Best gun oil?

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BTW, I also wanted to thank AMC for your recommendations a couple pages back. I looked into corrosionx and it appears to perform amazing as both a rust protectant and as a lubricant as well. (Scoring just .4mm wear scar in the ASTM D4172 4 ball test for the aviation version). Kinda pricey at $25 after shipping but they do give you 16 oz.
Loobed, what motor oil are you using and how is it working out?
I've read that Amsoil amt and valvoline synpower have incredible performance and anti wear scores of only .35mm wear scar in the ASTM D4172 four ball test. Plus their wide operating temperatures and resistance to burn off ect. I've seen many people state that they use motor oil but I thought I read somewhere (maybe here) that it’s not good to use because the additives some motor oils use are pretty bad. I'm sure Tempest and AMC can fill us in on this. I’m actually very curious now. If the MSDS doesn't list any harmful ingredients can we use them (amsoil amt or Valvoline synpower) or is there something about them that would make them bad to use? Because if they're ok to use, they sure do give you a lot more oil for your money ($9 - $10/qt) .
I'm interested in whatever protects best against wear specifically for sliding forces between steel & anodized aluminum rails.
Exceptional anti wear, good temp range, lubricity so it won’t impede the slide cycling speed and not hazardous.
 
Here are some picture of my Glock. It is a Gen 2. I had a Gen 1, but it got stolen, so I got this one. I can't remember how many round I have fired out of this one, but I think it is somewhere between 2000 and 3000 round. I know I fired at least 1000 in the last 2 years.

The most noticeable wear is at the arrows

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Its been my experience that as long as you use some type of lube, whatever it is, you'll be all set. The difference between the worst and the best gun lubes on the market with regards to weapon wear is negligible. If there is any factor of a lube that makes a difference, it would be viscosity. I've seen cases where too thin or too thick has had an impact on performance...depends on temperature, weapon type, and other conditions.
However, as long as you are using some type of lubrication, whether it be the primo high dollar weapon lube, or cheap engine oil, you'll be fine. I recently read an AR-15 article where the author used a feminine hygiene product as a lubricant, with great success.


About the only thing I concern myself with these days is overall toxicity of the products I'm using. I like cleaning my weapons indoors, so low odor products are a must. Also since I don't like wearing gloves while cleaning, I try to use products that are non-toxic, or at least "less toxic" then others. I'm currently using Mpro7 products with good success. They are all non-toxic, and rather effective, especially the weapon cleaner. For greases I typically use white lithium non-toxic grease. Use this on my AR BCG, and Glock frame rails...works good.
 
Originally Posted By: Laico
BTW, I also wanted to thank AMC for your recommendations a couple pages back. I looked into corrosionx and it appears to perform amazing as both a rust protectant and as a lubricant as well. (Scoring just .4mm wear scar in the ASTM D4172 4 ball test for the aviation version). Kinda pricey at $25 after shipping but they do give you 16 oz.
Loobed, what motor oil are you using and how is it working out?
I've read that Amsoil amt and valvoline synpower have incredible performance and anti wear scores of only .35mm wear scar in the ASTM D4172 four ball test. Plus their wide operating temperatures and resistance to burn off ect. I've seen many people state that they use motor oil but I thought I read somewhere (maybe here) that it’s not good to use because the additives some motor oils use are pretty bad. I'm sure Tempest and AMC can fill us in on this. I’m actually very curious now. If the MSDS doesn't list any harmful ingredients can we use them (amsoil amt or Valvoline synpower) or is there something about them that would make them bad to use? Because if they're ok to use, they sure do give you a lot more oil for your money ($9 - $10/qt) .
I'm interested in whatever protects best against wear specifically for sliding forces between steel & anodized aluminum rails.
Exceptional anti wear, good temp range, lubricity so it won’t impede the slide cycling speed and not hazardous.


Yes corrosion x is good stuff, pretty much does everything well. The pricing for it does seem to be all over the place though. From skygeek, it is very cheap, less than $1 an oz for the large size cans.

http://search.skygeek.com/?vwcatalog=stylespilotshop&keywords=corrosion+x&x=0&y=0

I have writen about using motor oil as a weapon lube before. Basically, motor oil works fine as a gun lube. The problem is, it is only a lube and does absolutely nothing to clean or prevent rust. For the shooters who shoot lots of rounds and prefer to use a solvent type cleaner and a seperate corrosion preventer, motor oil works just fine.
Personally, I prefer more of a CLP type product and being that I live oceanside, I need a strong rust preventer. I only use harsh solvents and grease very sparingly and for specialty type applications only. 95% of the time, I use corrosion x and it works well for me.
To answer your question about aluminum and steel wear specifically, The biggest part of preventing wear on aluminum is to keep it very clean. Aluminum tends to wear very quickly when gritty sludge scours it. An example of this would be the mixture of gun oil and firing residue in the frame rails of your alloy framed pistol if you were to lube the frame rails without cleaning them well first. Keep aluminum clean and lightly oiled with a lube with a pH of 7 or higher and it will last a long time.
 
