AutoRX_Patience w/new leak_keep Filters coming?

[Oilgal]

Originally Posted By: cha41ppy
I believe the toast filter and toast oil is more a product of the 1mz-fe engine than it is the ARX. I've noticed even on a shortened interval that my filter was loaded with black gunk (99 es300).
I'd guess that it may be due to the higher than normal temps generated secondary to the need to conform to emissions standards as has been stated before. This makes the engine prone to leaving deposits no matter what - hence the reason why so many had the sludge issue, good maintenance or not. Go ahead and cut up old filters if you have them, they will be loaded.

Just another reason to follow up with a maintenance dose of ARX, GrIII+ synth and no > 7500 intervals unless validated by UOA. I don't think I could ever sleep well past 5000 mi personally.


I had cut open filters before I tried ARX though, and they were nothing like my ARX clean and rinse filters. That first ARX rinse oil I drained out, was also unlike any oil, that came out of any engine, that I have ever had. ARX is definitely cleaning carbon grit that had been baked on in there. I am seeing it in the oil and filters for the first time.

I am doing a second ARX treatment right now.

 

[caddis]

Thanks for the input guys/gals. Since the valve cover leak started , I've continued thru and completed the 2nd rinse phase. During this phase I've developed a very pronounced leaky oil pan.

So, with the end of 2nd treatment/rinse phase, I dropped the oil pan to replace seal and to inspect. No significant sludge here at all, considering all the filters and accumulated sludge I found after cutting the filters open as previous reported.

There is significant varnish, and some darker, thin layered deposits up top and around the pickup screen area (not in pan, pan came out clean as a whistle). This material does wipe off with a bit of pressure from the rag I tested with.

Seems that as I'm still considering the 3rd treatment cycle that I believe Gary was suggesting, that I should just leave this for clean up on its own w/the A-Rx??

Also, the valve cover leak appears to have subsided notably, so I'll continue to monitor it.

Quick question on the oil pan I just pulled off this afternoon. I purchased a NAPA cork gasket, and was wondering if I need to fill the oil pan 'channels betweeen bolt holes w/gasket some of the silicone type gasket material I cleaned out after dropping pan. Apparently the factory seal was strictly a bead of this grey colored silicone all around. It seems to me that even with the replacement cork gasket I should probably have those channels stamped into the pan filled up with sealer as well.....please advise. Thanks Greg. Oh, and yes, the caddis hatch is underway!

 

[Steve S]

I don't know for sure but there may be better choices than cork gaskets. When I was into building Chevy engines there were Felpro silicone type material formed gaskets that were expensive compared to the cork material though they did not leak and were reusable.

 

[c3po]

I have done this on my oil pan, transmission pan, and valve cover gaskets and never had any leaks afterwards. This what I did, I got some RTV Silicone and ran a bead of it between the transmission case and pan, also around the oil pan where the pan meets the block, same thing for the valve cover gaskets, the trick is after you have put it on you need too let the vehicle sit for 18 to 24 hours to let the RTV Silicone fully cure, I know this may sound like old school or shadetree mechanic but it works with hte RTV fully around where the oil pan, valve covers meet the engine the oil has no where to escape please make sure you have a good PCV, same thing with hte trans pan, its kind of like you are totally sealing things up.

 

[caddis]

Thanks, I went the RTV route just as you described. Apparently it was good enough w/RTV silicone only from the factory. I'm going to let it cure the full 24 hours and add the oil tomorrow. Lasted 146k miles from factory on the silicone alone, and then the Auto Rx got in there and cleaned a lot of sludge for me.... and then, well it was leak number two.

This car has never consumed more than 8-10oz of oil during the course of 3500mi OCIs. Then along comes the auto Rx and bang, two critical leaks, oil pouring out pan and valve covers. I've never been so 'thrilled' with a leaky engine! Thanks to all the testimonials, and guidance I've read for users here, I didn't panick.

As I mentioned, this engine was puking up filters full of sludge every 7-800 miles or so for a while there, so seeing this cleaned up pan was indeed a positive. I'm quite certain I've cleaned out most of the sludge throughout, but given this 1MZ engines track record out there, I'm leaning toward the third treatment cycle.

Any opinions? Would this engine be a candidate for a 2 bottle third and final treatment(just received my second 7 bottle order, as I'm treating 4 vehicles now), or would those last stubborn deposits be equally managed with the std 1 bottle treatment?

 

[Gary Allan]

Hmm.. I dunno

If you've just got a few stubborn spots ..then I think I just go to the maintenance dose. I guess one more single bottle treatment would assure that you're done with existing deposits. Much on what you mean by "those last stubborn deposits"