I've always used HD 30 until this year. I had a lot of Mobil Super Synthetic 5w30 on hand. I am using this instead and have no problems. There is no extra consumption like I've read about. YMMV
Sticking with the Briggs or any small engine sae30 oil would do you just fine. Yes small engine oils are packed with extra zinc in their additives. Would switching to a synthetic harm anything most likely not..So I have been mowing a few lawns around the neighborhood with my Toro Super Recycler, and I have been using Briggs and Stratton SAE 30 oil for a few years since I bought the mower used. I am wondering if I should stick to the Briggs SAE 30 conventional, or if I should use the Briggs synthetic, or if I can just use a 5w-30 synthetic. I have been reading a little too much into oils and their ZDDP amount for small engine oil. Do "lawn mower" oils have better additives, which will make my mower last longer or not? I watch the LawnCareNut on YouTube and he uses Mobil 1 10w-30 in Florida. I live in the northeast, mowing about 3 hours a week. I change oil 3 times a year in my lawn mower.
you change the oil out 3x a year if you start mowing April to October @ 3 hrs a week that’s about 84 hrs of mowing.. normally one goes 50 hrs or once a season for an oil change in your case 2 should be fine.
If you did swap out to synthetic you can definitely keep that oil change to 1 per season and just top off if need be.
I was using a general rule of thumb.. besides the manual for that machine state yearly after the first 5hrs.Swapping to syn does not alter the manufacturer rated oil change interval. Just because you run syn doesn't mean you can extend drains on a filterless OPE. If one normally changes oil twice per season, they should do the same for syn as well.
To the OP, unless it's cold, I actually prefer HD30 over any other oil in my OPE. Call me old school, but my experience shows less consumption with a mono grade.
Also, since thicker oils usually have more additives, would i be better of using a 40 or 50 viscosity oil? It sounds like Briggs websites says that I can.
Briggs own synthetic is 5w30 … it’s in my pull start. Been moving 10w30 from my car stash to OPE shelf …I have a jug of conventional 5w30 Supertech that was for a car I no longer own. I'm planning on using that in my mowers next year. The Briggs chart a page or so back shows the conventional 5w30 being used at 40°F and below. Would it not perform the same as SAE 30 up to 100°F?
Anyone looking for a good deal on SAE HD30 … my 2 Walmarts cleared this out (I have a stash) … good stuff as indicated by SN+ … just 7 left … look at price for 4 !I prefer SAE30 in air-cooled OPE (for summer use).
The URL you posted has 2 references a 0w20 and a 10w30. The URL actually points to an FVP 10w30 synthetic. In all likelihood it is an OK product, although I never heard of the manufacturer. I would put it in my push mower in a pinch, but would not use it in my zero turn's Kawasaki engine.This oil is at my local menards, would this be good for a lawnmower?
I already decided in November. I'm not sure why you are digging up every thread that has to do with lawn mower oil. I'm getting ready to do my third oil change this season with Super Tech Synthetic 10w-30.The URL you posted has 2 references a 0w20 and a 10w30. The URL actually points to an FVP 10w30 synthetic. In all likelihood it is an OK product, although I never heard of the manufacturer. I would put it in my push mower in a pinch, but would not use it in my zero turn's Kawasaki engine.
Keep in mind, for an almost comparable price, you can pick up a well-known brand of full synthetic at Wallymart.
A 0w20 is a thin product for modern cars, with very good low temp pour point, targeted for best fuel economy. Imo it somewhat compromises on engine wear protection in the interest of manufacturers meeting CAFE standards. This is just my opinion. In an OPE, it will be sub-optimal, for example you will likely see some amount of oil consumption.
IMO a 0w40, 15w50 , (possibly the 10w30) will work better. My preference is the heavier 40 or 50 summer viscosity oils, which tend to minimize oil consumption, and provide better wear protection for multiple reasons. The user's manual is an useful aid, giving an idea what certifications the manufacturer requires for the oil and what viscosities are allowed/recommended depending the on the typical
outside temp. (The manufacturer's cert requirements tend to be minimalist, and the newer certs often also cover the older certs)
The Toro recycler is advertised as "no oil changes ever" which is interesting. Maybe it is designed to burn so much oil that you have to add a substantial amount frequently. Hmmm. How does that prevent the buildup of contaminants? So the manufacturer's standards on oil seem to be pretty low.
When choosing lawn mower oil, use a high-quality detergent oil classified as "For Service SF, SG, SH, SJ" or higher. Do not use special additives.
Synthetic oils are an acceptable oil at all temperatures. The use of synthetic oil does not alter required oil change intervals.