So in the spirit of DIY Guy's gun oil test, I'm doing a little mini at-home corrosion prevention test of a couple of garage lubes I had laying around. Unfortunately I did not have room for everything I wanted to test, but many of them HAVE been tested. My goal was to provide a little home comparison information for my own decisions. As such, THIS TEST WILL NOT STAND UP TO RIGOROUS SCRUTINY. Please feel free to enjoy any results but it is nothing more than a quick, diy, at home comparison.
To begin with I took a used front brake rotor (Ford OE part, possibly 80k miles but remarkably little wear), sanded it down by hand with some coarse wet/dry paper and cleaned it off real good with non-chlorinated brake cleaner. There are a few dents and divots which aren't perfect but overall it should do well for this test. I then divided it into eight parts to test the following (In clockwise fashion from the top):
1. PP 5w30
2. Chevron Supreme 10w30
3. Kano Microil
4. Tri-Flow Superior Lubricant, drip bottle
5. Boeshield T9, drip
6. Fluid Film, non-aersol
7. Fluid Film, aerosol
8. Mobil 1 ATF
Added:
9. Super-Lube Silicone Oil, small area on rotor hat
10. Control, the rest of the rotor hat (which was sanded and prepped along with the braking surface)
All samples were applied in the same fashion, by wetting a piece of blue shop towel and "buffing" onto the rotor surface. No further treat was done (no wipe off, no heat treat, ect). I would say that the "buffing" on didn't seem to leave a very heavy coating but felt analogous to how I would wipe down any gun part which didn't specify a "run wet" type of condition (i.e. my glock rails have more oil but my shotgun receiver has about this amount).
At this point in the test, the samples are sitting in a non-climate controlled garage in 90+F daily high temps and high humidity. I have seen tools rust in a few weeks if not wiped down. Unsure the "best" way to progress from here. A good long term test would be to just leave the rotor unmolested for a few months and see what holds up best. This would be a great test for storage applications. Alternatively, I could move it outside into any type of spot ranging from primarily sunny (weather permitting) to shady and damp. It is currently early fall in Michigan, so the weather will be (or should be) rapidly cooling and becoming wetter. Open to input. Pics below.
To begin with I took a used front brake rotor (Ford OE part, possibly 80k miles but remarkably little wear), sanded it down by hand with some coarse wet/dry paper and cleaned it off real good with non-chlorinated brake cleaner. There are a few dents and divots which aren't perfect but overall it should do well for this test. I then divided it into eight parts to test the following (In clockwise fashion from the top):
1. PP 5w30
2. Chevron Supreme 10w30
3. Kano Microil
4. Tri-Flow Superior Lubricant, drip bottle
5. Boeshield T9, drip
6. Fluid Film, non-aersol
7. Fluid Film, aerosol
8. Mobil 1 ATF
Added:
9. Super-Lube Silicone Oil, small area on rotor hat
10. Control, the rest of the rotor hat (which was sanded and prepped along with the braking surface)
All samples were applied in the same fashion, by wetting a piece of blue shop towel and "buffing" onto the rotor surface. No further treat was done (no wipe off, no heat treat, ect). I would say that the "buffing" on didn't seem to leave a very heavy coating but felt analogous to how I would wipe down any gun part which didn't specify a "run wet" type of condition (i.e. my glock rails have more oil but my shotgun receiver has about this amount).
At this point in the test, the samples are sitting in a non-climate controlled garage in 90+F daily high temps and high humidity. I have seen tools rust in a few weeks if not wiped down. Unsure the "best" way to progress from here. A good long term test would be to just leave the rotor unmolested for a few months and see what holds up best. This would be a great test for storage applications. Alternatively, I could move it outside into any type of spot ranging from primarily sunny (weather permitting) to shady and damp. It is currently early fall in Michigan, so the weather will be (or should be) rapidly cooling and becoming wetter. Open to input. Pics below.