[censored], LUG NUT IS STRIPPED TIGHT!

[GenesisGuy70]

Originally Posted By: Rand
why not just split the lugnut?


Someone mentioned doing that. It's a viable alternative.

P.S. I'm from Canton, OH so hi sort of neighbor.

 

[FL_Rob]

If the nuts are recessed into the wheel ,depending on the length of the nut, splitting it from the exposed end all the way to the seat ..not sure how that's possible.

 

[Ducked]

Originally Posted By: Trav

It might but chrome lugs usually have a round head on them which may prevent the socket from going on all the way. They do make a deep 18.5mm damaged lug tool.


About half mine are domed (round-headed). Can't see any advantage to them, but several potential downsides.

Apart from this kind of crisis (so far narrowly avoided using long levers when required) it seems to me you could get hydraulic lock with greased bolts/studs which would be yet another factor preventing an accurate torque setting.

I don't worry too much about accurate torque settings for lug nuts, but the cylinder head studs on my GF's scooter also had domed nuts on them, and were a PITA.

 

[Olas]

Do you guys have these tools over in the US?

http://www.halfords.com/motoring/garage-...eel-nut-remover

These little fellas have saved my skin more than once..

 

[NHGUY]

Ken Tool makes a socket for that.

 

[Driz]

I cut mine off with a torch once. Lot's of fun cutting hardened steel deep set into an aluminum alloy rim. Then I mentioned it to a pro wrench months later. He said they make special socket for just that purpose and boy I wish i had known at the time. Get one it's worth it even if you have to sell it after on Ebay.
If some boob burned em on there with a high performance air gun you will probably have to knock out the affected stud and tap in a new one or pull it through using an oversize nut as a spacer and tightening a lug on top to suck it into place.
That's one reason I do nearly all my own tire work. Air guns make it so easy as long as you remember to just cinch them down gently with them. After that you still need the 4 way or breaker bar and socket.

 

[CapriRacer]

More detail on hammering on a deep socket to remove a rounded nut or bolt.

Choose the next size down - and that includes both metric and English. So the next size down from a 19 mm is 18 mm, but the next one down from 18 mm is 11/16".

Use a 12 point deep socket.

If that size slips, go down one more size.

Also, be sure you use PB Blaster on the threads. Patience is a virtue here. I've gone 2 or 3 days of soaking when I could spare the time.

Impact drivers are the best. Breaker bar, not as good.

 

[Traction]

I just went through this on my car, but they were not rounded. After market wheels with lug holes not machined in the correct position. Had 2 lug nuts on 2 wheels that were frozen. Long lug nut buried in the wheel with no room for an impact socket. I drilled into the stud/nut right along the threads to weaken it, then used the 3 foot long handle from my floor jack for leverage and twisted the nut back and forth to fatigue it and broke them off. Rounded off is another problem, but the best trick I've come up with for hardened locking lug nuts, which a reverse socket can't bite into because it is harder than the socket. I use a mig welder and put 6 evenly spaced tack welds around the end of the nut. That gives the socket something to bite on to. It works better than any other way. I can't believe I thought of it. I should have you tubed that trick. You can even get a regular 6 point socket to fit extremely tight with the tack welds on the nut.

 

[jmb3675]

Originally Posted By: CapriRacer
More detail on hammering on a deep socket to remove a rounded nut or bolt.

Choose the next size down - and that includes both metric and English. So the next size down from a 19 mm is 18 mm, but the next one down from 18 mm is 11/16".

Use a 12 point deep socket.

If that size slips, go down one more size.

Also, be sure you use PB Blaster on the threads. Patience is a virtue here. I've gone 2 or 3 days of soaking when I could spare the time.

Impact drivers are the best. Breaker bar, not as good.


That is exactly how we did it at the junk yard I worked at. It also usually worked for locking lug nuts we did not have a key for also. The 12 point sockets fit and grip the best.
Be sure to wear safety glasses. The socket could shatter, especially if it is not an impact socket.

 

[HangFire]

This is what cheap imported Splined sockets are for. Hammer it on, toss it when done.

 

[turtlevette]

On very tough situations like this, I normally use a 4" hand grinder with grinding disc not cutting, to eat away the nut or lug or whatever. These things can grind away anything in a matter of a few minutes. Go easy when you get close to the stud. The loss of material and heating loosen the grip of the nut. Take a chisel and finish it off.

Use thick gloves when grinding. The cheaper grinders can be had for around $20.

 

[andyd]

I had 3 studs come loose from the LF hub on the Rat I noticed it 1/2 way through a 200 mile trip. I didn't diagnose it until I got home . But I knew something was going on.The threads were all boogered up from a previous over torque. There was no way the wheel could fall off. It sure got loose though.
The first one I snapped. The others I drilled and split.I didn't do the alloys much good and the lug nuts are recessed, so faster methods couldn't be used.