Bought my first jug of 0w-20 and wow is it thin!

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Originally Posted By: HosteenJorje
That 0w-20 is still too viscous at start up for any place in the world.


True, but most of us actually drive our cars after we start them.
laugh.gif
 
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
Originally Posted By: tig1
I started using M1 5-20 in the 70's in an engine calling for 10-40. Your fine.

Now this would scare me. What made you decide to do this anyways?

If it scares you, how about I used PP 5W20 in my E430. The oil spec is A3/B3 and M1 0W40 is on 229.3-229.5. With PP 5W20 in crankcase I drove to Vegas in July 2008, got stuck at Death Valley for 3 hours with temperature above 120F. Engine was/is fine with PP 5W20.
 
Originally Posted By: GMorg
@ The_Eric:

I think that you are conflating pour point depressants with viscosity index improvers. PPDs reduce crystallization upon cooling. VII unfold with heat to reduce thinning as the oil is heated. However, VII also fold with cooling to accelerate thinning upon cooling.


Right, but it still thins, the VII's simply keep it within "spec". And it still thickens when it cools, which VII's work to reduce. It is like taking a slope and just making it more gradual.

PPD's work further down the temperature scale and are, as you noted, there to reduce crystallization, which, with non-PAO base oils, allows them to flow at temperatures they otherwise wouldn't.
 
Your Honda might run 1% longer if only you'd used a Euro spec 0W-40.
Your Honda will be running well the day it goes to the yard using 0W-20 throughout its useful life.
Why worry about it?
 
Originally Posted By: 4wheeldog
I also grew up putting 20W/50 in hot rods and motorcycles. 10w/40 for grocery getters seemed thin.....But I used it because it (Empirically) worked just fine.


Hmmmmmm……..not bad, a little light maybe.

I used 20W-50 in winter and 40-70 in summer (no W in the spec., not needed as it ain't for winter)
 
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
Originally Posted By: tig1
I started using M1 5-20 in the 70's in an engine calling for 10-40. Your fine.

Now this would scare me. What made you decide to do this anyways?

If it scares you, how about I used PP 5W20 in my E430. The oil spec is A3/B3 and M1 0W40 is on 229.3-229.5. With PP 5W20 in crankcase I drove to Vegas in July 2008, got stuck at Death Valley for 3 hours with temperature above 120F. Engine was/is fine with PP 5W20.


WITCHCRAFT !!!!!

Crosses himself, turns and runs away…………...
 
Last couple of oil changes I did were at 30-40F temps on cold engines... 0w20 can be nice for that.
 
What's the engine sound like while it's running on 0W-20 ?

clickety clack....clickety clack....clickety clack....clickety clack....
tick tick tick tick tick tick tick tick tick tick tick tick tick tick....
 
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
If it scares you, how about I used PP 5W20 in my E430. The oil spec is A3/B3 and M1 0W40 is on 229.3-229.5. With PP 5W20 in crankcase I drove to Vegas in July 2008, got stuck at Death Valley for 3 hours with temperature above 120F. Engine was/is fine with PP 5W20.


Jackie-Gleason-Smokey-and-The-Bandit.jpg
 
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Buford T. Justice -- one of my most favorite characters of all time.
grin2.gif




Ha.

Awesome.

You just went up a notch in my book there merk.

Now if we could remedy your propensity of starting nonsense threads....
 
For me, I've never been able to wrap my mind about America's love affair with high viscosity motor oils. It just does not compute.

I remember back in the '60's, when single viscosity oils were still quite commonly used, my father used only SAE20 in his cars. My father bought almost all of his cars new, and drove most of them until they were ready for the junk yard. But he never had an engine failure in any of his cars.
 
Don't worry I have a 2013 Sport and got free Honda oil changes and they use 0w-20 all the time. It looks the same at the end of 10K every time. Motor is quiet and I never add oil either.
 
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: GMorg
@ The_Eric:

I think that you are conflating pour point depressants with viscosity index improvers. PPDs reduce crystallization upon cooling. VII unfold with heat to reduce thinning as the oil is heated. However, VII also fold with cooling to accelerate thinning upon cooling.


Right, but it still thins, the VII's simply keep it within "spec". And it still thickens when it cools, which VII's work to reduce. It is like taking a slope and just making it more gradual.

PPD's work further down the temperature scale and are, as you noted, there to reduce crystallization, which, with non-PAO base oils, allows them to flow at temperatures they otherwise wouldn't.


Thanks for straightening me out guys!
 
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Buford T. Justice -- one of my most favorite characters of all time.
grin2.gif



Same here!!
11.gif
Along with his son "Junior" were an awesome combo!
 
Originally Posted By: BHopkins
For me, I've never been able to wrap my mind about America's love affair with high viscosity motor oils. It just does not compute.

I remember back in the '60's, when single viscosity oils were still quite commonly used, my father used only SAE20 in his cars. My father bought almost all of his cars new, and drove most of them until they were ready for the junk yard. But he never had an engine failure in any of his cars.


You have to temper that with the fact that the monograde 20s were typically the same HTHS as a modern day ILSAC 30.

2.9 is typical for a dino non-viied 20 grade, and was made the 30 grade minimum only after they found that the "new" multigrades weren't working as well as their KVs would suggest.

So while some on the board claim that Redline are really "the next grade up", the multigrades are typically "the next grade down" in HTHS.
Min HTHS for a 30 is typically what an SAE20 was out of the ground.
Min HTHS for a 40 is typical of an SAE 30.
 
Originally Posted By: Bottom_Feeder
My 2015 Accord Sport is going to need its first oil change real soon, so I picked up some Mobil 1 EP and a Fram XG filter from the local soul-sucking Walmart. My previous Impreza and my wife's Corolla both use 5w-30 which already seems a bit thin to a guy who grew up putting 10w-40 in a succession disco-era Chevys, but 0w-20 feels like it's about as viscous as water! I know it's able to do the job and modern motors are designed to use it, but jeez, I'm having a hard time wrapping my brain around how that's possible.

Just observing, move along...


Hondas call for a 5W-20 or 0W-20 oil, that is what they are designed to use.

You didn't HAVE to buy oil from the soul sucking Walmart, there are PLENTY of other auto parts places that sell oil and filters.
 
Originally Posted By: stchman
Originally Posted By: Bottom_Feeder
My 2015 Accord Sport is going to need its first oil change real soon, so I picked up some Mobil 1 EP and a Fram XG filter from the local soul-sucking Walmart. My previous Impreza and my wife's Corolla both use 5w-30 which already seems a bit thin to a guy who grew up putting 10w-40 in a succession disco-era Chevys, but 0w-20 feels like it's about as viscous as water! I know it's able to do the job and modern motors are designed to use it, but jeez, I'm having a hard time wrapping my brain around how that's possible.

Just observing, move along...


Hondas call for a 5W-20 or 0W-20 oil, that is what they are designed to use.

You didn't HAVE to buy oil from the soul sucking Walmart, there are PLENTY of other auto parts places that sell oil and filters.


How about the "soul sucking" AA, AZ, O'Reilly's Napa, etc? Or Target, K Mart, and Costco?
 
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