Originally Posted By: Greasymechtech
I am not a zombie. I am an experimenter. I try to do things and make things better.
I don't care what you do or don't do to your car, or what data is available for/against. Modify all you want and enjoy it.
Clean oil is beneficial. Whether you keep the vehicle long enough to see the benefit is irrelevant. Whether you ever change the oil again is another consideration. Cost for me isn't even a consideration.
Plumbing a bypass, its mounts, fittings, hoses, clamps, check valve, .... is fun in itself. Pick your method and post your install pictures, bypass brand info, ... and enjoy.
Be a doer or an inventor or a tinkerer or .... Don't ever let anyone tell you that there is no point or it can't be done.
I am a firm believer in real world results and not lab R&D. Studies/papers... have their place. But, too many believe that there is nothing else. Variables are infinite. Trial/error/failure/success is more important than taking anyone's word for it.
I don't care for using a fuel filter for oil. Media selection, flow rates, capacity, fluid visc.... can be specific. Thick cold oil vs easy flowing fuel are worth pondering. I am more of a fan of paper towel, cotton wound, toilet paper, .... filters. I don't think that ANY pleated filter can match dense media filtration. I was a big fan of the stacked plate Amsoil BE90-110 filters. I absolutely hate the EABP90-110 filters.
And, there is no point in debating in a forum. Too many people can't create or do anything at all anymore. If its in writing is good enough for them, but not to experimenters.
SAE papers, books, studies are what I consider as entertainment. I've picked too many apart to worry about any conclusion drawn from them.
Experiment!
Whether you meant to encourage me or not, you did, very much, and I appreciate it. America wasn't built in the lab, it was built by tinkerers who weren't willing to listen to "what couldn't be done." I started looking into bypass filtration because I travel frequently for my job, and my lovely wife doesn't know where the dipstick is. I'd like to sleep easy about her car even if I'm gone for a few weeks. I have a Kleen-Oil bypass filter on her car now, but I've also caught the tinkering bug.
I didn't join BITOG to debate anyone, and I don't know how much money I've spent; that's not even a consideration, although I'm sure it's not even enough to make a few months payments on a new car. I've got a real allergy to those payment books.
I bought a Puradyn PFT-8 unit for my car AFTER looking at the measurements online,
http://www.puradyn.com/5-7-product-line/ then going to Walmart and spending $5 on Play-doh, coming home, stacking about 7 cans of Play-doh on my radiator crossmember and then shutting the hood. How else could I check for clearance? Puradyn requires a GRAVITY return to the pan, the filter media is DENSE enough to dissipate 65 psi oil pressure. Puradyn has 5 US patents.
So I got on ebay, bought a spare oil pan, took careful measurements, solvent cleaned and sanblasted it, then drilled a hole in the side of it and TIG welded an aluminum bung fitting onto it. 4043 Aluminum welding wire will weld ALMOST any kind of aluminum that can be welded.
Since I have had three conversations with the salesman at the heavy machinery place that special ordered it for me and two conversations with the friendly engineers at Puradyn, no one they have heard of has ever installed one of these on a CAR.
Meanwhile, the UOA I have been doing has been giving me high silicon counts ON THREE CARS I own using brand new K&N filters. As an experiment, I installed an Amsoil nanofiber air filter on my car, and my silicon counts dropped from almost a thousand to less than 50. (Blackstone and other labs caution at 20ppm silicon). I put Amsoil nanofiber air filters on all three cars and now have test lab results to show how much silicon reduction they do. I have 3 like new K&N filters sitting on my workbench that probably fit 20 million GM cars on the road; they would be free to a good home.
Then I discovered that an aftermarket cone type air filter is a very popular modification; it seems that increased air flow is cost effective cheap horsepower, and it also slightly increases gas mileage, so there are probably lots of minivans out there with racing air filters.
Getting rid of the factory airbox under the hood seemed like it opened up Meramac Caverns, and my tinkering blood got to boiling. I discovered NTZ filters, I think they're made in Belgium, not really sure. I called their US location in Wixom, MI, and they sold me one. The BOX says Made in Germany, the filter media itself is stamped Made in Holland. Go figure. Anyway, the manufacturer claims this filter is 99.97% efficient @ 2 microns:
http://ntzfilter.com/sect2a.asp Scroll down to the bottom of the page and click on "effective filtration." NTZ filters are also patented.
Dropping back 20 yards, it doesn't seem like most US filter manufacturers (Fram, Wix, Purolator, pick your Walmart brand of engine destruction) even want us to know how efficient their filters are or aren't:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb..._filter_Specifi
I spent yesterday fabricating a bracket to mount the NTZ. I need some additional AN4 fittings, which I have to purchase on Ebay and wait for them to come from China or Hong Kong. Right now, I would be happy to post pictures of my installation in progress, but I gotta figure out how to post pictures without my email on a public forum.
I'm going to run two bypass filters in parallel, and I MAY have the most efficient bypass filter setup of any car in America. To the best of my knowledge there IS no test data on where I am. I KNOW I'm in uncharted waters. That's the fun of it. What's possible?