Dont know how to choose correct HPL oil

[Bill7]

With pretty much any off the shelf oil there will at least some carbon buildup inside the engine, no matter how often you change the oil. I don't know of any other oil that has the solvency of HPL. You can't go wrong with HPL, that's for sure.

By the way, go to Walmart and pick up the new FRAM FE2 oil filter and put it on the HEMI. It's an awesome filter that looks like it's actually manufactured by Champion Labs for FRAM. It's the same filter as Royal Purple 20-820 and AMSOIL EAO-11, but it's painted differently.

As for the best HPL picks for 5W-20:

Keep in mind that they all have the same cleaning ability, regardless of price:

1. HPL PCMO 5W-20 - Group III + AN + Ester - API SP/Dexos additive package
2. HPL NO-VII PCMO 5W-20 - PAO + AN + Ester - API SP/Dexos additive package (No VII polymers)
3. HPL NO-VII Euro 5W-20 - PAO + AN + Ester - Euro VW502/Porsche A40 additive package (No VII polymers) - this one is the ultimate motor oil IMHO.

The above would be my top pics. Hopefully @High Performance Lubricants has a few minutes available to chime in. I know they are pretty busy with orders, new contracts, and generally expanding and growing their business like never before.

Thanks Rod Knock for the handy summary above.
I didn't see any "High Mileage" oils available from HPL that treat engine seals to help prevent internal and external oil leaks.
If HPL starts making a premium high mileage 5W-30 oil, with PAO + AN + Ester + Seal conditioners, I would buy it and stock up on it.

 

[Deleted member 89374]

Thanks Rod Knock for the handy summary above.
I didn't see any "High Mileage" oils available from HPL that treat engine seals to help prevent internal and external oil leaks.
If HPL starts making a premium high mileage 5W-30 oil, with PAO + AN + Ester + Seal conditioners, I would buy it and stock up on it.

All of their engine oils condition seals within API limits. High Mileage oils also perform some cleaning, not nearly as good as HPL though.

Above and beyond that, they have unsurpassed solvency, which means that they also clean dirty engines.

HPL motor oils surpass High Mileage formulations by a good margin. You can use them with confidence.

 

[Bill7]

All of their engine oils condition seals within API limits. Above and beyond that, they have unsurpassed solvency, which means that they also clean dirty engines. HPL motor oils surpass High Mileage formulations by a good margin. You can use them with confidence.

What ingredient in HPL oils is doing all the extraordinary cleaning where BITOG users are posting oil filters cut open with larges amounts of the dark brown soft stuff presumably from piston rings, and from any varnish / sludge anywhere from the engines?
I'm going to order the HPL engine cleaner for each of my 4 vehicles and run it for 2k miles.
Then I may switch to HPL oils, so they can keep cleaning all my engines out, at least for a few OCI's in each vehicle.

 

[JRHAWK9]

I too am leaning towards HPL's way once I use the couple jugs of oil I have on hand. Although the skeptic in me always is playing devil's advocate. I've been on online forums now for 25 years, and I've seen services/products being touted on them over and over. It's hard to figure out what's truly legit and what is just "internet forum marketing" taken over.

 

[buster]

I too am leaning towards HPL's way once I use the couple jugs of oil I have on hand. Although the skeptic in me always is playing devil's advocate. I've been on online forums now for 25 years, and I've seen services/products being touted on them over and over. It's hard to figure out what's truly legit and what it just "internet forum marketing" taken over.

I hear you on that.

HPL is legit.

 

[buster]

What ingredient in HPL oils is doing all the extraordinary cleaning where BITOG users are posting oil filters cut open with larges amounts of the dark brown soft stuff presumably from piston rings, and from any varnish / sludge anywhere from the engines?
I'm going to order the HPL engine cleaner for each of my 4 vehicles and run it for 2k miles.
Then I may switch to HPL oils, so they can keep cleaning all my engines out, at least for a few OCI's in each vehicle.

Just my guess but the unique select esters they use.

 

[Bill7]

Just my guess but the unique select esters they use.

Others may be interested in HPL oil for extended OCIs.

My interest in HPL oils is for their cleaning abilities. It appears like it can safely clean out an engines oil passageways and piston rings,
and remove all the varnish and sludge from an engines internal parts.

