Dissapointing, Spectra Premium radiator failed in

Status
Not open for further replies.
Originally Posted By: DemoFly
My engine runs cooler and my trans runs cooler. Definitely worth the $200.


Neither one of which is necessarily desirable. Plus how does your engine run cooler? Did you change the thermostat too?
 
This is why I keep telling people to buy their radiators locally! I put in a Spectra Premium radiator into my Escort last December and so far, so good. The new radiator was made in Canada. Only disappointing thing is that I wish it came with new copper washers for the transmission line. Pep Boys has a lifetime warranty on it. I can easily return it if I have to.
 
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Originally Posted By: Trav
I am surprised that its a Canadian built one, the Chinese ones are iffy I know that but the others were pretty decent.
If its a bugger to change like requiring the nose and radiator support to be removed I use OE from the dealer, the price difference doesn't make up for the labor. On these they get a new A/C condenser and any maintenance close to being due that needs to have the nose pulled.


Cripes!! A condenser?!? I've had them last hundreds of thousands of miles. Is that a weak point on this vehicle?


No not on this one. Some German cars are a big job to swap the radiator, you need to pull the nose off, remove the radiator support and condenser.
Chances are if its been in a accident the condenser may be damaged or if its old the condenser might be in such a weakened state that moving it might finish it off.
Its not worth the labor to pull it all apart again and change it, they don't cost that much.
If you can get the radiator out without taking the front apart leave the condenser alone.
 
Originally Posted By: Colt45ws
Originally Posted By: DemoFly
Been there done that. Replaced mine in the Jeep failed at 30K mies. Replaced with an aluminum dual pass off ebay. It's great.

That actually working for you? Ive always been concerned about the thickness of the aluminium and how well the mounts are positioned as Im familiar with how that can be a problem.
I guess the best thing is, if it leaks, it can just be TIG'd to fix it.


I put an all-aluminum, TIG-welded fabricated radiator in my '66 Polara a few years ago from an Ebay store that offered radiators in "standard" fitments for lots of older Mopars. I put "standard" in quotes because the radiators are correct dimensionally, but come with unfinished flanges that allow you to cut and drill for the numerous different flange arrangements that were used in different body styles and model years. I've been thrilled with it from top to bottom, its a very well-made piece. The original radiator had finally gotten to the point where the top tank would flex and break the solder joint to the core- I'd removed and re-soldered the tank numerous times as well as let a radiator shop try it. I blame newer solders- they're just not as tough (flexible and strong) as older solders were, IMO.
 
Wow, your radiator failed already? I know the CTS-V has only been out around 10 years, and for a radiator to fail in 10 years is really, really bad. What year is your V btw?

Does Denso make a radiator for your application? Also, Rock Auto does sell GM OE parts, including the radiator.
 
Originally Posted By: zvm77us
Don't bother calling spectra, rockauto will warranty it our for you. There is a difference between warrantying a product out and a return by rockauto. The way it works is rockauto will charge your credit card for a new radiator and ship it and afterwards when they receive the damaged one back they'll refund the money to you, call them!!


That is exactly what happened. I called RockAuto first. I bought a different radiator from them as a replacement (APDI Pro Radiator - No complaints about that) They sent me a FedEx label via email. I have to eat the cost to return but I get their discount on shipping. Only $6.14 to ship the radiator back to them! They deduct the shipping from the refund that will hit my credit card after they receive the bad radiator. Bad radiator will be shipped back in the new radiator box.

Not bad at all, the install time is no big deal, the car is still driveable.
 
Originally Posted By: kschachn
Originally Posted By: DemoFly
My engine runs cooler and my trans runs cooler. Definitely worth the $200.


Neither one of which is necessarily desirable. Plus how does your engine run cooler? Did you change the thermostat too?

Luckily I was posting from my perspective in my ZJ, so both are quite desirable.

