Black car--solution for scratches and wax advice

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You should probably use the 845 before the NXT, and why did you get compound and not get polish?


That would be exactly wrong. Always sealant (NXT) first then wax 24 hours later. Meg's Ultimate Compound finishes out quite well and many times a lighter polish is not needed but that's when using a machine. A polish may well be required doing the job by hand.
 
Originally Posted By: RTexasF
Trying to remove marring/cobwebs by hand on an eight year old black car is a fools's errand. You can buy the buffer, equipment, chemicals, etc., and learn to do it yourself or hire someone to do the work. Don't expect showroom results on eight year old paint but it can look a lot better. . .


I tend to agree with this. A skilled detailer using the right equipment and products can often bring these examples to better than showroom . . . provided you have the $$. The best ones on the west coast charge dearly to remove the slight orange peel from new high-end vehicles, creating a blindingly stunning mirror finish. Removing cobwebs and swirls on a decade old finish are child's play to a top professional - it will look better than the day it was made.

My bigger concern in these situations is an amateur or hack running a hot wheel and causing big damage.

Doing it by hand eliminates that risk, but the results won't ever be as impressive as when a real pro does it.

For an old Honda and a guy on a budget, start with a couple hand passes and see how it looks. 80-90% improvement is more than enough unless this is some kind of show car project.
 
That's what I heard. After clear cut with ultimte compound, sealant should be applied then wax.
 
I totally agree that I won't be able to do a job as a pro does it. I am a student and my car does look like dull! and it's black and has lots of scrathces some of are deep. This is not going to be a showcar or something
smile.gif
it's just my ride but I like taking care of my cars so that's why I try to do my best.
Now, I am even considering buying a polisher to do this job; however, it is unlikely to get one due to high prices.
 
The thing you have going for you is Hondas have "soft" paint which is fairly easy to correct even by hand. Go for it, the amount of work is huge but you'll be proud once it's done.

The polisher/buffer is just the first baby step. You will also need a backing plate, various pads, a good machine polish, many microfiber towels (which you should already have), and more. You'll need $250-300 for the most basic essentials. Not exactly chump change especially for a student.
 
Originally Posted By: Sam_Julier
I have used the following Griot's Garage products on two black Volvo's in this sequence: wash, paint prep, dry, clay, machine polish 2, machine polish 3, pre wax spray, Best of Show Wax (2x) with orbital buffer. After this initial treatment only wash, clay and wax is required. The results are stunning.


YES!!

This is what I do and the Groits system works great and is safe. You cannot get the job done right w/o an orbital buffer, however. If you must do by hand, he makes a hand polish too.

---The comments about not being able to get results as good as a pro detailer..I DISAGREE. I've had to many times "fix" what a "pro" detailer as done and the Griots system allows you to do the job better.
 
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Originally Posted By: GMBoy

I've had to many times "fix" what a "pro" detailer as done and the Griots system allows you to do the job better.

I wouldn't quite call a detailer that needs to have his/her work "fixed" a professional. "Most" of the time it's very hard for someone with limited tools and knowledge to replicate what a "true" professional can achieve.
 
Originally Posted By: GMBoy


---The comments about not being able to get results as good as a pro detailer..I DISAGREE. I've had to many times "fix" what a "pro" detailer as done and the Griots system allows you to do the job better.


Seems you put "pro" in quotes to put your rabbit in the hat in "fixing" their work.

Like mechanics, doctors, and every other vocation, there is a spectrum of competence among detailers.

I disagree with you. I've seen what a top professional detailer, with many years and thousands of vehicles of experience, can do with a high end paint finish. I doubt you can better it with off the shelf Griots stuff, period.

Don't lump those experts in with the corner knuckleheads wielding a hot wheel and a couple bottles of Meguiar's. I've dealt with the latter, and the thousands of dollars of damage they can cause in ten minutes.
 
Originally Posted By: CivicLX

Now, I am even considering buying a polisher to do this job; however, it is unlikely to get one due to high prices.


