Choice of oil, cleaners, & or additives for Jag?

[ThomasJagGuy]

Hi Bob,
I have a 2002 Jaguar X-Type with the 2.5L Duratec-based AJ V6 DOHC VVT engine. I used Mobile One Advanced Fuel Economy 0w20 once it came out in my engine. I was shocked to find the engine was locked up after sitting for a week in my driveway, especially when it was driven and parked there acting perfectly normal.

I know this engine's oil runs fairly hot being the catalytic converters are tucked beside the engine, mounted directly to the exhaust manifolds. I've bought a used engine to be installed the week after next.

I'm now uncertain of what oil I should use, synthetic (which I always thought offered superior lubrication and protection of vital engine parts without breaking down into sludge or coke), or conventional oil.

What weight and viscosity?
I'm terrified of choosing the wrong product in the replacement engine. What oil is best and should I ever use a additive and which one? Continuously or occasionally?
If the replacement engine has crankcase buildup, should and can I safely use something to clean it up? Seafoam, Marvel Mystery Oil or something else?

 

[aquariuscsm]

http://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x-type-14/recommended-oil-x-type-2-5-a-56888/

Here`s some discussion on your car. Looks like 5W30-5W40.

 

[Astro14]

First, welcome to BITOG!

I would use a quality synthetic 5w30 or 5w40 as recommended. I doubt your engine died because of the M1, with an unknown history, there could be any number of reasons beyond oil selection. The mileage and previous service history might yield some clues...and "locked up" is more likely a head gasket leak into the cylinders...

Skip the additives. Your new engine has no need because you have yet to determine if it has any problems. Remember; if it ain't broke, don't fix it. A good synthetic will slowly clean up any sludge that might be present in your new used engine....

 

[aquariuscsm]

After reading through that post in the Jag forum,I`d go with T6 5W40. They were discussing zddp as well,which the T6 has. Don`t put a 0W20 in your new engine,it wasn`t designed for it.

 

[Trav]

I don't get it. You parked the car, it was running fine, you took the oil out and left it for a week? When you tried to start it wouldn't turn over?
Did you leave the drain plug out?

I would start by checking to see if the starter system was working properly, if good put some Kroil down each cyl and rock the engine with a breaker bar.
It doesn't sound right and has nothing to do with the Mobil 1, you drained it out.

 

[Astro14]

Trav, I think he was using M1 and simply parked his car for a week, to find that he engine was "locked up". He's replaced the engine. Now he's worried about what oil for this next engine.

 

[Trav]

Yep your probably right i am not reading this correctly. What am i missing?

Quote:
I used Mobile One Advanced Fuel Economy 0w20 once it came out in my engine. I was shocked to find the engine was locked up after sitting for a week in my driveway

 

[The_Eric]

I agree with Trav, we need more info, along with a detailed account of what transpired leading up to the decision to replace the engine.

 

[Win]

What a bizarre story.

I hope you did some diagnostics before you bought another engine. Like checking to see if the starter worked.

Anyway, the AJ-V6 has some unique parts compared to its Duratec sibling, but not enough to make any difference in lubricant requirements.

A quality 5/30 mineral oil like PYB, or any 5/30 synthetic oil will be perfectly adequate. No additives are necessary or should be used.

Better luck with the next engine.

BTW, the best source of information for all things Jaguar is www.jag-lovers.org.

 

[nepadriver]

Originally Posted By: Trav
Yep your probably right i am not reading this correctly. What am i missing?

Quote:
I used Mobile One Advanced Fuel Economy 0w20 once it came out in my engine. I was shocked to find the engine was locked up after sitting for a week in my driveway


I think its missing a comma, Should be "I used Mobile One Advanced Fuel Economy 0w20, once it came out, in my engine."

Without that comma, Trav is reading it as "the oil came out of my engine, and then the engine wouldn't start". Which is much different story!

 

[SLATRON]

definitely need info. doubt oils fault, but just use the recommended grade oil with any. certification etc. story seems srange thought, my mom had an x-type bought new was great car, very reiable, then traded in for used s-type few years later n same story. think owned by the ford dealer then or headquartered there here, can still see jag sign on side of old ford building where used to hav 10-15 of them for sale. my uncle ended up with that s-type, I always wanted it though. wwho toldd you mtor locked up n what does that entail to u

 

[ThomasJagGuy]

Hi Trav,

Didn't drain the oil. Only drove up and parked it at home. One week later I go in to drive it to work and the engine wouldn't turn over. The shop tried to turn it with a breaker bar 2 & 1/2 feet long and the engine wouldn't budge.

 

[nepadriver]

Once they took it out did they say what the insides looked like?

 

[ThomasJagGuy]

Thanks everyone who replied. It is a bizarre story. I generally only drive the car once a week, on Fridays to work. Sometimes on the weekend a bit. Had not driven or started the Jag in a week. When I drove home and parked it the last time all was normal, no unusual noise or running strangely, just normal running. So the next Friday rolls around and I go and get in it, turn the key, and only get a single click. Jumped the battery with my truck but only got a click. Had it towed to a shop that works on British cars. As a courtesy check they tried to rotate the engine with a breaker bar and it would not budge. The shop cited that rebuilding my original engine would be costly and recommended I swap in a rebuilt or used 2.5. I found one that is on it's way, and they will swap it into my car the week after next. I'll keep my original engine and see why it locked up with only 96k miles on it. May turn out to be a leaking head gasket that let coolant into one or more cylinders (hydrolock). Someone replied the lockup may not have been caused by using 0w20 Mobile One. That may be true if it's only a head gasket problem. Still I think I'm going with maybe Castrol 5w30 in the replacement engine. If the used engine fails I can always go back to the original, and can take my time going through the old one since the used engine will be in place in the car. Thank goodness this isn't my only vehicle. Have a '93 V6 Ranger pickup and a '03 Mazda Miata, so I'm completely mobile.

 

[ThomasJagGuy]

Originally Posted By: nepadriver
Once they took it out did they say what the insides looked like?


Hasn't been pulled out yet, replacement engine in route to me, arrives next Friday. The following week it gets installed. I don't think they want to go into the original engine. I'll get a engine stand and put the original on it in my garage and go through it. I'm hoping it's just head gaskets which I can handle. That will leave me with a running car and a spare engine.

 

[Trav]

Yes I figured that out with the help of the guys that posted. My English skills are not good enough to get through some things.
The thing that comes to mind is the engine lost a head or intake (wet manifold only) and hydro locked when shut down.

I have seen this before many years ago, its not common but it can happen.
It was common years ago that heater and radiator hoses would let go when the engine was shut down, now hoses are much better material but engines tend to "tear" head gaskets occasionally after shut down especially mixed metal engines (iron block aluminum head).

I suspect if they pulled the plugs then cranked it they would have coolant come out of one or two cylinders.
I would have gone into a little further but I suspect the engine needed head gaskets, not a bad job really and within the shade tree home tool box level of expertise.