 

[buster]

I'm mainly interested in HPL oils for their cleaning abilities. I'm not into extended OCI's, and if you use an HPL oil you are likely to still have the same engine wear as if you used any good low priced Full Synthetic. But the chance to safely clean out the internals of your entire engine to make it look like it just came off the assembly line with shiny bright silver metal is a real advantage to HPL oils. All of your oil passages that might be parcially clogged and gummed up could be safely cleaned out it seems with HPL oils which could increase the oil pressure and increase the longevity of your engine.

I really don't know to what extent HPL oils clean, but it appears quite exceptional. I'm going off anecdotal posts from BITOG showing that carbon is in filters, even after using synthetic. I was skeptical, and still am to a certain extent, but I believe what people are seeing is likely from the rings. It's hard to argue with the results we're seeing. Keeping the rings clean is arguably the most important thing of all.

Amsoil and certain grades of Mobil 1 will also do this, but not as convincingly as HPL. In hindsight I don't think M1 EP oils were that great at cleaning, but it's relative. JAG also did a test showing similar results. I think you have to hit the grades with the more group V to see that level of cleaning/cleanliness (ESP line).

 

[Bill7]

I really don't know to what extent HPL oils clean, but it appears quite exceptional. I'm going off anecdotal posts from BITOG showing that carbon is in filters, even after using synthetic. I was skeptical, and still am to a certain extent, but I believe what people are seeing is likely from the rings. It's hard to argue with the results we're seeing. Keeping the rings clean is arguably the most important thing of all.

Amsoil and certain grades of Mobil 1 will also do this, but not as convincingly as HPL. In hindsight I don't think M1 EP oils were that great at cleaning, but it's relative. JAG also did a test showing similar results. I think you have to hit the grades with the more group V to see that level of cleaning/cleanliness (ESP line).

I remember a post on BITOG saying the HPL gives you a lot more Ester than any other brand that is worried about a price point.
With HPL, they give you a lot more Ester. Is it Ester that is doing the dramatic cleaning, or some other chemical?
HPL is the best of all worlds, PAO Group IV base stock and Esther Group 5 as well in the same oil.
I need to do more research on AN.

Do PAO (Group IV) base oils with Ester (Group V) have any benefit in wear protection over a good full synthetic oil.

Also, an unrelated question on the HPL engine cleaner - Should you go easy and keep your driving very conservative with low RPMs
for the 2,000 miles that the HPL Engine Cleaner is in your engine, or is it ok to not worry about higher RPMs with the cleaner inside your engine?

 

[JustN89]

Also, an unrelated question on the HPL engine cleaner - Should you go easy and keep your driving very conservative with low RPMs
for the 2,000 miles that the HPL Engine Cleaner is in your engine, or is it ok to not worry about higher RPMs with the cleaner inside your engine?

The engine cleaner is a properly formulated oil, so I would not do anything different regarding driving habits just because you’re running the engine cleaner.

For what it’s worth, I’ve got a quart of the engine cleaner in my RDX right now and it sees plenty of hard driving. I’ll run it a full OCI, as well.

 

[Bill7]

The engine cleaner is a properly formulated oil, so I would not do anything different regarding driving habits just because you’re running the engine cleaner.

For what it’s worth, I’ve got a quart of the engine cleaner in my RDX right now and it sees plenty of hard driving. I’ll run it a full OCI, as well.

Thanks JustN89. Do you notice darker oil on the oil dipstick, which could provide some evidence the engine is getting cleaned.
Some have reported extreme cleaning with opened oil filters having a soft darker brown substance while other posts have mentioned little noticable cleaning.

 

[buster]

a lot more Ester than any other brand that is worried about a price point.
With HPL, they give you a lot more Ester. Is it Ester that is doing the dramatic cleaning, or some other chemical?

There are so many esters. I wouldn't say it's the quantity, but quality/type.

 

[4WD]

I remember a post on BITOG saying the HPL gives you a lot more Ester than any other brand that is worried about a price point.
With HPL, they give you a lot more Ester. Is it Ester that is doing the dramatic cleaning, or some other chemical?
HPL is the best of all worlds, PAO Group IV base stock and Esther Group 5 as well in the same oil.
I need to do more research on AN.

