Click/Clunk --- 2008 Tundra problem...

BAJA_05

BAJA_05

Joined
Mar 22, 2012
Messages
2,911
Location
Berks County/Pa.
On 2/9/2024 my garage fixed a brake line that was leaking. They are probably less than a mile from my house. Came right home and turkey basted the power steering fluid out and replaced with Valvoline Maxlife ATF. Took it for a ride and making a right hard turn from the stop sign I hear this clicking/ clunk noise that seems to be coming from right front. Not only that --- it totally loses all power to speed up for what seems a good 2 or 3 seconds? Pulled right over and climbed underneath and see nothing out of the ordinary. Only does it when pulling out right sharply??? Any and all help appreciated please.

Ps. Power steering is full.
 
It's in 2WD right? Driveline binding during turns is normal on a part time 4WD on any sort of hard non-slippery surface.

I do wonder if you have more than one problem. Clunking could be any suspension part. Loss of power on a corner could be bad motor mount (which be related to the clunk) and creating a shift that pulls on a wire breaking some connection. Or allowing oil that captured in the intake manifold (or any place where vacuum is present) to suddenly be sucked in.

I might take a longer drive, say 5 minutes or more, to rule out a dragging break. Usually once up to speed, you can come to a stop and smell for a hot brake.
 
It's in 2WD and it's consistent when I make a hard right turn with the click/clunk and loss of power. All normal when turning hard left. No brake smell but the beast has ABS.
 
supton said:
It's in 2WD right? Driveline binding during turns is normal on a part time 4WD on any sort of hard non-slippery surface.

I do wonder if you have more than one problem. Clunking could be any suspension part. Loss of power on a corner could be bad motor mount (which be related to the clunk) and creating a shift that pulls on a wire breaking some connection. Or allowing oil that captured in the intake manifold (or any place where vacuum is present) to suddenly be sucked in.

I might take a longer drive, say 5 minutes or more, to rule out a dragging break. Usually once up to speed, you can come to a stop and smell for a hot brake.
Click to expand...
Thing is, didn't make the click/clunk and loss of power until the brake line in the rear was fixed???
 
I have put cars on the lift and ball joints came apart.

With the power loss, wheel speed sensor sounds like something to check along with lugnuts, front anti-sway bar links, then check for no brake drag and that the WS sensor is in place on the rear wheel that was serviced.

Is there any MIL lit on the dash? Plug into the ALDL and OBDII scan

I wasn't aware of the need to turkey baste the power steering reservoir immediately after brake service !
 
No MIL lit, checked for codes and none present or stored. ABS light doesn't come on at all when situation presents itself.
 
ABS may need cycling. They should have purged it. Can you try to lock the brakes and actuate the ABS on a wet, snowy or dirt road?

I would perform a thorough chassis safety check first.
 
Last edited:
Im not clear why a 2008 truck with only 153k would have a brake line leak/failure, but I’d probably start with that. Coukd something be binding up? Causing a fake sensation of a traction anomaly? All those things coukd well cause issues while all computing thinks all is well.. check the work you just had done.
 
My thought with the description of a clicking noise while turning and power loss also has me thinking ABS/TC/yaw

If you can verify this is true, then start looking at WSS harnii, pull sensors and look for shavings or gunk etc

You might also try to pull ABS codes. Does ABS set pending codes like the primary OBD system? I honestly don't know.....?
 
JHZR2 said:
Im not clear why a 2008 truck with only 153k would have a brake line leak/failure, but I’d probably start with that. Coukd something be binding up? Causing a fake sensation of a traction anomaly? All those things coukd well cause issues while all computing thinks all is well.. check the work you just had done.
Click to expand...
In the Northeast, it's not uncommon to see steel brake lines rusted through on 8-10 year old vehicles.
 
cronk said:
In the Northeast, it's not uncommon to see steel brake lines rusted through on 8-10 year old vehicles.
Click to expand...
I live in the northeast. Have my whole life. Can’t say I’ve around that to be common on any but the worst jalopsies.
 
If your're able, look at wheel speed sensor data when this is occurring. Maybe one is dropping out or gone completely. Failing that, just pull the RF tire off and inspect things. Traction control shouldn't make any clicking noises when it activates, but there could conceivably be a mechanical issue that is somehow causing an intermittent problem, resulting in TC actuation.
 
JHZR2 said:
Im not clear why a 2008 truck with only 153k would have a brake line leak/failure, but I’d probably start with that. Coukd something be binding up? Causing a fake sensation of a traction anomaly? All those things coukd well cause issues while all computing thinks all is well.. check the work you just had d
Click to expand...
Update, took the truck to the garage that worked on it right after work. He hooked up his fancy Snap On reader --- wheel sensors all read normal for speed we were driving. Had no new codes or codes stored that he could find. Could only get it to click/clunk and loss of power turning to the right one time. He looked underneath and noticed nothing hanging up or out of the ordinary. Both scratching our heads till I left.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

C
Tie Rods, Swaybar Links, Rack, or Strut Mount?
Replies
18
Views
950
c3uo
D
Occasional clunk on hard braking/acceleration (2012 Mazda5 6MT)
Replies
19
Views
995
Armkb
Passport1
Chassis Squeaks
Replies
3
Views
467
Danno
J
Odd suspension clunk - 13 VW Jetta Sportwagen
Replies
16
Views
741
Johan1
C
91 caprice has damaged its new front tires in under 3k...
2
Replies
25
Views
1K
Dinoburner
Back
Top