I had clean brake fluid in the reservoir. I changed the front disc brakes about 2 months ago. I just checked the reservoir and it was a bit dirty. So does the fluid migrate up?
Clean...now dirty brake fluid after change
- Thread starter coopns
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To some extent the lighter dirt will "migrate" with the fluid when push the calipers in to install the new pads.
Also, I didn't bleed them. Should that be done each time new brakes are installed?
Thanks.
Thanks.
No need to bleed if you just put new pads in, only if you drop the fluid. It does sound like you could use a fluid flush, though.
Moisture will also migrate from the wheel ends back through the lines. The primary points of entry for moisture are at the wheel cylinders and calipers, so the moisture concentration is highest there. The new fluid in the master cylinder will pull moisture until the concentration is mostly even. Pablo is correct, unless you opened a line you don't need to bleed the system, but it sounds like a flush is in order.
Cutting corners is using the old boots long after they are letting in too much moisture. You need to fix the problem, not the result.
do you guys have a preferred one man bleed kit or anything
When you compressed the calipers, old and dirty fluid was pushed back into the reservoir. So, this is expected.
You should have sucked it out and refilled it with fresh brake fluid.
But, you can still do this with great results. Do it 3-4 times total [every week do it once, to allow time to mix]. Nice and easy, and you don't bend over or get dirty.
Or, bleed the brakes - it's great for the system.
You should have sucked it out and refilled it with fresh brake fluid.
But, you can still do this with great results. Do it 3-4 times total [every week do it once, to allow time to mix]. Nice and easy, and you don't bend over or get dirty.
Or, bleed the brakes - it's great for the system.
always open bleeder before forcing caliper or cylinder collapse...let the water/corrosion puss out
do full system flush/bleed until clear fresh new bf comes out every 2 years in northern cold wet climates and southern hot wet climates....southern hot dry every 3>5 years
fluid is far cheaper than new master cyl's., calipers, cylinders, ABS system parts and brake line
do full system flush/bleed until clear fresh new bf comes out every 2 years in northern cold wet climates and southern hot wet climates....southern hot dry every 3>5 years
fluid is far cheaper than new master cyl's., calipers, cylinders, ABS system parts and brake line
I am always amazed after bleeding, flushing the brake fluid how dirty the fluid and catch pan, dirt, sediment, and what appears to be the break down products of rubber seals, etc. What is a reasonable life of calipers and wheel cylinders if you flush the brake fluid every two years? For the last couple of years I was blaming either the rotors for tearing up the pads (was told the ones made in China do that?) or the pads for tearing up the rotors, now believe that the problem was not the pads or rotors, but worn out brake calipers. The clue I missed was the irregular and uneven wear of the pads.
Scott
Scott
they tell us at my work to recommend calipers at 100k miles. i usually only recommend them when there is severe uneven pad wear, or some physical problem with teh calipers. a lot of the uneven wear are from incorrectly lubricated slides.
Fluid change every 20K-30K miles and everything is still OK at 342K.
You are pushing it to go 10 years with or without flushing. Flushing has very little effect outside the seals where problems start.
The most common cause of uneven wear is dirty hardware. Calipers usually continue to work fine until a piston with a gob of rust on the outoer part is pushed back inside the seal. It then either hangs or causes the seal to leak. Lot of brand new pads discarded when ruined by a leaking caliper.
bdcardinal,
Incorrectly or not lubed at all? How do you incorrectly lube them. (I am not being sarcastic, I am just trying to learn) I have only done brakes twice. I used some silglide.
Thanks.
Incorrectly or not lubed at all? How do you incorrectly lube them. (I am not being sarcastic, I am just trying to learn) I have only done brakes twice. I used some silglide.
Thanks.
My 1989 Ranger has calipers from the factory with phenolic pistons. It would seem that the phenolic pistons would not rust, any reason to upgrade to metal pistons when replacing calipers?
Scott
Scott
A good reason not to use the metal pistons is that they transfer heat into the caliper and thus to the fluid easier.
When the phenolic pistons were new technology, there were some problems with a somewhat high problem of warpage as they aged. This is pretty much a thing of the past. There really is no reason to replace them with metal pistons.
When the phenolic pistons were new technology, there were some problems with a somewhat high problem of warpage as they aged. This is pretty much a thing of the past. There really is no reason to replace them with metal pistons.
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