cold engien oil change. Effective?

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I know there was a thread about this but i cant find it.
Anyway my car has been sitting in storage for 4 months next week. I drove the car maybe 3-4 times this winter on nice days and let it idle about 3 times. Im in this weird situation where i want to change the oil without starting the engine.
All the fogging oil i put into the cylinders went down to the oil pan. and mixed with the oil.
My oil feels liek water with very little lubrication. It still drives fine but when i took it around 4k rpms it was rough. : (
I want to change the oil out IMMEDIATELY!
I was planing on just using a hair dryer and heating up the oil pan and changing the oil like that.


Will this be effective or does the engien need to be warmed up in order to change the oil.

Im planing on doing a short run of 3k miles this oil change just to flush everything out.
 
justchange it cold for your peace fo mind. Perhaps use something realy cheap, then drve until hot, then replace back to your oil of choice.

If you want to be really anal...

JMH
 
No harm in changing oil on a cold engine other than the oil will flow out slower. IMO, I wouldn't bother fogging it if you plan to drive it 3-4x over a ~4mo storage period. Maybe some Stabil in the tank, that's about it.

Joel
 
"All the fogging oil i put into the cylinders went down to the oil pan. and mixed with the oil."

If that's truly the case, your rings are in such bad shape nothing short of a new motor will make any difference! (Where do you guys come up with this garbage!!!!!)

Bob
 
Its a brand new CAr!! with only 4000k miles on the clock.
Its my first time storing and that is why i didn't know what to do so i just put in fogging oil i could have just put in regular oil and that wouldn't make a difference if it seeped passed the rings.
 
when i was driving ion the highway i got it up to 4k rpm's one time and i felt as f there was some metal to metal contact. I don't really know what it was but im sure it had to do somethign with the engine. Im so worried now that i took away some life from my poor new engine. Cant say much though yet. Under the 4k rpm car ran fine.
 
Well, you've already ran the engine to 4k rpm with the "watery" oil, so it couldn't get much worse from letting it idle for 5 minutes to warm up the oil.


btw, how much fogging oil did you use to dilute 4 quarts of oil to viscosity of water?
 
i used about 1/2 of a centimeter to a centimeter of fogging oil in each cylinder.
My plan was to pump it out but when the time came it was gone.
 
Afterwards i just pured some Oil into a plastic baggie.
i sprayed some fogging oil into it. The oil was pretty much the same until i started putting in more fogging oil then it became watery with no viscosity. But i dont know what the correct ratio would have been for 4 quarts of oil. i know some might have evaporated because the exhaust tip is a little bit oily to the touch.
 
The oil you put in the cylinders is causing the problem.
It will burn off pretty much if you keep driving it.
Your plugs got fouled, and maybe other problems from that oil.
 
Most of fogging oil is propellant that evaporates away leaving a heavy coating thats alomst grease viscosity. NONE of it is in your motor oil. Coating will act just as mechtech2 states.

Start it, warm it, then change oil and forget elaborate storage procedures unless it's going to be stored for more than a year.

Maybe look up mechtech for professional services till you learn more about self services.

Bob
 
Agreed..you're going way overboard for the short time it's in storage.

I bought a 92 S-10 that had been in storage for >3 years. I didn't see a point in starting it and getting all the gunk in the oil stirred back up, as by that time it had probably settled to the bottom of the pan. I just dumped it and it worked fine. It didn't gush out like it would had it been hot, but it all came out.
 
You don't mention what vehicle but, if it has a Mass air flow system then fogging is a no no. Fogging can mess up the sensor. You also state you let the car idle for several minutes, then stop it. If you are going to start it then drive it 10 miles or more or don't start it. Cold starts that are short don't get the oil up to a temp to get the water from the cold start removed. Sounds to me like your doing alot of wrongs things to your car. As said in the previous thread- maybe mechtech will chim in.
 
I don't remember the web sites, but in general most motorcycle forums and Harley-Davidson forums have some good tips for storing motorcycles (but it all applies to cars as well) over the winter.
In general the most common practice is to change the oil just before putting the car in storage (so that the oil has as few miles as possible on it) and let the car sit without startin AT ALL.
The oil is new so no contaminants will settle at the bottom and therefore no need to start the engine during the storage period.
Use the cheapest oil you can find as it will be drained to remove any water from it. Then put your favorite oil and you're ready to go. No fuss.
 
Ok. Its a 07 civic. I didn't not Put the fogging oil in the intake. just undid the plugs and sprayed it in there.
I started teh car 3 times and and let it warm up for a good 15 minutes and then did a 12 mile drive on the highway. I also started it around 3 times where i would just let it idle for about 30 minutes without driving.

I didn't foul the spark plugs because i there was no fogging oil in the cylinders when i started the car. Car runs as it should.

The oil isnt as thick as it was. Cold or warm.
Its watery like.
SO im concluding at the 4k rmp the watery oil couldn't lube the bearings or whatever and there was some metal to metal contact.

ps.Stabil was used in the fual also.

I stored my vehicle from Nov 10 07 and it it still stored.
will most likely be getting out of storage in 2 weeks.

I just drove it or let it idle when it was very nice outside.

>40 degrees.

Also before starting it , as i know most wear starts when the car is started, i used a hair dryer and heated the oil pan for about 15 minutes prior to starting it. ( i dont know if this had any effect)


My plan is to Change out the oil sometime in the next 2 weeks with M! 5-20 as i already got it. and a Wix filter. make a 3k OCI with it and then do the same thing but switch the oil at 4k miles. I will be doing 4k OCI until the car has >10k so i can sent out a UOA, and see how the engine is doing.
ps this would be my first UOA.



My reason for 4OCI is becaue the car idles to warm up a good 3-4 minutes all the time and is mostly driven in city so i think 4k is a reasonable place to start.

PLEASE: no haters. dont tell me to go with dino, Because i wont.
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Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Bulli
I stored my vehicle from Nov 10 07 and it it still stored.
will most likely be getting out of storage in 2 weeks.

I just drove it or let it idle when it was very nice outside.

So was it stored or driven? Idling is the worst thing for any car. You sound like you're giving yourself an ulcer over nothing. "Storing" is parking it for over a year.
 
My good friend told me an engine works better when started up a daw times during the soring process. Before that i was sold on storing it the whole 4 months without even starting it.

Doesn't matter now winter is almost over.
Im just worried about the car
 
it is none of my business,
and well within bounds for u to tell me 2 go fly a kite,

but man, u got some really weird ideas about oil in your head.

that extra change at 3k w/ mobil1, and then 4k.??
that oil is fine.
you are taking out and putting back the same thing.
throw in an extra filter change if you must, but you are wasting time and money.

enjoy your car.
have a nice day
 
no i don't mean ill change it out at 3k miles then 4k miles.
ill do a 3k OCI run and then afterwards do a 4k OCI run.
 
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