CivicLX,

Save your hard-earned cash for the books. A decent semi-orbital is at least a couple hundred dollars. The cheaper ones are a waste of money. And for a little more than the cost of a machine, you could get the exterior professionally reconditioned.

I was a student once. Buy some bottles and cans of affordable chemicals at the corner auto parts store, a bag of cotton rags, and do it the economical and old-fashioned way. With your enthusiasm, it will turn out fantastic.

Someday you'll be riding in a big fancy new Lexus and have a lot less inclination to do this. Save the detailer for that one.
 
Originally Posted By: Volvohead
Originally Posted By: GMBoy


---The comments about not being able to get results as good as a pro detailer..I DISAGREE. I've had to many times "fix" what a "pro" detailer as done and the Griots system allows you to do the job better.


Seems you put "pro" in quotes to put your rabbit in the hat in "fixing" their work.

Like mechanics, doctors, and every other vocation, there is a spectrum of competence among detailers.

I disagree with you. I've seen what a top professional detailer, with many years and thousands of vehicles of experience, can do with a high end paint finish. I doubt you can better it with off the shelf Griots stuff, period.

Don't lump those experts in with the corner knuckleheads wielding a hot wheel and a couple bottles of Meguiar's. I've dealt with the latter, and the thousands of dollars of damage they can cause in ten minutes.



Originally Posted By: FastEddie
Originally Posted By: GMBoy

I've had to many times "fix" what a "pro" detailer as done and the Griots system allows you to do the job better.

I wouldn't quite call a detailer that needs to have his/her work "fixed" a professional. "Most" of the time it's very hard for someone with limited tools and knowledge to replicate what a "true" professional can achieve.



You both make good points. I should have been more clear - I was referring to the car wash detailers and the like. They suck. You are right - a true detailer can do magic. But I stand by my point that you can match their work....short of wet sanding which I don't recommend to the novice. Otherwise it is wax on wax off nothing special!

I have professionally detailed vehicles for 25+yrs including some cars you will see at the World of Wheels car shows so I do know about detailing.

About the "off the shelf Griot's Stuff" comment - I've used almost all of them and Griots is very good and not off the shelf like Mequires, Mothers etc. I use a lot of his stuff, but also complement with other brands.

One thing is for sure - you cannot get the best finish by hand and using a 1-step wax, an orbital buffer and several progressive polishing steps are required for that.
 
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I recently did a similar job of swirl and scratch removal by hand on my dark blue CRV and I have a few peices of advice that may help.
1. tackle one panel of the car at a time and divide the work up over the course of a few days/weeks. For example do the hood one day, the front fenders another day...etc. your arms will thank you and you'll do a better job if your not exhausted half way through the job.
2. Honda paint it soft and you can get good results by hand if you take your time
3. Use the least aggressive product that will get the job done, if you only have minor swirls and scratches you probably do not need an aggressive product like Ultimate Compound, ScratchX 2.0 or SwirlX are probably better choices.
4. Get yourself some good applicators, something like the Polishin Pal or the LC euro foam hand applicators will make the job much easier on your hands
5. If the car is daily driven and your not going for a show type finish then you may want to give an all in one product a try. You can get very good results on softer paint with a good AIO product like Sonax paint cleaner, Duragloss 671/501, Meg's d151...etc

Hope this helps. Good luck and most important have fun!
 
I have a 2008 xB in Black Sand Pearl with now 70K on it, including what, five Cleveland winters?

My paint looks better than show-room quality. I kid you not! In dealerships I was amazed how swirly and stuff those finishes can be for being brand new...

Here are my tips for black cars:

1.) Never, ever use a normal car wash. If you must, use a touch-free one (I do in winter for the salt). Hand wash only with microfiber mits using a two-bucket method (one with clean soapy water, one with just rinising water to clean the sponge after every panel). Work from top to bottom on the vehicle. Use proper soap, like Meguiars Gold Glass wash. Dry using microfiber cloths to eliminate water spots.

2.) Clay bar once a year. Follow up with paint correction such as Swirl-X or the new microfiber correction fluid by Meguiars along with a DA buffer (meguiars or porter cable). A buffer will help IMMENSELY with keeping the black car in the best shape possible with the proper pads. After claying, use a sealant like NXT 2.0, M21 or Gold Glass Carnauba Plus. Whatever you like.

