I’ve been reading up on this error that I got just after buying a used 08 5.7L tundra. I have to get back to the dealer I bought it from but it’s an hour and a half away. I don’t want to go into limp mode so is there anything I can do to make this hold off until their mechanic can look at it? I have a Bluetooth code reader that allows me to clear the codes but my drive is all highway. Disconnect the battery? Thanks for the help!
CEL/SAIS/P2443 code 08 tundra 5.7L
- Thread starter Rykertest
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Is there any warranty on it before you drive that far? Looks like an air injection system code that most any local place should be able to fix.
No, no warranty. It was cheap and I knew it was a project but this specific repair not only surprised me, but it is expensive and I’m tryin to get them to fix or pay for it. Thanks for the reply.
You bought it as is. You bought it cheap. You bought a project. You're trying to get the seller to fix or pay for it. Good luck with that.
Let’s take a step back before you run off assumptions. I ran the code as it happened less than 24 hour after purchase and I found they had cleared it twice shortly before I arrived to drive it. They’re squirming and I’m letting them. I understand ”as is” but there’s also good faith negotiations. If there was no evidence they tried to hide the issue, it’s all on me, but there is and they did, so it’s Not.
I don't know the circumstances of how they got the truck, but can envision they bought it at auction and had it shipped to their lot. Probably not even drove it 500 feet. Then you drive it 100 miles and the code sets. They may have no idea about it. It may have been reset by whoever they bought it from to run through the auction. Code may have been cleared when a battery was changed recently.
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I think the answer is that it can put the vehicle in limp mode if the valve sticks open one way or the other - I forget which. However since your not having drivability issues now - I don't think its for certain. Honestly what option do you have? Other option is your looking at a pretty expensive tow unless you have y our own trailer.
I plan to do that although I’m not sure if Hewitt, api or Rutech is who I’ll go with. If I can get them to fix or help fix the issue, I still plan to do a bypass kit. Thanks for the help.
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You can also just disconnect the air pumps. Two gray connectors on the front left of the engine facing it. You'll have a constant cel but the system won't run and no limp. Ran that way for 10 years on my 2010.
That’s alot of stress you are setting yourself up for. Bypass kit and move on.
Unless there is 30 day/3k mile warranty you bought it "as is" and as such the dealer is under no obligation to help you. They may good will it just prevent bad PR but I would just purchase the delete kit and move on.
The good will part is what we’re looking at.
Good to know, thank you.
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