Originally Posted By: Clevy
Originally Posted By: JimPghPA
The trouble is that if it takes a few oil changes to get that oil out of the clutch pack you probably will destroy the clutch due to the slipping while riding, between those oil changes.
The proper fix for this problem is to pull the engine, remove the clutch and clean all parts with something that will cut the oil, such as parts cleaner, Dissemble the motor and clean every part with something that will remove the oil, and then pre-lube with a JASO-MA rated oil like Rotella T6 5W-40,
or Rotella T5 15W-40 and assemble and fill with the same Rotella.
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If you are not going to remove the engine and clean its insides and remove the clutch pack and clean all the parts, then I would try something with a low first number like Rotella T6 5W-40 because it might do a little better job of dislodging and absorbing the oil that is in it now.
Even better for removing the oil that is in it now might be a JASO-MA rated 5W-30. The idea being that the thinner the oil is the better chance of it dislodging and absorbing the oil that is in it now.
Years ago someone I know put STP oil treatment in a small motorcycle and he had to completely disassemble the motor and clutch and clean every part, and then put it all back together. That was his winter project.
You may or may not get it to come around by changing to a thinner oil that is JASO-MA rated, but if it continues to slip, it will probably fry the clutch if you continue to ride it.
Interesting. I didn't know that any stp oil treatments even had moly in them. I've used the stp blue bottle in my old yamaha v-star,and my Honda shadow and never had a clutch issue.
Op. Maybe seafoam will clean the suspected moly from the clutch disk,when used with conventional rotella. It will thin the oil and clean. Worth a shot. Cheaper than a rebuild if it works
Re: the thinner is better, in this case he has a thick oil that combined with the additives causes the clutch to slip, and a thinner oil will cut/ reduce the over all viscosity, hopefully enough to get enough of the thick oil to leave the working surfaces within the clutch.
If he did not have this ongoing problem thin would not be better.
Heck pure alcohol, (you can get 100 percent alcohol (that would be 200 proof and deadly to drink) with a denaturing agent at some hardware stores, some will have to order it for you, and a real chemist can get 100 percent alcohol without the denaturing agent) would probably be the best thing to put in there to get the existing oil to leave the clutch surfaces, but it would be way too thin to start the engine with it in there.