different oil for "break-in"?

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I had head gasket, valve work done on my engine (1994 car). Does it need a thicker break-in oil? Or is this for 1940s cars?
 
Nothing really to break in.The valve seat areas never see motor oil,if anything,add some lubricant to the gas.However,you want the valves to seat,that means no lubricant in the fuel system.
 
There's nothing to break in but there may be a little cleaning in order. With the head off you might have gotten a little oil in your coolant and a touch of coolant in your oil and a little bit of airborne contaminant in both. Hells, there could be some grinding compound and fresh paint in there as well.

If you want to be a little extra cautious I would suggest using the cheapest suitable oil available and don't change the filter, then do the oil change early -- maybe 1000 miles or so and replace the coolant at that time as well.

It shouldn't be necessary. If you were only interested in doing what's necessary, would you even be asking?
 
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You shouldn't need to perform much of a break in. I would just drive like normal and not beat on it for a 500 miles or so.

My general rule of thumb after doing any internal engine work, head, intake, etc is change the oil 500 miles after doing the work. If there's any coolant or anything left in there, it'll be out fairly quick.
 
break-in is for the rings and bearings.

but I agree, do a shorter oil change to get rid of the contamination.
 
I don't know what all was really done.
Valve guides could need break in. Same for rocker arms, pushrods, cam and followers, etc..

A short OCI with cheap oil is what I would do. I would want to flush out particulate matter that is inevitable from the work done to it.
 
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