3.) Make sure to remove any and all bird droppings and other similar blemishes with quick detailer spray as soon as possible. To prevent etching of the paint.


For sure invest the money in a buffer system such as the Meguiars or PC7424 XP model. Get the proper pads (I really dig the new microfiber pad system... Much nicer cut and working time, low dust, etc...). It will cost some money up front but be worth it.

Here are some pictures of my car as of last year I believe... I just detailed mine again the past two days and probably looks even better now.

4-3.jpg


3-5.jpg


1-11.jpg


2-9.jpg
 
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Just reviving this post briefly.

But take a look at this young man's web site, and in particular his photos posted of his "premium concours service" performed on a Ford GT.

Very impressive results - at a price to match.

I had not heard of this young man before. But the results, particularly for the doors, were just spectacular.

Here's what a top detailer can do:

http://www.detailbyvinny.com/
 
Using the consumer grade orbitals (like the Porter Cable or Griot's model), can you really screw things up too badly? While I still have my Civic, I am looking to gain some experience doing things myself, and detailing is one. It is black and the paint isn't terrible, but it isn't shining much either. With a little effort, I think it can look pretty good again for 13 years, and also give me some experience to take care of our new Outback and whatever I eventually buy to replace the Civic.

I have some Collinite on order, plan to clay bar, and need to pick something like the Swirl X. I was going to just do it by hand this time, but I'm considering getting a buffer now, so I can work on technique with the Civic.

I've been reading on Autogeeks and the number of different products out there is just dizzying for someone trying to get some decent products together. I've also found some talented local detailers on there, but seeing they apparently have plenty of business doing M5s and other high end cars, I can't imagine they are inexpensive. Plus I'd like to not have to call someone all the time. If anything I might hire a guy to give the Outback a solid "start" with a nice detail early in its life.
 
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Dont buy a black car.

Id go with the set of mezerna polishes that go ever finer and use them sequentially. Then do a final paint prep/polish and then apply a sealant.

And be FAR more careful next time.
 
Originally Posted By: xBa380
I have a 2008 xB in Black Sand Pearl with now 70K on it, including what, five Cleveland winters?

My paint looks better than show-room quality. I kid you not! In dealerships I was amazed how swirly and stuff those finishes can be for being brand new...

Here are my tips for black cars:

1.) Never, ever use a normal car wash. If you must, use a touch-free one (I do in winter for the salt). Hand wash only with microfiber mits using a two-bucket method (one with clean soapy water, one with just rinising water to clean the sponge after every panel). Work from top to bottom on the vehicle. Use proper soap, like Meguiars Gold Glass wash. Dry using microfiber cloths to eliminate water spots.

2.) Clay bar once a year. Follow up with paint correction such as Swirl-X or the new microfiber correction fluid by Meguiars along with a DA buffer (meguiars or porter cable). A buffer will help IMMENSELY with keeping the black car in the best shape possible with the proper pads. After claying, use a sealant like NXT 2.0, M21 or Gold Glass Carnauba Plus. Whatever you like.

3.) Make sure to remove any and all bird droppings and other similar blemishes with quick detailer spray as soon as possible. To prevent etching of the paint.


For sure invest the money in a buffer system such as the Meguiars or PC7424 XP model. Get the proper pads (I really dig the new microfiber pad system... Much nicer cut and working time, low dust, etc...). It will cost some money up front but be worth it.

Here are some pictures of my car as of last year I believe... I just detailed mine again the past two days and probably looks even better now.

4-3.jpg


3-5.jpg


1-11.jpg


2-9.jpg




Now that is a nice job. Wish I lived in Ohio, id hire you to do all my cars!
 
Originally Posted By: Vikas
How can he keep his car so shiny even with all the white stuff on the ground in the winter?


bring it into a heated warehouse/building and wax it there.
 
But as soon as the car leaves the garage and is on the public road, all of his hard work gets salted on.
 
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