What do you recommend as a cleaner to use on the aluminum rails if I decide to go with a separate cleaner instead of a combined CLP. Thanks!
 
I'm NOT a guns expert while in the service used and gave maintenance to a SAW-249 and M-16 and later a M-9.Owned Whitefeather Carlos Hathcock M1A, Glock 22C ,glock 21 ,Para Ordanance 14.45 and had a Bushmaster Carbon 15.Obviously while in the service i used whatever was available many times I swear is was motor oil however never had a problems beyonf the normal M16 jams more due to gun desing tht was very sensitive to dirt.

On my privately owned guns first time I bought a cleaning kit from the shop the brand was Hoppe's it worked perfectly then i switched to another very expensive brand and it basically did the same as the cheap one so why bother to pay more.

In 7 years of having both glocks and the para never a single issue but the recoil spring on glocks but is was not lube fault but design and material there was even a recall.On the Para a couple fail to eject to eject and few jams but again gun design and gunsmith took care of it doing some work on feeding ramp and the ejector.Carbon 15 have shot probably 10k rounds so far a couple of jams and stovepipes ammo related.

Summary any decent gun lube will do even cooking oil is better than no lube if you can stand the smell.Clean and lube your gun regularly and according to the amount of rounds put many people go to range and don't take cleaning kit unless you plan to shot 10 rounds you will need it.Good quality ammo will make a world of difference specially many imported cheap ammo from Russia and China and some other places.
 
Originally Posted By: Maximus_pr


... even cooking oil is better than no lube ...





I would be careful of any kitchen vegetable oil. It turns to a glue like substance over time. Crisco shortening would not do that.
 
Originally Posted By: Laico

What do you recommend as a cleaner to use on the aluminum rails if I decide to go with a separate cleaner instead of a combined CLP. Thanks!



Hopes #9. You could even try Marvel Mystery Oil. I mix the two 50/50.

I wash the bottom half of my Glock with dish soap, warm water, and an old toothbrush. I like the Grapefruit Ajax. Use a blow dryer to remove all the water.
 
Originally Posted By: Laico

What do you recommend as a cleaner to use on the aluminum rails if I decide to go with a separate cleaner instead of a combined CLP. Thanks!


Anything really, I wouldn't use bore solvents such as hoppes# 9 though. Just a dab of pretty much anything that will remove residue will work. If you are real cheap, you could dip a tooth brush into a jar of odorless mineral spirits and scrub the aluminum until it is clean. The mineral spirits will clean quickly but are not strong enough to damage the aluminum and will evaporate before they could ever damage anything anyways. Just make sure to re-lube when you are done and everything will be fine. Again, don't over think this stuff!
 
Originally Posted By: AMC
... If you are real cheap, you could dip a tooth brush into a jar of odorless mineral spirits and scrub the aluminum until it is clean. The mineral spirits will clean quickly but are not strong enough to damage the aluminum and will evaporate before they could ever damage anything anyways. Just make sure to re-lube when you are done and everything will be fine. Again, don't over think this stuff!



Marvel Mystery Oil contains about 25% Mineral Spirits.
 
I was looking at all the lubricants I have at my place and was wondering if anyone has ever tried Schaeffers Penetro. (I have a half dozen new cans left in a case.)It has good penetrating ability, but is probably the best spray lube I have ever used and is a very good rust inhibitor as well. I think it cost me about $6 a can.
 
Originally Posted By: bmwtechguy
I was looking at all the lubricants I have at my place and was wondering if anyone has ever tried Schaeffers Penetro. (I have a half dozen new cans left in a case.)It has good penetrating ability, but is probably the best spray lube I have ever used and is a very good rust inhibitor as well. I think it cost me about $6 a can.


I would bet that this and Kroil would both work well.
 
I am going to try the Penetro-90 spray since I have nothing else on hand except WD-40 and Amsoil MP. I had a firing pin stick in cold weather up north after using WD-40 on it and not firing the rifle for a good long while before taking it out hunting one day. Missed a good chance at a deer and learned a lesson. I have been away from guns and hunting for so long that I can't remember what my dad and I used instead of the WD-40, but I remember it had a peculiar (but pleasant to me) smell....sorta reminded me of cinnamon egg nog!

I like that the Penetro works as a penetrating oil, yet is a really stout lube and doesn't just evaporate to almost nothing like the MP and the WD-40.
 
What's all this blasphemy about hoppes #9 stinking? If they made a. Cologne I would wear it!!!

To op I use hoppes 9 for all my guns in and out. Pistols and crude parts soak in eds red then cleaned with #9.

I use gun butter as lube.
 
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