Do PAO (Group IV) base oils with Ester (Group V) have any benefit in wear protection over a good full synthetic oil.

Also, an unrelated question on the HPL engine cleaner - Should you go easy and keep your driving very conservative with low RPMs
for the 2,000 miles that the HPL Engine Cleaner is in your engine, or is it ok to not worry about higher RPMs with the cleaner inside your engine?

How much ?

 

[JustN89]

Thanks JustN89. Do you notice darker oil on the oil dipstick, which could provide some evidence the engine is getting cleaned.
Some have reported extreme cleaning with opened oil filters having a soft darker brown substance while other posts have mentioned little noticable cleaning.

Less than 500 miles into the OCI, so no darker oil than normal. Honestly, I don't expect the color on the dipstick to change much, nor do I expect it to be indicative of the cleaning or lack thereof done during the interval. I'm planning on cutting the filter open though. That should be telling.

 

[Malo83]

Sometimes I cringe at the things I read here. It's like when little kids talk about their favorite toys and voice their fantasies outload.

ain't that the truth, fantasizing over some oil.

 

[Bill7]

Less than 500 miles into the OCI, so no darker oil than normal. Honestly, I don't expect the color on the dipstick to change much, nor do I expect it to be indicative of the cleaning or lack thereof done during the interval. I'm planning on cutting the filter open though. That should be telling.

I hope you get some good cleaning. When I bought my 4 Odysseys as used cars, I didn't know about HPL oil, so I did 2 LIqui Moly engine flushes on each vehicle, and after that with a clean engine I started doing 4k OCI with a good full synthetic 5W-30.
So my engines should already be clean, but I really want to do some extra cleanings with HPL to remove the varnish and any other stains perhaps from the previous owner's dealership bulk oil changes with conventional oil.

 

[Nayov]

So my engines should already be clean, but I really want to do some extra cleanings with HPL to remove the varnish and any other stains perhaps from the previous owner's dealership bulk oil changes with conventional oil.

I don't think HPL claims to clean varnish. Maybe tidy up things a bit. But what would be helpful is an under valve cover pic before HPL use and one 5000 miles later.

 

[Deleted member 89374]

I don't think HPL claims to clean varnish. Maybe tidy up things a bit. But what would be helpful is an under valve cover pic before HPL use and one 5000 miles later.

 

[OVERKILL]

I don't think HPL claims to clean varnish. Maybe tidy up things a bit. But what would be helpful is an under valve cover pic before HPL use and one 5000 miles later.

Ahem...

Since the topic has come up a few times I am posting the PDS in the PCMO, Diesel, and Euro sections. This is a safe path to clean varnish and or sludge left behind by other oils. There are no solvents in this oil. It has enough ester to clean but still be safe with elastomers. Simply add a quart to the current oil and can be used for 1-2,000 miles preferably but can be run longer if needed. Changing a filter at 2,000 miles is recommended should you wish to clean further.

And:

In the cleaning oil we only use ester for cleaning. The thought here is we want a slow controlled clean. The viscosity is 5w20/30 border so it will not throw either a Xw20 or Xw30 out of grade.

Once clean if using our oils you will receive the benefit of both ester as well as alkylated naphthalene for a fair price. The engine oils will actually clean more and are are more thermally stable and formulated to be capable of extended drains should you choose to do so.

David

 

[Bill7]

HPL cleaner and oil is a great cleaner. After the cleaning, the cut open oil filters show the dark brown soft material that used to be varnish and sludge that used to be stuck to the engine. Hat's off to HPL for making such a great product. I will be using the cleaner in each of my vehicles for 2,000 miles, and then will do a few oil change intervals with HPL oil in each vehicle to finish the cleanup.

An important question though is:
If we all are using full synthetic oil, how are the engines getting so dirty with varnish and sludge in the first place?
Full synthetic oil is supposed to not break down due to high temperatures and it should resist causing deposits or sludge.
I would expect that if you buy a new car, and only use a full synthetic oil, say for a reasonable oil change interval like 5k miles, that the engine's internals should be clean (no sludge or varnish) after 100k miles. Is there some other factor involved that is causing the full synthetic oil to turn into sludge and varnish?