Chevy Express paint issue's

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So it looks like we have the typical early Express hood paint issues. I've seen them everywhere we've traveled.. at least haven't lost any big sheets yet. Originally just going to sand, primer and hit it with the Rustoleum hammered (not sure on color). But now have a spot almost to the top. Debating visiting Linex, Rhino Liner and a couple paint shops? We'll be driving the alcan sometime in the next 5 years, although it can't be any worse than the roads here. Want the toughest available.

Would say a Weathertech bug and stone deflector help any? I've never had a vehicle look near this bad just from rock chips.

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Rock hits? Not many paint jobs these days can take rock hits and not chip.
 
Actually I'm sure if they are rock chips.. I'd think you'd be able to hear them. I know I heard the one on the Escape.
 
Chevy white paint sucks, peels off like crazy.

I'd get a can of white paint, like enamel or something and a tiny paint brush and fill in the spots with the chips.
 
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
Chevy white paint sucks, peels off like crazy.

I'd get a can of white paint, like enamel or something and a tiny paint brush and fill in the spots with the chips.


I did this with my first car and wound up with "donuts" of my retouch jobs surrounded by more peeling paint!
 
Originally Posted By: eljefino
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
Chevy white paint sucks, peels off like crazy.

I'd get a can of white paint, like enamel or something and a tiny paint brush and fill in the spots with the chips.


I did this with my first car and wound up with "donuts" of my retouch jobs surrounded by more peeling paint!
Lol!
 
The primer didn't stick to the e coat. Common on some cars, touch up isn't a real option, get it down to metal, epoxy prime, urethane prime then base/clear.
I am doing a GM trunk lid right now that did this, its a PITA.
 
So I can't imagine that white is that tough to blend. Maybe I'm 100% wrong.

But why not take it to a pro shop, get it prepped, painted and have a quality repaint on there?

I'd suspect that they could remove the hood and do it with a high temperature bake.
 
The good news is they run forever. We have a few 300k+ in the fleet at work with untouched powertrains.

 
Originally Posted By: artificialist
Does this also happen to the Nissan NV200? They are almost identical.

Nissan NV200 = Chevy City Express
Chevy Express = full size GM van.
 
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
So I can't imagine that white is that tough to blend. Maybe I'm 100% wrong.

But why not take it to a pro shop, get it prepped, painted and have a quality repaint on there?

I'd suspect that they could remove the hood and do it with a high temperature bake.


No need for baking anymore with the 2K base/clears, its not like the days of baked enamel that actually added some durability to the paint.
The most important thing to prevent this is a good rough and clean metal surface with 2K epoxy primer applied, this also need sanding which is a step manufacturers tried to avoid by chemical etching of the e-coat, it failed and peeling/poor adhesion is the result.
If you see metal under the paint chip it is just a normal chip but if you see black as in this case the e-coat is still on the metal and your dealing with adhesion failure.

Normal white and black are the easiest there is to blend and on a hood or trunk lid the amount of blending is only the top of the fenders or quarters, child's play really. Believe it or not one of the most important things to getting the color right on white is the quality and clarity of the clear. Never use low end clear on white, it can match perfectly but get it a little heavy and it gets a tobacco colored tint to it. Painting white is perfect for anyone wanting to try their hand at painting.
White pearl on the other hand is one of the hardest thing there is to match or blend, even pro's hide when one of those things show up.
 
Originally Posted By: dishdude
The good news is they run forever. We have a few 300k+ in the fleet at work with untouched powertrains.

Which engine is powering your fleet - 6.0, 5.3, 4.8, 4.3? The tranny must be the 6L80E.
 
We run 5.3's and 6.0's, some have gone half a million miles with untouched powertrains. The 4.8 is virtually identical without the AFM hardware.

Very low maintenance vehicles once you figure out their needs...
 
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did a roll on rustoleum job on a car that i sold to the kid across the street, still holding up good. cheap and easy.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
So I can't imagine that white is that tough to blend. Maybe I'm 100% wrong.

But why not take it to a pro shop, get it prepped, painted and have a quality repaint on there?

I'd suspect that they could remove the hood and do it with a high temperature bake.


No need for baking anymore with the 2K base/clears, its not like the days of baked enamel that actually added some durability to the paint.
The most important thing to prevent this is a good rough and clean metal surface with 2K epoxy primer applied, this also need sanding which is a step manufacturers tried to avoid by chemical etching of the e-coat, it failed and peeling/poor adhesion is the result.
If you see metal under the paint chip it is just a normal chip but if you see black as in this case the e-coat is still on the metal and your dealing with adhesion failure.

Normal white and black are the easiest there is to blend and on a hood or trunk lid the amount of blending is only the top of the fenders or quarters, child's play really. Believe it or not one of the most important things to getting the color right on white is the quality and clarity of the clear. Never use low end clear on white, it can match perfectly but get it a little heavy and it gets a tobacco colored tint to it. Painting white is perfect for anyone wanting to try their hand at painting.
White pearl on the other hand is one of the hardest thing there is to match or blend, even pro's hide when one of those things show up.


Interesting info.. Sounds like I may need a pro for it. I think I'll start with some quotes before I even attempt myself. Don't even have sander at this point.
 
Originally Posted By: George7941
Originally Posted By: dishdude
The good news is they run forever. We have a few 300k+ in the fleet at work with untouched powertrains.

Which engine is powering your fleet - 6.0, 5.3, 4.8, 4.3? The tranny must be the 6L80E.


Based on the pic that's the older body style and the 6L80E didn't come till a few years after mine.. I could be wrong. Your right the 6.0 motor will last but the trans and everything attached is kinda iffy at this point. The 4L80E is known to leak at the tail housing which mine is and seems to slip once it heats up, waiting to see what it does.
 
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