carb rebuild kit for gas generator

[Donald]

My backup generator (to my primary generator) seems to run better on 1/2 choke than no choke even when warmed up. So I went to partstree dot com and the rebuild kit is $116. I would have thought that would be the price for the full carb.

I cannot even get the gasket for the float bowl by itself.

Maybe pull it into the backyard and pour in some blue Stabil and run it until the gas runs out.

 

[Texan4Life]

what engine is it?

 

[HerrStig]

It's gummed. It may not need anything more than being removed and the passages cleaned. I doubt there is anything wrong with it otherwise. Is it a Briggs? It may be the passage from the bottom of the float bowl to the main jet, or the main jet itself. Don't go "golden screwdriveing" the jet settings until after you clean it and test it.

 

[Trav]

Don't take anything apart or adjust anything.

*Get some Berrymans Chemtool.
*Unplug the fuel line at the easiest location.
*Drain the float bowl if possible. If there is no drain run the engine out of fuel.
*Fill the float bowl with the Chemtool and pull the engine through a few times. Choke on, ignition off.

*Put about 2oz/gal of Chemtool in the tank. This will dissolve any varnish at the shutoff.
*let it sit overnight.
*Drain the float bowl.
*Reconnect the fuel line and start the engine, let it run.

You can try just putting Chemtool in the tank and running it with a load on the generator then leave it overnight if its not too bad.

 

[HerrStig]

Originally Posted By: Trav
Don't take anything apart or adjust anything.

*Get some Berrymans Chemtool.
*Unplug the fuel line at the easiest location.
*Drain the float bowl if possible. If there is no drain run the engine out of fuel.
*Fill the float bowl with the Chemtool and pull the engine through a few times. Choke on, ignition off.

*Put about 2oz/gal of Chemtool in the tank. This will dissolve any varnish at the shutoff.
*let it sit overnight.
*Drain the float bowl.
*Reconnect the fuel line and start the engine, let it run.

You can try just putting Chemtool in the tank and running it with a load on the generator then leave it overnight if its not too bad.
I use Berrymans in my bike and I like the stuff but it did nothing for the Briggs which was running at about a quarter choke. Redline didn't help either. I had to remove the carb and use some no 26 soft copper wire in the passages. Been through this with motorcycles more often than I want to remember, sometimes the "cleaner" works if the flow isn't too blocked, and sometimes it does not. Briggs carbs are well made and easy to work on, I can't say that about some of the other brands.

 

[Trav]

Its best to try the cheapest and easiest thing first IMHO.
There can be problems with Hz on the generator if one of the governor rods is not placed in the correct hole.
Its not uncommon for the rods to fall out while your trying to remove it either, leaving you with the choice of 6 holes to put it back in.

The carbs are not difficult that's true but can turn out to be a real fiasco if your not careful on generators.

Personally i hate taking stuff apart that was working good, i try everything first them if no joy rip into it.

 

[Pop_Rivit]

Originally Posted By: Trav
Its best to try the cheapest and easiest thing first IMHO.
There can be problems with Hz on the generator if one of the governor rods is not placed in the correct hole.
Its not uncommon for the rods to fall out while your trying to remove it either, leaving you with the choice of 6 holes to put it back in.

The carbs are not difficult that's true but can turn out to be a real fiasco if your not careful on generators.

Personally i hate taking stuff apart that was working good, i try everything first them if no joy rip into it.

I disagree. I'd highly recommend it be taken apart, cleaned and/or fixed correctly, and put back together. Anything else is just trying to dodge doing it right to begin with.

I don't need to spend all the time trying everything else first, because I'd rather fix it right to begin with. I've never seen chemical band-aids remove residue from improperly stored carburetors-physically cleaning the jets and passages is the only way to do it.

 

[Trav]

Quote:
Anything else is just trying to dodge doing it right to begin with.

That's ridiculous. If its just a little varnish it may be able to be cleaned during operation leaving the carb with all its original settings.
Taking stuff like this apart is sometimes necessary but not always. There is no "right" or "wrong" way, if the issue is varnish and its dissolved its dissolved end of problem

Chemical or ultrasonic cleaning of varnish is preferable to using a wire on brass jets unless there is a clog that cannot be dissolved.

PEA cleaners don't do well in these applications, its too slow and Chemtool wont do much for corrosion build up either just varnish.
If the engine runs its very possible its just a bit of varnish.

If you had a sticky lifter would you try something that cost a few bucks first or just tear into the engine to swap the lifter possibly costing a small fortune?
Going from what you said, even if the chemical worked its only dodging the repair and its going to need a tear down anyway.
Quote:
I don't need to spend all the time trying everything else first, because I'd rather fix it right to begin with
Anything else is just trying to dodge doing it right to begin with

Going for the toolbox and tearing into something first before trying the basics is the sign of a true amateur.

 

[HerrStig]

Note I suggest no 26 soft copper wire and not welding rod.

 

[Trav]

Yep i saw that. Nothing directed at you Stig that all i would use also if needed.
I have seen people use paper clips, jet reamers and god know what else and wonder why it doesn't run right after.

 

[Donald]

Originally Posted By: Texan4Life
what engine is it?


Its a B&S Vanguard engine with maybe a 10 HP OHV engine. I took the fuel bowl off for inspection and it was pristine. My fingers were the dirtiest part.

 

[Donald]

But the problem if I take it apart and tear any gasket is the cost of the rebuild kit.

 

[JimPghPA]

I have not ever worked on one of those. Is there idle adjust and or main adjust screws that can be removed? If there is you could put the plastic straw from a can of spray carb cleaner into the holes to clean out those passageways without removing the carb. Also if you can take off the bowl, can you access the passageways to blow them out from the openings available with the bowl off?

Also usually there is a small hole either by the gasket between the air filter and the carb, or on the floor of the main air passage way just behind the choke plate. That hole is for the idle air, and it is the area you have to blast clean. Best to clean it with the idle adjust screw removed.

If you do get it cleaned and working proper, you might try RedLine SL1 double dosed in the last run of fuel before storage. And some WD-40 down that idle air hole just before storage would probably help to prevent it from clogging again.

You probably want to wear eye protection goggles to prevent the carb cleaner from getting in your eyes.

A couple of rags around the area where the plastic straw from the carb spray cleaner touches the passageway probably would cut down on spray.

 

[JimPghPA]

BTW, I have never used it, but I understand that Amsoil sells a foaming carb cleaner. If I remember correctly it is a yellow color. You might be able to foam that carb while it is on the machine.

 

[JimPghPA]

Some B&S carbs have one or more welch plugs. If you try to clean it on the machine and you cant get it to come around, you may have to remove it to knock out the welch plugs to clean the areas under those plugs. You can see clips on youtube about removing and installing the welch plugs.

Sometimes in the past when I worked on something and the gasket was ruined, and no new one was available, I used the small pack of gasket seal at advance auto parts for about a buck a pack. They usually keep them in a cardbord box at the counters.

 

[JimPghPA]

If you drain the oil and gas and flip it over outside for a few hours so any remaining drops of gas do not smell up any indoor areas, you could then orient it any way you wanted to to access sections of the carb with the bowl off to clean the carb while it is on the engine.

 

[andyd]

Before I figured out how to deal with 10% ethanol gas, I became all too familiar with the carb on my B+S 11 hoss IC flathead that powers my sit down. But since I have begun to shut the gas off after every use and dosing the gas with MMO, its been 5~& yrs since I had to mess with it. The 10 hoss Tecumseh flat head on the genset has been beset with carb trouble since about 2 yrs after purchase. I have finally gotten the carb running right. 23 yrs later.