Cleaning up Redline's mess

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As part of my hot weather tune, my tuner recommended I switch my 192 F thermostat for a 180 F, reduce my coolant concentration from 50:50 to 15:85 and add a bottle of Redline Water Wetter.

I can't really comment on whether or not the WW made a difference, but I started noticing black pigments in my coolant. It's not the yoghurty stuff when coolant and engine oil mixes, but rather black pigments of oil floating on the surface.

Did a web search and found this on a Porsche forum:

Quote:
Greg Theisz
Southeast Regional Manager
Cell 713-253-3422 Fax 210-568-2940
[email protected]


We recently had a consumer provide us with a coolant sample that he thought had been contaminated with motor oil from a blown head gasket. We performed an analysis, and found it wasn't motor oil. It was polysiloxane polymer (i.e. silicone) from Red Line Water Wetter. He had been using this product for several years, adding a couple bottles per year.

Seeing this prompted us to look into the issue further in the controlled environment of our coolant test lab.

We setup our ASTM D2570 Simulated Service coolant test rig, and ran Water Wetter through repeated heat/cool cycles. We found that after 8-10 cycles, the polysiloxane polymer become completely insoluble. After another 5-6 cycles, it turned brown, and began coating the inside of the radiator. After another 15-20 cycles, it turned darker brown, and in the high heat area of the system became thicker in consistency -- almost like molasses.

As mentioned in a previous report on this topic, Red Line uses polysiloxane polymer as an antifoam ingredient in their Water Wetter formula. This is "old technology," as there are now far more sophisticated antifoam ingredients available for coolant. The problem with polysiloxane is that it is only marginally soluble in water, and polymerizes through repeated heating/cooling cycles.

Have a look at the attached photos. Two of them are glass beakers containing the Water Wetter/water solution drained from our ASTM test rig at the conclusion of the test. The other one is the coolant reservoir of the consumer who needlessly rebuilt his engine after using Water Wetter.

As you can see, this material looks a lot like motor oil. It coats everything it comes into contact with. It would take a lot of flushing to completely remove this from a cooling system. It's pretty nasty stuff. I can tell you, it took plenty of work to get it out of our ASTM test rig!

I have heard through the grapevine that the chemist who originally developed Water Wetter is no longer at Red Line, and none of their existing technical staff has any background in the area of coolants. For this reason, they are probably unable to update their formula to any newer types of technology. And of course, they are not members of ASTM, so they may not have any access to research or updated test methodology.

I share this info with you for two reasons:

1) Some uninformed consumers may errantly assume this material is motor oil in their coolant from a blown heat gasket, causing them to perform a costly motor teardown that is completely unnecessary.

2) There may be consumers who use Red Line Water Wetter before using Purple Ice. We certainly don't want them to think that Ice caused this. For this reason, I think our research on this subject may prove helpful at some point.

We have full documentation to back all of this up. And of course the web is filled with similar reports. If you Google the words "Water Wetter Brown" you find scores of them. Feel free to use this info however you may see fit.

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I'm not pleased to say the least, and would like to thoroughly flush the system and use John Deere CoolGard-II. But how do I get Redline's sludge out the system? Thanks!

Note: this is on the Grand Marquis.
 
I used the Red Line stuff in one of my SAABS, it turned new green coolant BLACK. Have not used it since. After a drain and flush the new coolant stayed green.
 
I don't want to be "that guy," but I know Amsoil's coolant booster does not do this, and even claims to be more effective while being nearly the same price.

People have been reporting that for a while now with WW, glad I never bothered to use it.
 
Problem I have here is availability. There's only one place selling WW, and I only bought it on recommendation. Otherwise the CG-II offers more than enough protection.
 
Originally Posted By: Falcon_LS
Problem I have here is availability. There's only one place selling WW, and I only bought it on recommendation. Otherwise the CG-II offers more than enough protection.


Pretty sure Pablo ships international, and considering the size and weight of a bottle it shouldn't be too bad.
 
I used water wetter when it first came out (1980's??). I added it to the old style green coolant, and didn't have any problems, but I also didn't notice any improvements in cooling. I think water wetter is suppose to be used with plain water, and not with coolant. It could be the new multipurpose coolant is causing problems.
 
We used Water Wetter when we were racing Motorcycles back in the 90s.. loved it. But at that time it could ONLY be used with straight water. The directions stated specifically that it WAS NOT to be used with COOLANT/Antifreeze.

I do not know if their formula has changed. I can tell you that
in it's Water + Water Wetter Prescribed form it was effective and performed as advertised. Most saw a 10 to 20 degree drop in operating temperature.This was in Texas where it is hot and the winters are usually mild .. we didn't race, of course, during the winter months and most racers stored their bikes inside. Many friends of mine chose to leave the Water Wetter in year round.. I did as well and had no issues.

Water Wetter has no antifreeze qualities ..
 
I don't know how any additive can deliver a drop in temperature in a thermostat-controlled environment. If there's no thermostat...okay. But if it's got a thermostat, the thermostat controls the temperature, not the liquid.

There is no reason, in my opinion, to add anything to quality coolant in an automobile.
 
Originally Posted By: Hokiefyd
I don't know how any additive can deliver a drop in temperature in a thermostat-controlled environment. If there's no thermostat...okay. But if it's got a thermostat, the thermostat controls the temperature, not the liquid.

There is no reason, in my opinion, to add anything to quality coolant in a STREET automobile.


Fixed and agree 100%.

Trust me, it won't be worth it to ship to Kuwait. Maybe $50 shipping.
 
Water Wetter was developed for track use where regular coolants are prohibited because of a slippery spill. It added corrosion inhibitors and lubricating agents to the plain water that otherwise would be used.

Somehow it leveraged the "racer gear" reputation to move from that legitimate purpose to become just another snake-oil product. Complete with testimonials that claim the cooling system actually turns to ice on the hottest days. (Really, if you are running 30 degrees cooler, replace your thermostat or the now-broken sensor.)

You don't need a lubricating or wetting agent with glycol coolants, and most have reasonable corrosion and foaming inhibitors.
 
Thanks for all the input. Apologies I miss any questions, I'm posting on my iPhone at the moment.

I drained the radiator from the petcock and got 2 gallons out. Then I refilled and allowed the engine to run until the fan kicked in at 212 degrees. Then I drained and refilled another 2 gallons until the water being drained was clear.

At the moment, I've got straight distilled water in there and after 50 miles of driving, it's turned orangey again. Got 2 bottles of Prestone Super Flush, and will drain the radiator again tomorrow, dump the bottles in and top up with water. Then run the engine for 10 mins as instructed before thoroughly flushing out. Will refill with CoolGard-II.
 
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
For hot climate I would go with 40-45% coolant 55-60% water.


That's a poor choice. The specific heat of the mixture is only slightly higher, not enough to compensate for the reduction in vapor pressure / boiling point.
 
Years ago I added WW to factory hyundai coolant in my XG350, A year or so later I noticed brown sludge in my coolant overflow and underneath my radiator cap.
shocked.gif
I used a flush to clean the radiator and used distilled water and amsoil coolant, never an issue since. I put a bottle of coolant boost in back around fall 2010. WW never again.
 
Wow Royal Purple putting down a Redline product. Shocking! Lol...

Used WW for maybe 20 years now in all kinds of cars and trucks and never a problem. In fact have never lost a water pump or rad since using it.. never have seen black spots either. Been running it in my 07 Prius both rad & inverter cooling loop for 60,000 miles and in my cop car Vic for 100,000 miles. Rad looks clean as could be.

Great product.
 
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