoline 20W-50 was the only oil it's ever seen. We took the filter to a GM garage to see if they have had any similar experience. The first comment made by the parts manager was that the filter could be a counterfeit. He mentioned that there were some problems out there with fake parts. We got on the AC Delco website to check things out. There was a phone number to call. We were able to talk to a very nice lady who helped us to verify that it was in fact a genuine OE part. She told us it was manufactured by Champ Labs. We then went to the Champ Labs website and found their Technical Hotline. We again found a very helpful person who sent us a product retreival kit. We've gotten the oil filter sent back to Champ Labs, but have not heard back from them yet. They mentioned it takes up to 15 days. We're really curious about what happened because we're a little concerned about using another Ecore filter until we understand what happened to this one. This was our first experience with an Ecore design. Fortunately, we've had folks willing to help us get this far. We've read the information on the new Ecore design, and from an engineering perspective, we'd agree that the new design should produce a more efficient filter. All the logic behind the changes seemed to make sense. The brochure for the Ecore says the collapse strength is higher because the nylon Ecore is stonger, has a greater flow capacity from more open area and less filter media contamination than a steel core.

We'll update our post once we hear back from Champ Labs about the reason for the failure. We're hoping it was a rare manufacturing flaw. In the means time, we've got a big block Chevy to rebuild.
 
Champions policy is to send a service report back. In that service report it should state the customer has X number of days to request the filter back. So if that's what the customer wants all they have to do is notify Champ and they will get their filter back.

At that time, any company/individual can send the filter to another independent lab for analysis there. And that costs money because the independent lab doesn't do things for free.

My question would be--did you take an oil sample? Or is it to late to get one?

I remember a similar scenario where a shop rag was somehow the culprit for collapsing a filter. Needless to say, Champ or other filter companies don't supply filters with shop rags inside.

The largest claim, when I handled warranties for the Luberfiner brand, that I remember Champ having to pay was about $15,000. For a diesel fuel spill from a fuel water seperator that had a problem with a mis-manufactured drain valve and the driver merrily drove along not pay attention to the fuel gauge until another trucker told him he was leaking fuel.
 
quote:

Originally posted by T-Keith:
Did you check the in-block bypass valve, or has it been blocked?

-T


This was my thought too. Many hyped up Chebbie has the bypass defeated as a matter of common practice. This could have collapsed the media.

It may not have been wise for Champ to eliminate the bypass in GM spec'd applications.

Well, good luck with your efforts with Champ.
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We'd like to say thanks for the warm welcome and the well wishes. We found the BITOG website while searching for more information on Champ Labs and Ecore oil filters. This appears to be the right place to find real knowledgeable folks and good information. We appreciate everyone's comments. Thanks again.

We'll try and answer some of the questions.

We were directed to Champ Labs by the folks at AC who identified them as the MFG. Champ has been very helpful up to this point. They've even returned our phone calls when we've had questions about the return process and the retrieval kit.

The GM dealer took some digital photos of the failed filter and we sent the kit back with "return receipt" requested. Champ received the filter on May 30th.

We didn't find any black pieces of the polymer core in the motor. Just a bunch of bearing material. From what we could see looking in the oil exit hole, the Ecore was sort of wound up in the shape of a "G", if that helps.

We did keep a small oil sample. It was pretty clean as it was a fresh oil change about a week old.

The in-block bypass valve appears to be OK. As mentioned earlier, the motor came with a PF1218 installed and that's all we've ever used on it. Our 99 3/4 ton Suburban with a big block uses a PF1218 also, and we've not had a problem with it, but then we haven't put an Ecore design filter on it yet. We won't untill we know what happened with this one.

We've gone ahead and ordered new parts to repair the motor. A new crankshaft and a couple of rods, bearings and gaskets. We'll have it back on the road again soon.

We expect that Champ will do a thorough analysis of the filter and inform us us of their findings. From the information we've been able to find, the helpful interaction we've had so far and the positive comments of many others, they appear to be a large company producing a variety of quality components. We figure that didn't happen by manufacturing inferior products. We'll give them a chance to do their job and we'll let you all know how we fare.
 
That is a great post from a person who is actually doing what they are supposed to do.
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Can't wait to hear what Champ says.

This thread also has the obligatory post from FG who can't believe a filter ever fails. Shop rags?!? Jeez.
 
I honestly can't believe that the center tube cage actually failed in this case unless that itself had a manufacturing defect or damage. In the e-core that I cut open, that thing was strong! Way stronger than a typical metal center tube.