It runs cooler on the trail where CFM over the radiator is limited. ZJs have undersized radiators for the 5.2L V8 and the clutch fan isn't adequate. A stock ZJ will overheat under load if it's not moving.

The 42RE and 44RE A518 transmissions produce a lot of heat. The radiator lines serve as a heat-exchanger to warm up the trans, and then that heated transmission fluid is sent to an optional auxiliary transmission cooler before going back to the transmission. What ends up happening is the transmission fluid reaches 195F from the radiator and it just keeps climbing unless the torque converter is in lockup, which doesn't happen on the trail.
 
Thanks. Ill keep this in mind and might give one of the aluminium ones a shot if the radiator gives out. The coolant that was in it was in such bad shape Im sure the heater core and radiator are on borrowed time at this point.
Otherwise, there isn't much selection besinds Spectra on this car.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Gasbuggy
I could go aftermarket aluminum but I'm not interesting in hacking or lower coolant temps.



I know you may not want to spend the (substantial) coin on them (besides not needing/wanting the extra cooling capacity), but do any of the top tier, U.S. made, all aluminum radiator companies even make a totally 'drop-in' stock fit replacement for the Vs?? (i.e.; Griffin, Be Cool, Ron Davis, Fluidyne, DeWitts, C&R, etc.)
21.gif
 
Originally Posted By: dailydriver
Originally Posted By: Gasbuggy
I could go aftermarket aluminum but I'm not interesting in hacking or lower coolant temps.



I know you may not want to spend the (substantial) coin on them (besides not needing/wanting the extra cooling capacity), but do any of the top tier, U.S. made, all aluminum radiator companies even make a totally 'drop-in' stock fit replacement for the Vs?? (i.e.; Griffin, Be Cool, Ron Davis, Fluidyne, DeWitts, C&R, etc.)
21.gif



Alradco does, it's a $500 item, very well made and has some extra capacity. It's 12 pounds heavier. Ron Davis makes one too, $900. Probably others.
 
Update, the APDI/Pro Rad I was sent has already started leaking at the crimps. I just read on another forum that this company filed for bankruptcy recently. LOL No wonder RockAuto has a bunch of their radiators.

It was a very slow leak, I could smell a whiff of antifreeze after I installed it but there was no visible leak. I thought perhaps some old antifreeze was who knows where and still smelling. I blasted it down the highway coming home the other night and made the leak easier to find. It was a weeping at the seems along the top and running down the surround of my air intake.

Probably will just suck it up and get an OEM piece for almost 3x the money. Only problem I have with that is it was the OEM radiators don't have a good reputation either.

[color:#FF0000][/color]
 
Originally Posted By: Gasbuggy
Probably will just suck it up and get an OEM piece for almost 3x the money. Only problem I have with that is it was the OEM radiators don't have a good reputation either.


In that case, I would just 'suck it up' and go for one of the US built, all alloy, aftermarket ones, and BE DONE WITH IT!

Besides, THAT car 'deserves' one of those anyway, yes, even if it is $900.00!!
wink.gif
 
I've had hoses leak at the clamp and run down and pool around the top of the radiator if it's the kind that have the plastic tanks at the top and bottom. It looks like the radiator has failed, and can be very frustrating after having just replaced it.

Try tightening the clamp or replace it, before you re-do the radiator. Use a ratchet if it's a screw clamp, and crank it down good, you won't break it. Test or replace your coolant cap too.
 
Originally Posted By: JamesBond
I've had hoses leak at the clamp and run down and pool around the top of the radiator if it's the kind that have the plastic tanks at the top and bottom. It looks like the radiator has failed, and can be very frustrating after having just replaced it.

Try tightening the clamp or replace it, before you re-do the radiator. Use a ratchet if it's a screw clamp, and crank it down good, you won't break it. Test or replace your coolant cap too.


I rented a pressure tester and washed the car down today, tomorrow I'll pump it up and find the leak source just to be sure.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top