Regardless of the circumstances, when in doubt: it's never a bad idea to get a dial indicator and check for rotor runout before you decide on your next move (to replace rotors, deglaze it, or whatever):
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=dial%20indicator
Once you determined that the runout is within or below specs, then proceed to deglaze and slap on new pad materials, etc.
No use deglazing an otherwise warped rotor to begin with (only machining can bring them true again).
Q.
Sometimes, a significant runout (out of true) hub can attribute to rotor out of true and the perceivable results will be similar to rotor warping, even with fresh new blanks. The only way to overcome that is either to replace the hub or shim it (as what Trav has suggested before).
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=dial%20indicator
Once you determined that the runout is within or below specs, then proceed to deglaze and slap on new pad materials, etc.
No use deglazing an otherwise warped rotor to begin with (only machining can bring them true again).
Q.
Sometimes, a significant runout (out of true) hub can attribute to rotor out of true and the perceivable results will be similar to rotor warping, even with fresh new blanks. The only way to overcome that is either to replace the hub or shim it (as what Trav has suggested before).