Not sure exactly what you mean when you say it was "in the shape of a G", bowtie. I assume that means broken or folded up somehow.
 
We have another PF1218 on the shelf that we bought at the same time to compare with. I would agree, it's hard to believe that it could collapse or shift to one side far enough to allow the filter media to escape the housing. After draining it out and trying to look inside through the exit hole with the filter media sticking out of it, the Ecore did not appear to be round anymore, but folded. That was about as much as we could see using a small flashlight at different angles. The entire filter media was also loose inside the housing as we were able to shake it and feel it moving around inside.

We're pretty interested in the response from Champ Labs as to the results of their analysis.
 
The filter media extending from the filter housing appeared to be intact, so we don't think any of it got past the filter outlet. It is quite stiff to the touch, and tugging on it wouldn't pull any more out. It apparently was subjected to some hydraulic pressure to force it out as far as it did, about 50-60psi worth.

I have a digital picture of the filter that I would like to share with folks, but I'm a rookie at this and I'm not quite sure how to add it to a post. I've got it editted down to 43.5kb so it's not too large and hopefully won't goof anything or anyone up.

We've washed, flushed and honed the block and all the internal parts already and haven't found anything but bearing material. That stuff was all over the place. We had to pick pieces of it out of the piston skirts and ring lands. Just a comment, but hard to believe a $5 oil filter can cause such a mess in such a short time. The worst thing that was damaged was the crankshaft. A small portion of the bearing wore through to allow the rod to ride directly on the #7 journal and created enough heat to crack the journal. That's gonna leave a mark....in our checking account.

Thanks again for all the helpful comments.
 
Most ISP provide web space for hosting pictures and things now a days, search around your ISP's website.

Very strange this and it makes me feel slightly nervous as I've got ecores on two cars right now. I always liked the ecores, thought they neat and futuristic. Wonder if it was just a 1 in a million manufacturing flook.
 
Winston..sorry but if you can't handle the truth, not my problem. But yes indeed there was a filter returned with bits of shop rag in a collapsed filter. Never said it was an everyday occurance.
 
Red Bowtie

You might be interested in these:

Technical service bulletin on collapsed center tubes:
http://www.filtercouncil.org/techdata/tsbs/96-2R1.pdf

Champ brochure on the E-core:
http://www.champlabs.com/ECOREBROCHURE.pdf

btw..the reason the filter is shorter is that the square inches of media is the same or greater in the E-core versus the metal end cap filters. You have to "sink" the media into the endcaps in order for the glue to create a positive seal so you lose some effective filtering area. That is why the E-core is not as "tall" as the older design. Delete the height of the metal endcaps and basically there you go.
 
I have been a proponent of the Ecore design, but your experience has pointed out the one design element in the Ecore that always bothered me in the back of my mind, namely, the center cage. On a traditional filter that has a metal center tube, the holes in the tube are small enough that if there is a catasrophic failure of the media itself, there is very little chance any big chunks of media can get pushed into the tube and possibly into the oil inlet pipe itself. However, the Ecore's nylon cage has very large areas that leave the media completely unsupported and if there is a media failure chunks can (and in your case obviously did) move all the way to the inlet pipe.

I've already looked up the Pureone part numbers for my two vehicles. I think the SuperTech Ecores that are on there now will be the last ones I'll use.
 
What weight oil does the owner's manual recommend, and why were you using 20W-50? Doesn't GM mostly recommend 5W-30? Is it possible the excessively heavy oil overwhelmed both the pump and block bypasses?
 
quote:

Originally posted by labman:
What weight oil does the owner's manual recommend, and why were you using 20W-50? Doesn't GM mostly recommend 5W-30? Is it possible the excessively heavy oil overwhelmed both the pump and block bypasses?

That is what I was beginning to wonder about also.
 
quote:

What weight oil does the owner's manual recommend, and why were you using 20W-50

He is new to Bitog. Once he gets around to reading the motor oil sections AEHASS will have him running M0W20 in no time.
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FG, I know I hassle you sometimes, it'is just that you defend every filter failure. This guy has done everything right and you still insinuated that it was operator error. If this guy doesn't verify every service performed on the engine, you will claim operator error. As it is now, we have no idea why the filter failed, whether it was Operator error or mfg defect.

It very well could be a defect in the plastic cage. If quality control slipped up on the plastic injection mold machine and they did not get quite enough plastic in, you would have a leg of that plastic cage just waiting to fail once it saw the pressure in the engine. I admit, I have no idea what failed on the filter, and I am pretty confident that Champion will tell the truth, but if I were to bet i would put my money on a defect in the inner cage plastic.
 
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